When reviewing the E Tautz AW15 show at London Collections:Men in January I described it as 'one of the most inspirational shows...' I loved the monochrome colours, British tweeds, knits, textures and generous cuts and styles so reminiscent of mid-twentieth century menswear.
I felt that this was a glimpse of what we'll see on the high street in a few years. My only reservation (nothing to do with the clothes) was that E Tautz used only young models in the show. I assume this fits with a vision of E Tautz as a brand for the young man, but these are clothes should be for all ages of men as they are so rooted in the classic. And why should young men have all the fun? So I decided to try them for myself.
Like most older men, I'm prone to sartorial caution and I approached these clothes with curiosity and nervousness. I knew I'd be outside my comfort zone with such styles, rooted in the forties and fifties, but as regulars will know, I am keen to push the boundaries in my search for brands and styles.
To my surprise, I loved them. The generously cut shapes are streets away from mean, modern slim fits which often leave the wearer looking as though they've grown out of their clothes. They are comfortable and stylish because they are different yet grounded in the classic styles our grandfathers wore. With regards to fit, they're more suited to the older man (and his diverse shapes) than contemporary styles. Whatever you may think of them, give them a try and, like me, you may be converted.
And the cherry on the cake is that these clothes are made in Britain, mostly in E Tautz's recently acquired factory in Blackburn. The fabrics feel luxurious and the construction solid. Prices are not outrageous for the quality, uniqueness, materials and British manufacture.
I was keen to ask Sarah Gilfillan, who's expertise at making men look stylish is unparalleled, to comment on the collection:
" Like David, when I saw the E.Tautz show I loved it. It was so refreshing and exciting to see a different silhouette coming through after years of "skinniness".When he asked me to be involved in the shoot though, I admit I had reservations. David is a naturally slim build and I thought perhaps it just wouldn't be flattering on him. But, I was pleasantly surprised!The shapes take a bit of adjusting to as they're so different from the super-slim cuts we've got used to and which have become the norm. We found it was important to get the fit on the waist and shoulders exactly right to avoid it looking as if the clothes were too big. Once we'd sized down on a couple of things, the cuts were so brilliant that we were all instantly converted!It won't be to everyone's taste, but give it a few years and I'm sure most men will be happy to go back to these more comfortable, roomy shapes. I'm now building a list in my head as to which of my clients I'll be taking into E Tautz this Autumn."
Many, many thanks to the wonderful people at E Tautz, Duke Street, London W1, who happily allowed us to raid their stock and disrupt their Friday afternoon for the shoot. Their support, suggestions and friendliness were generously given and much appreciated.
I'd like to thank my usual team, Nick Maroudias, photographer, who is a real pleasure to work with and Sarah Gilfillan who always gets the best out of clothes and wearer; you can use her personal styling services yourself at Sartoria Lab. We have loved working together on photo shoots to show how brands' products can be worn by the older man.
We are available for styling and shoots, so please get in touch if you'd like to open up your market to that huge and affluent demographic, the older man - greyfoxblog@gmail.com
We are available for styling and shoots, so please get in touch if you'd like to open up your market to that huge and affluent demographic, the older man - greyfoxblog@gmail.com
Links:
Clothes (details below): E Tautz
Sunglasses: (mine) Oliver Peoples
Belt: (borrowed) Charlie Borrow
Shoes: (mine) Joseph Cheaney & Sons
Socks: Scott-Nichol from Pantherella
Watch: (mine) vintage Smiths De Luxe
Thanks to David at Cirrus who's cut my hair for some 27 years. Tel. 020 8977 2379
Details of the E Tautz clothes (all made in the UK):
Double breasted charcoal herringbone suit: Jacket £595, trousers £425
Blue soft collar cotton overshirt: £270
Navy Harrington jacket, 100% cotton ventile: £650
Khaki field trousers: £189
Raw denim classic jean: £159
8-ply Icelandic roll neck: £595
White poplin slim-fit shirt: £160
Ottoman mid-blue wool and silk tie: £119
Some of the photos and looks are very Jeremy Corbyn.
ReplyDeleteYou are so on message GreyFox:)
Mike
Interesting. I was looking on E Tautz's website the other day, and couldn't really work out who their clothes were meant to appeal to. The brand, garments and tweedy fabrics seemed to hint at older styles, yet I couldn't quite tell if the blocky silhouettes were meant to be aggressively fashion forward (I think it's the model).
ReplyDeleteHowever I think it makes more sense to me the way you've styled it, and I can now see that they are actually 'vintage' cuts. Indeed you actually make it seem very wearable! (though I don't think anything will tempt me back into baggy jeans).
