Hackett Jacket and Steve McQueen

When viewing the Hackett AW18 collection some weeks ago I was struck by this check jacket, I felt I'd seen it before - and I had - see the image below. A remarkable, and as far as I know unintentional, similarity in design and colour. 

The jacket will be released over the coming weeks as Hackett's Autumn/Winter collection is released. Buy one for that King of Cool look. Keep an eye out here: Hackett.

This post is unsponsored. 

Books: ICON: History of the Series Land Rover & Defender

As the proud owner of a newly restored 1967 Series 2a Land Rover (image below) I'm always on the look out for books that inform and allow me to indulge my motor passion. ICON: The Official History of the Series Land Rover and Defender is not only an informative and well illustrated book, it's also beautifully designed.

Released last year to celebrate the last Defender rolling off the assembly line and this year's 70th anniversary of the marque, it's published by Land Rover as a proud homage to these iconic and very British cars. This coffee table sized book covers ten chapters and over 200 pages and can be bought from Land Rover here.

My 1967 Series 2a Land Rover Station Wagon

Exploring Bespoke 8: Forward Fitting and Finale by Brita Hirsch Tailor

This is the finale of the 8 part series by Brita Hirsch exploring bespoke tailoring. We hope that this has clarified what is true bespoke tailoring, so that those wanting to commission a garment can fully understand the extent of the work involved and how this differs from made to measure and off the peg.

Inspiration and result - see earlier parts of the series for the full story of this Norfolk jacket

Brita Hirsch writes: The forward fitting is the moment of truth for the cutter in charge of the fit, which should be nearing perfection at this point in time. A final opportunity to fine tune things like the fall of the sleeves, balance of the collar and roll of the lapel. This is also the time to discuss finer detail like choice of buttons and any special requirements, be it flower loops or monograms. Following this final meeting, all work is done for the cutter as well as the customer, who can now relax, sit back and look forward to the finished article.

With Brita Hirsch at a fitting

The finishing process with all the meticulous hand detailing is the skilled tailor’s responsibility - and their opportunity to shine. This is when the suit or coat truly comes into its own, different from any other garment out there, and truly a unique creation. Setting the sleeves, with cloth pattern lines matching both horizontally and vertically and the length just right (try that!), defining the final positions of button holes and angle of the collar - this is when a keen eye for meticulous detail and proportion comes into play.

An important and final part of the bespoke process is a well-yielded pressing iron: around a third of the overall time spent making the garment is dedicated to pressing the cloth in its various stages, but the finale is an intimate affair between the coat and its creator: shaping and smoothing the garment, the tailor will spend the time it takes until it is the best it can be.

The bespoke process is a journey, a piece of personal history created together. It takes weeks, often months to create that special garment, which is made to last - and delight - a lifetime. Patience is paramount to achieve a truly spectacular result: never rush your tailor, but enjoy the journey.

Grey Fox writes: At the conclusion of this series I'd like to thank Brita Hirsch and all who helped us (their links are below). It was an absolute delight working with Brita, whose tailoring skills are truly exceptional, and a privilege to have my Norfolk jacket tailored by her. It's a creation of great skill and a joy to wear. 

If you haven't taken the plunge into bespoke I can only urge you to do so. In my experience a bespoke garment is always way ahead of made to measure in terms of fit and comfort; but then it should be and no tailor would claim otherwise. Brita has shown us the immense amount of work that goes into a piece and this shows in the finished product.

For other features in the Exploring Bespoke series here on the blog, click here.

Links:

Brita Hirsch of Hirsch Tailoring

The Savile Row Association Standards and Bespoke Process

Adamley Textiles

Harris Tweed Hebrides

The Harris Tweed Authority

My trip to Harris Tweed: A Journey to the Heart of the Hebrides

With thanks to photographer Fiona Bailey whose images appear throughout this project.

The final product, my bespoke Harris tweed Norfolk coat by Brita Hirsh

Hotter Shoes: Cooler Shoes?

Hotter Shoes manufacture here in England and thereby justifiably deserve our attention. Earlier this year I travelled to their factory to see the shoes being made and their autumn/winter collection. Set up in 1959, Hotter made over 2.2 million pairs of shoes last year which puts them in the league of major British manufacturers, providing employment and skills in and around their Lancashire base.

Wearing Hotter Garner boots from AW18

As shown in my images below, the shoe manufacturing process is technologically advanced, with a pair being made every 20 seconds. The shoe uppers are steamed to help them as they're eased onto lasts. A robot 'roughing machine' then scores a computer-controlled line around the upper to prepare it for the application of the soles. This process happens on a circular machine which injects polyurethane into moulds to add the soles to the uppers. The shoes are then trimmed, finished and checked before being packed for despatch.

The green lasts onto which the uppers are attached before the soles

Focusing on comfort rather than style is never going to endear a brand to the sartorialists and style aficionados. However, I'm getting to the age when I welcome a blend of style and comfort. I've been wearing a selection of their shoes and comfortable they certainly are. Many of them are also stylish, but not being branded with expensive logos and fashion names are not going to grab the attention of the slaves to fashion. I've been wearing a pair of black Garner boots which, with their square toe and comfortable uppers, add a touch of style to a formal or casual look. I also wear a pair of their walking shoes for walking my dog Harry (no longer made, but similar can be found here and which are water resistant and comfortable).

I suggest you inspect their range for yourself: don't listen to the fashionistas and make up your own mind as stylish and comfortable shoes are certainly to be found at Hotter.

I was a guest at the Hotter factory and have been sent a couple of pairs of shoes to review.

British Boxers Underwear, Sleepwear and a Massive Discount for Readers!

It's been too long since I first reported on what was then a new and small British underwear business, British Boxers. It has now, through sheer hard work by founder Deborah Price, become a successful British business. Making boxer shorts, stretch trunks (of which I'm a great fan) and sleepwear (there are products for both men and women - I wear the stripy pyjamas) here in the UK and in Europe, it now supplies Harrods, many independent stores and exports abroad.

See below for the generous discount offered to Grey Fox Blog readers.

Needless to say, the products are beautifully made and much thought has obviously gone into their design.

Deborah Price brought me up to date:

"We make the traditional boxer shorts, socks and polo shirts in the UK. All the packaging is made here too, Our labels and trims are made here including our waistband on the trunks. We do whatever we can here whilst maintaining quality and production capacity.

Everything else is made in small production runs in Europe and I'm really proud to shout about that now too. We don't manufacture in the Far East and everyone who makes our stuff is highly skilled and well paid. It's really important. We'll build up British production gradually and slowly but it takes time, investment and education. What I'm really passionate about is building a viable ethical business which creates British jobs".

I'm grateful to British Boxers for offering a generous discount to blog readers. Use the code GREYFOX25 to get 25% off at british-boxers.com

This feature is unsponsored. I was sent some shorts for review.