Chester Barrie Autumn/Winter 2018

Chester Barrie have over the years produced real sartorial gems and their AW18 collection, created under the direction of Simon Kirby, is no exception. While at first sight very classic in appearance, there are little twists that add interest without causing too much concern to those gentlemen who prefer their style to be low key but high quality - subtlety is the word.

Blues, greys and burgundy prevail and the addition of roll neck knitwear and a chambray shirt add very contemporary touches to the crisply classic collection. A mixture of Italian and British cloths give a quality feel to the well-tailored shapes. 

Altogether this is a versatile and stylish collection that will be beautifully made and carefully styled to work together to give an understated and elegant appearance. A collection of accessories, ties, umbrellas and brief cases, adds to the overall British look. See Chester Barrie.

For those who, like me, like to know these things, The Chester Barrie photoshoot was at The Ardkinglas Estate, Loch Fyne, Scotland.

This feature is unsponsored. 

What do Women Find Attractive in an Older Man? Louise Proddow of Rejuvage Tells Us All

We dress well for many reasons. We may just enjoy good quality clothes, we may find that looking our best helps us in business, boosting confidence and giving an impression of competence and reliability. But one of the greatest pleasures is to be complimented by a woman, whether she be a close friend, stranger or work colleague. 

I recently met Louise Proddow of Rejuvage (link below) and, having discussed this, we decided to write a piece for each other's blogs on what each of us found attractive about the opposite sex in terms of style. Here Louise shares her guide to 'midlife men style turn-ons' as she termed it.  

Louise Proddow writes: 

As a midlife wellness advocate with a deep passion for health and positive ageing, for me, the hallmark of good style comes from a holistic approach. What makes a man stylish and attractive at every age goes beyond simply the clothes they put on in the morning. Style is a mixture of how you look after yourself, what you wear and your attitude. It’s doesn’t matter if you look good in clothes if you hide your body in the beach or in the bedroom, for me its all about balance. 

Style begins on the inside out 

A good diet full of unprocessed foods and regular exercise is not only good for the body, but it is good for style. It gives skin that healthy glow, promotes wellbeing and clothes fit better on toned bodies. The trim and healthy man beats a middle-aged potbelly and ruddy complexion any day. 

Louise (top left) and some of her midlife male turn-ons

Classics with a modern twist 

Some well-cut clothes with a twist shows personality. Mix up investment pieces and quality fabrics with some high street purchases such as a well cut blue or grey suit with a t-shirt and some smart trainers. In hot weather, lightweight tailoring in breathable natural fabrics is a must too. I am also a big fan of the Gareth Southgate waistcoat trend – it’s a great look for holding it all it in too! 

Have a relaxed approach to dressing 

Mix it up your styles - rugged to smooth, something old with something new. A relaxed attitude dressing oozes confidence, which is always attractive. Show a bit ankle with some slip-on shoes and hidden socks or leave your shirt un-tucked - for me, stylish comfort over stuffy formality wins. Avoid buying a completely new outfit, especially on a date as it oozes trying too hard. 

Casual grooming

Over tanned, over hair dyed, over waxed – over grooming is a no go and definitely a turn-off. Having said that, clean is the new dirty; I like a man to smell nice in a Tom Ford kind of way with clean fingernails and hydrated skin. 

The power of individuality

A man with his own personal style and twinkle in eye always attracts my attention. There is no reason to be dull in middle age so let your clothes do the talking. Whether you’re creative and outgoing, a city type or a country gent there are an endless array of looks, colours, fabrics, styles. It’s time to replace those old faded jumpers with some personality. 

Embrace the grey 

It’s the George Clooney effect! Embrace the grey, tap into your inner silver fox. Hair is optional, but if you have it definitely ditch the dye! 

There is an old saying that we become invisible in middle age, that’s not the case for men or women today. Wear whatever you want at any age, make a bit of an effort, but do not over do it. Look after yourself, throw in a few classics like a crisp shirt and clean-cut suit, add a bit of personality and embrace your own style. Look after yourself inside out for ageless style. 

You only have to look on dating websites or walk down the street to see that those with style stand out. Plus if you can make us laugh to then you're on to a winner! 

NOTE: With many thanks to Louise Proddow who curates Rejuvage, a blog about ageing with style and health. You can read my return article, 'In Praise of Older Women', here.

