Books: ICON: History of the Series Land Rover & Defender

As the proud owner of a newly restored 1967 Series 2a Land Rover (image below) I'm always on the look out for books that inform and allow me to indulge my motor passion. ICON: The Official History of the Series Land Rover and Defender is not only an informative and well illustrated book, it's also beautifully designed.

Released last year to celebrate the last Defender rolling off the assembly line and this year's 70th anniversary of the marque, it's published by Land Rover as a proud homage to these iconic and very British cars. This coffee table sized book covers ten chapters and over 200 pages and can be bought from Land Rover here.

My 1967 Series 2a Land Rover Station Wagon

Exploring Bespoke 8: Forward Fitting and Finale by Brita Hirsch Tailor

This is the finale of the 8 part series by Brita Hirsch exploring bespoke tailoring. We hope that this has clarified what is true bespoke tailoring, so that those wanting to commission a garment can fully understand the extent of the work involved and how this differs from made to measure and off the peg.

Inspiration and result - see earlier parts of the series for the full story of this Norfolk jacket

Brita Hirsch writes: The forward fitting is the moment of truth for the cutter in charge of the fit, which should be nearing perfection at this point in time. A final opportunity to fine tune things like the fall of the sleeves, balance of the collar and roll of the lapel. This is also the time to discuss finer detail like choice of buttons and any special requirements, be it flower loops or monograms. Following this final meeting, all work is done for the cutter as well as the customer, who can now relax, sit back and look forward to the finished article.

With Brita Hirsch at a fitting

The finishing process with all the meticulous hand detailing is the skilled tailor’s responsibility - and their opportunity to shine. This is when the suit or coat truly comes into its own, different from any other garment out there, and truly a unique creation. Setting the sleeves, with cloth pattern lines matching both horizontally and vertically and the length just right (try that!), defining the final positions of button holes and angle of the collar - this is when a keen eye for meticulous detail and proportion comes into play.

An important and final part of the bespoke process is a well-yielded pressing iron: around a third of the overall time spent making the garment is dedicated to pressing the cloth in its various stages, but the finale is an intimate affair between the coat and its creator: shaping and smoothing the garment, the tailor will spend the time it takes until it is the best it can be.

The bespoke process is a journey, a piece of personal history created together. It takes weeks, often months to create that special garment, which is made to last - and delight - a lifetime. Patience is paramount to achieve a truly spectacular result: never rush your tailor, but enjoy the journey.

Grey Fox writes: At the conclusion of this series I'd like to thank Brita Hirsch and all who helped us (their links are below). It was an absolute delight working with Brita, whose tailoring skills are truly exceptional, and a privilege to have my Norfolk jacket tailored by her. It's a creation of great skill and a joy to wear. 

If you haven't taken the plunge into bespoke I can only urge you to do so. In my experience a bespoke garment is always way ahead of made to measure in terms of fit and comfort; but then it should be and no tailor would claim otherwise. Brita has shown us the immense amount of work that goes into a piece and this shows in the finished product.

For other features in the Exploring Bespoke series here on the blog, click here.

Links:

Brita Hirsch of Hirsch Tailoring

The Savile Row Association Standards and Bespoke Process

Adamley Textiles

Harris Tweed Hebrides

The Harris Tweed Authority

My trip to Harris Tweed: A Journey to the Heart of the Hebrides

With thanks to photographer Fiona Bailey whose images appear throughout this project.

The final product, my bespoke Harris tweed Norfolk coat by Brita Hirsh

Hotter Shoes: Cooler Shoes?

Hotter Shoes manufacture here in England and thereby justifiably deserve our attention. Earlier this year I travelled to their factory to see the shoes being made and their autumn/winter collection. Set up in 1959, Hotter made over 2.2 million pairs of shoes last year which puts them in the league of major British manufacturers, providing employment and skills in and around their Lancashire base.

Wearing Hotter Garner boots from AW18

As shown in my images below, the shoe manufacturing process is technologically advanced, with a pair being made every 20 seconds. The shoe uppers are steamed to help them as they're eased onto lasts. A robot 'roughing machine' then scores a computer-controlled line around the upper to prepare it for the application of the soles. This process happens on a circular machine which injects polyurethane into moulds to add the soles to the uppers. The shoes are then trimmed, finished and checked before being packed for despatch.

The green lasts onto which the uppers are attached before the soles

Focusing on comfort rather than style is never going to endear a brand to the sartorialists and style aficionados. However, I'm getting to the age when I welcome a blend of style and comfort. I've been wearing a selection of their shoes and comfortable they certainly are. Many of them are also stylish, but not being branded with expensive logos and fashion names are not going to grab the attention of the slaves to fashion. I've been wearing a pair of black Garner boots which, with their square toe and comfortable uppers, add a touch of style to a formal or casual look. I also wear a pair of their walking shoes for walking my dog Harry (no longer made, but similar can be found here and which are water resistant and comfortable).