Thank you Tom. They are a highly stylish alternative to otherwise rather clone-like contemporary styles. It would take getting used to but I have a feeling that, while the styles look back, they also point a way forward for menswear styles which are arguably getting a bit stuck.
ReplyDeleteGF
Thank you Amsterdam Mike - you are hereby banned from the blog ;)
ReplyDeleteGF
Hi Greyfox,
ReplyDeleteSorry but I don't find these clothes appealing at all. I'm about your age and with the build of a racing snake. I do like slim fitting clothes (not skinny fit) I'm afraid these make you look like a schoolboy wearing his dad's clothes.
Regards
David
I agree with Mike. Your style is so much more relevant than on the website. Really like it!
ReplyDeleteAnnette | Lady of Style
Thank you, Lady of Style and welcome to the blog. I've been enjoying your blog and Instagram feed. I'm glad we've brought the clothes to life, that's down to Sarah Gilfillan who's a wizard personal stylist and to Nick the photographer.
ReplyDeleteThanks also for your comment, David. The great thing about fashion is that there is something for everyone. I knew this would be a controversial one - and that's good.
GF
Like the first set of photo's: Cairo 1938.
ReplyDeleteVery The English Patient.
.... If Jack Kerouac was a Londoner this is what he'd would worn, love the suits.
ReplyDeleteI can quite understand why these clothes are marketed at younger guys. When I was at university some 30 years ago they were exactly the sort of clothes my contemporaries and I would seek out from charity shops and jumble sales.I remember many of the items I had with great fondness. I really liked this post, some of the clothes I would not purchase whilst others,particularly the casual shirt I would certainly wear. The wheel of fashion is turning and skinny clothing is on the way out expect more shapes like this.
ReplyDeleteThis man looks fantastic :) Everything perfectly fitted, great matched and he is... breathe taking :)
ReplyDeleteWell Bags, thank you - the cynical side of me says you're after your bag business link appearing here and I'm vain enough to allow it just in case you meant your kind comment ;) :)
ReplyDeleteGF
Agree with Tom in his comment about the E Tautz website; as much as I want to like the clothing produced by a small British company (and I'm sure the quality can't be faulted), I really thought some of the styling looked faintly ridiculous. I also agree that they look better as you've styled them, but I'm still not convinced. Interesting that whenever I've seen Patrick Grant in the media (and he does come across as a very knowledgeable and talented chap) he seems to always be wearing what I would regard as very well fitting suits; I wonder if they do another series of that Sewing Bee programme if he'll be wearing some very baggy fits?
ReplyDeleteI've never been a fan of skinny or baggy trends though; what's wrong with clothing that simply fits without veering to far one way or the other?
On a side note, please keep up the good work David, enjoying the blog greatly!
Many thanks, Alex; I think your thoughts probably represent a majority at the moment.
ReplyDeleteThanks also for your kind comment on the blog.
GF
Much as I think the slim fit trend has gone too far (legs now too short, hips too low) I think slimmer clothes are much more flattering for your figure, GF.
ReplyDeleteThose khaki trousers drown you, if I may say. Suit looks great though.
Tautz is a brand I've never really understood, so what do I know!
Thanks as ever to the efforts of GF and friends in continuing to introduce us to interesting British made menswear, much of it a wonderful and refreshing antidote to the bland uniformity of so much contemporary menswear. I can only imagine the time and effort that goes into a post like this, so thank you. Personally, I would like to see these styles refined just a little bit further. The trousers, in particular, feel just a bit too much like historic dress to me. I would prefer something more along the lines of what Realm and Empire do (inspired by the past but reinterpreted with a contemporary twist). Whatever your personal view, though, it's great to have the choice and, without doubt, this is another producer to watch with interest. Thanks again.
ReplyDeleteI think you look absolutely great. They're a bold statement but like everything else, confidence and relaxation are the key.
ReplyDeleteLove the suit and khakis. Although I think a visit to the shop as opposed to online shopping is preferable just because of getting the fit right.
Gary Cooper lives on...
Thanks so much for the post and as ever, your blog is always a highlight of the week!
J
Thank you James and Simon, your comments are much appreciated. If anyone has any brands they'd like me to try (with the help of the photo shoot team, Nick and Sarah), do speak out or e-mail me.
ReplyDeleteGF
Love this, especially the fuller trouser with the safari-inspired shirt. That's a strong look. I know the brand but have never considered anything by them due to the price point, but nonetheless you nailed this. Probably my favourite shoot with yourself in it so far.
ReplyDeleteBuckets & Spades
I love those khaki trousers, they are indeed quite superb!
ReplyDeleteI love those baggy khaki trousers, quite superb!
ReplyDelete