Holiday Dressing and a Styling Offer from Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab

I'm grateful to Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab for this seasonal advice and her special offer to Grey Fox Blog readers (see link and details below):

The holiday season is well under way, but for many, even though the shops are filling with autumn/winter wear, the question remains: what to wear on holiday? It’s traditionally thought that British men are terrible at dressing on holiday; think white legs with a blue tinge, knotted hankies and socks with sandals. Yep that was my grandad at Winchelsea beach. Occasionally he’d go crazy and take his socks and sandals off and roll up his trousers to sit in his deckchair. If only I could find that photo to show you. 

Thankfully, the majority of men have moved way beyond this, what with travel becoming so much easier and global warming hotting up the UK summers. But it can still be a little tricky to dress for holidays as you get older – I don’t know but you but I prefer to show a little less flesh and find things that are closer fitting but not tight are the most flattering. So Grey Fox has kindly let me take over his blog for this post and I’ve put together a little holiday guide with some suggested items for holiday looks:

Polo shirts

Hamilton & Hare polo shirt (L) Derek Rose pique polo shirt (R)

I tend to find most of my older clients prefer to wear some sort of collar so a polo shirt is preferable to a t-shirt. This could be because the neck becomes a little less taught and a little more lined as we age or perhaps it’s because it gives a focus to take away from a less than trim waistline – either way a polo shirt is the most popular choice. 

You can’t go far wrong with a white polo which will go with everything and the striped navy and white one from Hamilton & Hare is like your go to blue and white striped shirt for work – failsafe and the narrow stripes add some texture if you don’t want to go for completely plain.

Shirts

Realm & Empire (L) Budd casual linen shirt (R)

Currently I love the camp (or Cuban) collar shirts around. This style is usually a boxy cut so flattering for those of a stocky build and great if you have a short or wide neck as it opens up this area with the v shape and the lower collar. Designed to be worn outside your trousers or shorts they have a straight hem and are a little shorter. Perfect for summer and if it gets a little cooler in the evening they look great layered over a short sleeved white t-shirt too. 

Alternatively, if you don’t mind the crumples, the linen shirt is a favourite of Grey Fox and a classic for summer style. Either go for long sleeves and roll them up or short sleeves though I’d suggest if wearing short sleeves and you’re a slim build that you go for something a little more fitted so the sleeves aren’t flapping around on you. As an alternative to the classic white or light blue, try navy and contrast it with lighter coloured shorts or trousers. 

Shorts and trousers

Universal Works (L) Timothy Everest washed linen trousers (R)

If you have slim legs then wear your shorts in a slimmer cut so you don’t look like you’ve escaped from dad’s army! Or for a wider cut to fit chunky thighs try Universal Works (see above) or Drakes. Just above the knee is the best length to go for regardless of height.

For trousers and shorts try lightweight cotton, linen or if you prefer a crisper style then seersucker. Navy and khaki are default colours to go with everything or if you fancy trying something a bit more out there, like an ice cream shade then a washed in muted tone will be easier to wear than a bright pastel. The brick colour of the Timothy Everest ones above will be great to break up all your blues and whites.

Swimwear

Hemingsworth swim shorts

After a conversation with my friend and her husband, where she was begging him to get some new swim shorts so he didn’t embarrass her and their teenage daughter on the beach, I’d say it’s pretty essential not to drag the same old faded swim shorts out again year after year! I really like the more tailored styles that are appearing and this is the ideal time to add some colour to your wardrobe as you don’t have to think what it’ll match with other than your skin tone. Choose from a small range of British made tailored fit swim shorts at Hemingsworth.

Shoes

Top left clockwise: Swims loafers Clarks Anderson & Shepherd

This is where many of my clients struggle. Many aren’t keen on wearing open toes so here are my suggestions of alternatives.

Espadrilles – you could go for cotton for but if you fancy something a bit more plush to wear for evening then these suede Anderson and Shepherd ones certainly fit the bill. I’d advise spraying the suede with a protector first and then if you need to freshen them up, steam them over the kettle and brush with your hand or a soft suede brush. 

Deck shoes – a great summer staple to have, go for classic tan, brown or navy. Choose a slimmer sole to flatter skinny legs or something more substantial if you’re a large guy.

Swims – If only my grandad had known about these, he could have gone for a paddle without taking his shoes off, as they’re made of neoprene and are very lightweight and quick drying!