I suggest you inspect their range for yourself: don't listen to the fashionistas and make up your own mind as stylish and comfortable shoes are certainly to be found at Hotter.

I was a guest at the Hotter factory and have been sent a couple of pairs of shoes to review.

Araminta Campbell: Bespoke Tweeds

On my recent visit to Edinburgh I spent some time at Araminta Campbell's studio where she designs tweeds and other fabrics and weaves bespoke articles from luxury yarns. This young entrepreneur has already built up a following of estates requiring tweeds to be designed or revived and of clients wanting interiors fabrics and quality hand woven accessories.

Araminta designs limited edition accessories which are handwoven on two beautiful looms in her Leith studio. This, her Signature range, are works of art in themselves and are made from undyed British alpaca fleece (there are some 345,000 alpacas in the UK). Each takes several days to weave on one of the 60 year old dobby looms (see top image above) and the complex patterns are inspired, like much of Araminta's work, by the patterns of nature. In another range, Minta, she uses alpaca for interiors fabrics.

The above three images show the alpaca designs and the weaving process (images Grey Fox)

I was particularly interested in her Heritage tweed design service. Many Scottish estates have used bespoke tweed designs since the nineteenth century. Worn on the estate, they provide protection against the weather when working outside, whether farming, stalking or shooting. The colours reflect the landscape, giving camouflage as they blend with the rocks, trees and heather. 

In her Heritage service, Araminta has found a successful niche designing tweeds for individuals, estates and businesses. She told me, "Many of my clients have a landscape that is special to them, or a piece of family history they wish to commemorate. I love the challenge of capturing this in cloth – through the textures, shapes and colours – and creating a tweed with a story that really means something to them." 

She uses small Scottish mills for the weaving, working directly with yarn suppliers and finishers to ensure that colours are exactly right and that there is a high standard of quality in production and design. Such smaller mills are also flexible about minimums, so clients requiring smaller amounts of cloth can still have it made without having to pay the high costs incurred where mills require high minimum orders. This opens up exciting possibilities to those who wish to commission a bespoke cloth for family use, as a gift or for a small business.

Araminta has designed a few estate-type tweeds which are available to all (see above image). I'm the lucky owner of a few metres of the houndstooth tweed in the above image and will be having a coat made from that by tailor, Alice Burkitt. I'll report back on this here and on Instagram. The design is inspired by the colours of the River Tweed and is a gorgeous robust cloth which will make a perfect outdoor coat.

For more information about Araminta Campbell, see her website here.

Photo credits (unless otherwise stated above): Ciara Menzies Photography.

This feature is unsponsored. My visit to Edinburgh was a collaboration with several brands.

Loake 1880 Legacy Range: Comfort and Style

I own and wear several pairs of Loake shoes and they always seem popular with readers of this blog. The company has now launched a new range, Loake 1880 Legacy, which is designed to celebrate Loake's legacy as English shoemakers since three brothers; John, Thomas and William Loake, opened the first Loake factory in 1880.

Derwent black calf derbies from Loake Legacy range (details of outfit below)
[Image Nyetimber]

Combining traditional shoemaking techniques with high quality materials, the range is made in Kettering and contains a number of classic derbies, oxfords, brogues, penny loafers, monk straps and Chelsea and chukka boots. They are Goodyear welted and made on a last engineered to provide increased instep support so that they can be worn all day. Vegetable tanned linings add to the comfort and they come with leather and rubber soles. Elegant and comfortable, they can be found in leather and suede in a variety of colours.

I mention my new shoes on Instagram

I've been wearing a pair of Derwent black calf derby with a brogued toecap. Elegantly shaped, they were immediately comfortable and are ideal for semi-formal or casual use, coming also in burnished conker. Priced at £240 to £270, they are available now at Loake shops and stockists. 

To celebrate the launch of their Loake 1880 Legacy Collection, customers purchasing a pair of shoes or boots from the Legacy range either in store or from the online shop this weekend will also receive an exclusive Golden Ticket! This will reveal a complimentary gift from the Loake range up to the value of £245, to be redeemed in store or by contacting Loake direct at their factory in Northamptonshire. Valid at participating retail outlets only. Please visit www.loake.co.uk/legacy to find out more. 

Details of my outfit above (image taken at the launch of Nyetimber 1086 prestige cuvee English made sparkling wine):
Velvet jacket: Favourbrook
Pocket square: Geoff Stocker
Trousers: Susannah Hall Tailor

This post is a collaboration with Loake.

Ettinger Capra Goat Leather Collection

Ettinger has launched Capra, its first goat leather collection for many decades. In the company's earlier days goatskin, known for its suppleness and durability, was used for various products which are still to be found in the Ettinger archive. The colour range was then limited, but now the Capra Collection comes in chocolate, black, marine blue and white. 

As mentioned in my previous blog feature here, I was in Florence earlier this year to help launch the Capra Collection and the photo above was taken of me with a chocolate Capra portfolio. I've also been using a white Capra card case since that time and found the goat leather to be durable and with a lovely texture to it. The white gives the product a nicely heritage feel, reminiscent of the thirties and forties. All are, of course, very well made at Ettinger's factory in Walsall in the English Midlands (see my previous feature, link above).

Available in a range of accessories, from the folio through wallets and purses to key rings, the Capra Collection can be found at various stockists or online at Ettinger here. 

This feature is part of a collaboration with Ettinger whose guest I was at Pitti Uomo. I was not paid for this piece.

Johnstons of Elgin Spring/Summer '19

I wasn't able to get to Johnstons of Elgin's SS19 Collection show at London Fashion Week recently. They showed some menswear among the women's collection. With designer Alan Scott they are showing how very light cashmere can be used for warm weather wear. Tissue weight cashmere and mesh construction and very fine cotton are created by Johnstons in Scotland. Sporty, colourful and beautifully constructed, they continue to produce the highest quality clothing using the latest techniques. 

I love what they're doing, but feel rather saddened that they are marketing to the younger man. Given the very classic and luxury feel to their collection they are missing out on the older, more sophisticated market. A year or two ago I saw their new and exciting designer approach as a possible British Brunello Cucinelli, whose clothes are so wearable by all ages. Johnstons seem to be taking a different direction now, but they're a British brand that I can't help but love and it's good to see them doing so well and with such confidence.  Johnstons of Elgin.

This is an unsponsored post.

Aston Martin Rapide S Hackett Edition

I attended a delicious dinner recently to mark the launch of Hackett's latest collaboration with Aston Martin - the Q Rapide S Hackett Edition. It's been styled by Hackett's Chair, Jeremy Hackett who, as a man of supreme taste, can be guaranteed to give a product a very British character. 

Jeremy Hackett with the car and the suit (see the text)

I sat in the car and was very impressed by the finish of both interior and exterior, as you'd expect in a hand-made car. There are many details which reflect Jeremy Hackett's tailoring credentials and his interests. The interior is upholstered in a Prince of Wales check from Somerset cloth mill, cloth mill Fox Brothers and Co. Inside the glove box, door pockets, cup holders and sun visor is a blue and white striped material, similar to that of a traditional suit lining. The gorgeous pale blue of the car is highlighted through the carpets and the head rests, with the Hackett logo embossed on the rear, are covered in black Melton wool cloth as used in bowler hats.

Hackett is creating a bespoke suit for each new owner that mirrors the car interiors; a Prince of Wales check cloth from Fox Brothers and Co. with a blue and white stripe lining. A luxury accessories range includes a Prince of Wales check weekend bag, check blanket, driving gloves and a pocket square with the Aston Martin scatter wing pattern. A travel umbrella features a gear stick handle and is made up of three pieces; evoking a James Bond gadget feel. You can read more about the collaboration here.

This feature is unsponsored. I was a guest of Hackett/Aston Martin at dinner at The Beaumont Hotel, Mayfair, London.

Kestin Hare: Scottish Menswear Designer

I'm just back from a long weekend in Edinburgh at the invitation of several brands and I'll be writing about some of them here on the blog over the coming days. My first feature is about menswear brand, Kestin Hare who I first came across some 4 years ago as he launched his own brand after a long career in menswear, including as Head of Design for Nigel Cabourn. 

Kestin Hare's Edinburgh store (image Kestin Hare - all other images Grey Fox)

Like Cabourn, Hare is a supporter of British manufacture. His clothes have a strong classic influence, but also draw on modern Japanese and European designs. When I visited recently they had just visited an archive of mountaineering clothes and equipment for inspiration, so the sources of their designs are wide-ranging. 

I saw Kestin Hare's Edinburgh store during my recent trip to that beautiful city. Located dockside in Leith in the old Cruiser Store in Custom Lane (see top image above), this is one of two shops, the other being in Shoreditch, London. There's also a strong online presence (link below). 

Trying on Kestin Hare coats and knitwear (trousers Susannah Hall and shoes Loake)

I tried on some of the clothes, like what I saw and will be wearing more. I often find that, once I've tried them on, I like clothes that I'm not immediately drawn to on the peg. The lesson is to experiment, whether or not you're feeling adventurous. 