Luggage

Tusting wheeled holdall

And of course, you’ll need a fabulous bag to put it all in like this one from Tusting.

Finally, a special offer: Would you like to go shopping for a holiday wardrobe? Sarah would love to offer a 20% discount to Grey Fox readers! If you’d like to do a Half Day personal shopping trip in August, the price will be just £272 instead of the normal £340. Please get in touch to book in or for more information! This offer expires on Friday 10th August 2018.

Link: Sartoria Lab

British Cool: UK-made Menswear for the Heatwave

In the hottest heatwave since the late seventies here in the UK it can be difficult to find something a little more stylish to wear than a t-shirt and shorts. I thought I'd suggest a UK-made outfit that will bring British cool to your summer wardrobe.

Don't forget the sunglasses; nothing makes you cooler. Kirk Originals are made in England in many styles and at two main price points. My favourites are these tortoiseshell Harveys:

Kirk Originals Harvey sunglasses £425

I love linen's crumpled look. While not popular with some, its relaxed look is perfect for the hotter days of summer and its loose weave helps you lose heat and stay cool (Flax London shirt and Sirplus trousers below). Otherwise the cotton of the Private White V.C. Desert jacket and the Sirplus shorts will keep the temperature in check. Crockett & Jones's loafers are of lightweight unlined suede and the Panama hat from Laird Hatters will keep the sun off. A trouser/shorts option is added for those with strong preferences either way.

I've selected a variety of co-ordinating colours that won't make you look too tropical/military or like Indiana Jones in all shades of khaki (although that can be a good look too). 

Hat from Laird Hatters Alfred Panama £155

Private White V.C. Desert Jacket in warm sky £279

Short sleeved shirt from Flax London £95
All made in the UK

Sirplus oatmeal linen trousers and shorts £145 and £75

Crockett & Jones Teign unlined suede loafer in dark brown or navy £340

All made in the UK

Note: This is an unsponsored post and the only product I've tried is the Panama hat, although all are from suppliers I know. If you purchase any of these items, please mention Grey Fox Blog.

Finding the Ideal Pair of Chinos - Susannah Hall Tailors

There's something wrong with trousers nowadays. I've been looking for the ideal chinos for summer, but almost without exception the choices are all too tight, particularly in the lower leg (and I'm quite slim) and too low in the waist. Too many trousers have become uncomfortable and impractical; unable even to retain a shirt tail. 

This problem of poor fit is universal on our high streets, which cling to a dated view that style requires skinny fits and mean tailoring. I was bemoaning this recently with tailor Susannah Hall (link below), who offered to take up the challenge and make me a pair that I'd like. My requirements were for lightweight cotton from a British mill, a fairly high waist with pleats, side adjusters, a loose cut tapering to 2" turn-ups -  what I hoped would add up to comfort and style together.

Chinos tailored by Susannah Hall

The result exceeded my expectations. The chinos (from Dormeuil Naturals bunch cotton/elastane cloth) are comfortable and stylish. I've been wearing them a lot in the warmth of summer, but they will be suitable for at least three-season wear. Susannah Hall interpreted my needs precisely and I'm very pleased with the result - and, what's more, they are tailored in the UK. From £380 from Susannah Hall Tailor.

So, if you can, have your trousers tailored for the perfect style and fit. For those looking for something even more affordable, I'll look at an off-the-peg alternative in my next feature.

Casual Style: A New Approach?

I'm aware that my style has become quite tailored of late. Some readers have kindly contacted me to point this out, but I'd already been pondering this gradual development for some time. Usually I dress casually: linen shirts, chinos and loafers in summer, knitwear and jeans in winter. When I go out I tend to 'dress up' and it's then that I'm photographed in suit or blazer with shirt and tie. The perception of my style doesn't quite match the reality, so I need to change the perception by exploring more casual styles here on the blog. 

Smart or casual? On left I'm wearing New & Lingwood, image Tom Edwards. On right image Nick Maroudias

Casual wear is too often interpreted as shapeless sportswear and ill-fitting, battered old clothes that double as gardening wear. There's a mistaken view that style and comfort can't coincide. However, comfort is about fit, construction and materials. Linens, soft cottons and unstructured cuts allow cool relaxation in the summer while tactile knitwear, tweeds and faded cottons give warmth in winter months. Shirts are worn tieless, looser and with soft collars; trousers less restricting, outerwear less tailored and softer in outline.