I loved the corduroy store coat (image above) and British-made knitwear and coats based on Marton Mills wool and Brisbane Moss corduroy (both British manufacturers). These and garments made from thornproof cloth, Borg fleece and reversed Fair Isle knits in comfortable fits come in natural outdoor tones, reflecting the Highland bothy theme of the autumn/winter collection.

I've made it a mission to explore casual styles to move away from a very tailored look and Kestin Hare has provided inspiration with this - look out for more on my Instagram account.

You can find Kestin Hare's designs, many British-made, at Kestin Hare.

Billy Tannery x Crown Northampton Kid Leather Sneakers

I've been following Billy Tannery with interest since its launch last year. Using goat leather, a by-product of the food industry, they've made some beautiful bags, but have now collaborated with British sneaker makers, Crown Northampton, to make footwear. 

Their goat hides are sourced in the UK and are also tanned here, in Billy Tannery's own tannery. The environmentally friendly tanning technique combines traditional knowledge and modern leather technology, using natural ingredients such as vegetable and bark extract. All waste products are biodegradable and composted.

Crown Northampton, established in 1908, is based less than 25 miles from Billy Tannery’s home. Together, the two companies are releasing the limited edition kid leather Overstone Derby sneaker. The style is a Crown Northampton design, made exclusively in Billy Tannery leather in black, navy & chestnut and a choice of white or gum soles.

I've had a close look at a pair and hope to try some out soon. The leather is nicely grained, soft but strong and the insoles well-padded and comfortable. Each is made-to-order, with a pre-order price of £235.00 from www.billytannery.co.uk  

Crown Northampton

Globe-Trotter: A Factory Visit

For the classic days of travel (think ocean liners, flying boats and steam trains) a decent set of luggage was required. It had to look stylish and be of solid construction with a stout pair of leather straps to hold it all securely. The brand to go to was Globe-Trotter whose suitcases and bags were (and are) used by royalty, celebrity and commoner. 

Of course the need for high quality luggage still exists and while waiting for hours in overcrowded airports doesn't cut the romantic mustard any more, it adds a little pleasure to an often tiresome journey to have a good suitcase. I've been using a Globe-Trotter luggage for a few months and everywhere I go it gets admired by hotel porters, airline check-in personnel and fellow travellers.

Arriving at the Globe-Trotter factory in Hertfordshire

I'm delighted to be able to report on my recent visit to the Globetrotter factory in Hoddesdon, North London. Founded in Germany in 1897, the company moved to the UK in 1932. Over the years its products have been used by the likes of Captain Robert Falcon Scott, Sir Edmund Hilary and Sir Winston Churchill. HM the Queen Elizabeth used Globe-Trotter for her honeymoon luggage in 1947 and continues to use her cases to this day. It was even James Bond’s luggage of choice in the film ‘Spectre’.

A corner of the Globe-Trotter archive

So, how are these cases made? The main structure is made from a special fibreboard - several sheets of paper bonded together using a secret process that involves vulcanised rubber. This produces a material that matures and strengthens throughout the first few years of it life and is as strong and light as aluminium. The fibreboard is cut to shape using laser technology and then carefully moulded using heat to prevent it from cracking. Leather corners, soaked for several days to make them flexible, are added and the case is bonded and riveted together. Leather handles and straps are added, giving the finished product its classic yet timeless style.

Shaping the fibreboard

Leather corners drying

Much careful hand work goes into each case

The older technology still works - presses for leather corners

Stitching the leather handles

Machine for stitching leather

Each case is hand assembeld and carefully checked

One of the great attractions of Globe-Trotter luggage is the combinations of colours available. A rich green case might be given tan leather corners and straps, or, as in the recent RAF100 Collection, a riveted aluminium-like finish is enhanced with black leather corners and a grey and black striped RAF belt. In fact, you can order your own bespoke set of luggage and have all the pleasure of selecting your own favourite colour scheme.

In common with many other British factories, Globe-Trotter appreciates the value of older technologies. Many machines at the factory have been used for decades to stitch handles, press leather corners or cut the materials used to construct each case. New technologies are used where needed, but sometimes the benefits of beautifully engineered mechanical tools are so great that they are kept in use and lovingly maintained.

Linings are added to the cases and checks made to ensure that locks align and work properly. Seeing the amount of hand work and quality checking that goes into each item drove home to me how these are products that are made to last and, unlike lesser suitcases, will not be going into landfill after a couple of seasons battering in airports, car boots and hotel luggage stores.

For more information visit Globe-Trotter. 

Note: I was a guest of Globe-Trotter at their Hertfordshire factory. This is an unsponsored post. I am using some Globe-Trotter luggage and will report back on its use from time to time here and on Instagram.

The Globe-Trotter Land Rover