Cotton twill jacket Yarmouth Oilskins. Linen shirt Flax London (links in text below)

Clothes for casual wear may lack the crispness and structure of formal clothing but can still look dapper if they fit well and are of subtle hues and pattern. I hope to find clothes that fit these requirements over the next few months. My search for style continues; taking a slight diversion into smart/casual. In the image above I wear two brands new to me (both manufacturing in the UK), Flax London, who make slightly heavier-weight linen shirts and Yarmouth Oilskins, not a new company, but one reviving itself with British cotton twill workwear. I will bring you more on these brands soon.

As ever, I'm keen to hear from other brands who can help me in this search for casual style. Please get in touch. 

Readers, please let me have your thoughts. Do you take the smart/dapper/tailored approach, is your style more relaxed, or do you balance both? Do you have favourite brands or styles? Please comment here, or message me on Instagram or by e-mail.

The Search for Style : Why Do Older Men Give up on Style?

Here are more interesting thoughts from blog reader, David G about style:

"I enjoyed the latest in your search for style. A colleague about 10 years younger than me told me yesterday how much he admired my style; but at the same time he said it makes him realize how he’s “given up” on his own style. That was a revelation to me, David. It’s not that he doesn’t want to be stylish, but in his head he feels that his wife, family, and friends “don’t care” so what’s the point? 

Older men and style at Pitti Uomo June 2018

I told him he might be surprised, and I reminded him that my transformation was rather sudden. As I told you, I felt self-conscious about it for a few days, but after a few days everyone got used to the “new” me. And I get many compliments from my colleagues, which in turn make me feel more confident and happy with my style journey. If only men like my colleague would realize this. The hardest part is just getting started, but once you make that decision to care about your appearance and gets easier by the day!

And my reply:

I've always assumed that many older men have given up but have never had that exact conversation with someone who's admitted it, so it's interesting to hear that it does seem to be the case in some instances. I think that they get to an age where they have the family/career/partner/children or whatever and feel there's nothing that justifies looking stylish. They may also be unsure about how to dress well without being thought to be trying too hard. 

If menswear companies sold direct to the older man, by using older models, I'm sure that many older men would remain interested in style and more of those that aren't could be tempted out of their complacency/lack of confidence/interest or whatever. 

I agree there is a hurdle to get over at first. It gets easier - in fact I sometimes have to hold myself back slightly - I think it's possible to slide into dandyism. I don't want to stand out on how I dress by being too extrovert. Quiet stylishness is what I try to achieve.

I'm receiving so many comments from readers - many thanks. All influence what I think and write here on the blog about The Search for Style, so please keep in touch by commenting here or through my e-mail.

Follow The Search for Style series here.

The Royal Wedding: Dress Code and The Best Dressed Man

The dress code for the wedding of Meghan Markle and Prince Harry was 'Dress Uniform, Morning Coat or Lounge Suit' and this seemed to be properly observed. I didn't myself notice any men in breach of this. The groom himself wore the dress uniform of his regiment, The Blues and Royals, while male guests wore lounge suits, various forms of morning dress or their military uniforms. As is right, despite their splendour they were unable to eclipse the outfits of the women, which dazzled in their variety, colour and design.

The wedding invitation. The dress code is bottom right

Three of the most discussed men's outfits are shown below; those of Prince Charles, George Clooney and David Beckham. Prince Charles wears a beautifully made Savile Row morning suit, GC a pale grey lounge suit and DB a darker grey morning suit (Dior Homme) with dove grey double-breasted waistcoat.

I discussed morning dress recently here on the blog (see here). What is not shown in my selection above is the traditional black morning coat with striped or check grey trousers. 

All in all I was impressed that so many men had made a real effort and most looked reasonably stylish. I felt slightly disappointed that many guests, like Clooney, opted for the duller option of lounge suit rather than the celebratory splendour of morning dress. The opportunity to go to another royal wedding won't arise now for many years. For me, the best dressed man was Prince Charles; the quality of his suit and the ease with which he wore it teaches many of us how to dress well.

But those are my personal views. What did you think?

PS: I meant to say that I noticed only one top hat and it was, understandably, on the head of milliner Stephen Jones.