Books: Chasing Time: Vintage Wristwatches by Alistair Gibbons

Alistair Gibbons is a longterm wristwatch collector. I recall coming across him some years ago when he curated a watch forum online and sold some mouthwatering timepieces. He's used his wide experience to place on record in this book, Chasing Time, some of the many watches he collected in the early 2000s. This was a time when watch collecting took off in a big way and there were some truly magnificent watches to be found. 

I recently had the chance to ask him about the book and his watch collecting career:

GF: Alistair you've recently published Chasing Time which contains images and descriptions of some mouthwatering vintage watches. How did you come to write this?

AG: Well I have always collected watches - always liked them. I was a visual effects editor working in London when the internet came online for businesses like mine who had early broadband. I became a member of several forums; On The Dash as a Heuer collector and Equation of Time Dive Forum. At the time these were the most comfortable places for me - great people sharing historic information about these old watches and having a lot of fun at the same time. 

I decided to set up a small website to sell watches I bought to fund a collection of watches I was interested in (this is maybe 2001) it became well known. I had good watchmakers making sure all of my watches were sold and guaranteed. Within a short time I could not load my watches fast enough. I developed racing straps for the Heuers which at the time were not available and military style straps for the more robust dive watches. 

The book is made from each file of each watch I serviced, researched, photographed and loaded for sale on my site. The book is basically a history of interesting chronographs, dive watches and military watches with good historical information, technical information and photographs that can be used as a guide for watch enthusiasts. In fact I am already being told the book is being used by dealers to compare to watches for sale as all of the watches are correct and have not been messed around with.

GF: I wanted to ask which are you favourite three watches - are they in the book?

AG: Yes they are although only 3 is tough can I make it 4 ? The Rolex Submariner 5508, the black IDF (Israeli Defence Force) Heuer Autavia, The Rolex GMT Master 1675 and the Wakmann Triple date. I know there are lots of very famous watches in there but remember when these watches were bought by me to restore they were not famous or well known. I like watches for the movements, their look and their history, not because they are an investment. I know I have included two obvious Rolexes, but those two in particular meant a lot to me.

GF: When we spoke recently we talked about why we like vintage watches. I see them as stylish and often beautiful objects which add to a person's style and personality. How do you see watches?

AG: Pretty much the same. I am not ‘an obsessive’ about watches. I have loved a watch even if it has had its hands changed in service or not on the correct bracelet etc Vintage watches are at a price level that the ordinary models of yesteryear are becoming beyond the wallet of your standard collector and I suppose I am partly to blame for that, so that is why I produced the book. 

It is more of a sales catalogue really, as all of the watch profiles are informative and full of points I think are relevant - as was my style when selling them online. It is probably fairly unique in that way. Like ’The Diary of a Watch Dealer’ kind of thing. I didn’t sell just the most expensive to get the best return, but the watches that made me happy and hopefully my customers too. 

Brands like Wakmann, LeJour, Yema, were hardly known and now are as collectable as old Breitlings, Heuers or Rolexes: all of these brands are in the book and include early divers worn by Jacque Cousteau's Dive team from Aquastar and Jenny.

Q4: How can Grey Fox Blog readers buy your book?

AG: The book is available on Amazon both in Europe and the US. Very reasonably priced between $25-$35. It contains 120 Cclassic watches, 30,000 words 500+ photographs. Here are links to some sale sites:

Amazon.co.uk

Amazon.com

Target,

Wallmart,

Barnes and Noble.

In Australia at Angus & Robertson

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Vertex M100B: a Stealthy Reprise of a Military-Inspired Watch

Last November, I mentioned the Vertex M100, a recreation of a watch that was produced by Vertex for the British military in 1944. The company itself had been revived by Don Cochrane, great grandson of the original founder of Vertex (in 1916), Claude Lyons. The watch, well-made and practical, is now available as a stealthy black version, the M100B.

The Vertex M100B is coated in DLC or Diamond Like Carbon, a form of carbon which is blasted onto the surface and then rapidly cooled. It’s very similar to the way synthetic diamonds are created, hence the name. The resultant finish is extremely hard-wearing. 

I was sent one to try. The coating adds a completely different feel to the watch. What was an excellent homage to a military watch is given a contemporary feel which works well. The quality of the finish and the excellent 3-dimensional luminous numerals of the dial are, as with the M100, a strong feature of the watch. It comes well presented in a Peli case with extra straps.

Vertex M100B

See below and my original review for more information on Vertex and the M100.

See Vertex Watches.

• Price £2624.40.
• The Vertex M100B is a limited edition DLC coated version of the M100.
• Only 150 M100B timepieces will be produced.
• Custom ETA 7001 mechanical movement with rhodium finish and Cotes de Geneve decoration.
• Moulded Super-LumiNova ® dial
• Brushed DLC Black case, box crystal glass, waterproof to 100m.
• Hand wound with 42 hour reserve.
• Black dial with arabic numerals to maximise legibility, in homage to the Vertex W.W.W watch of 1944.
• Packaged in a Peli case with two straps - a bespoke Vertex rubber two-piece strap, and a Vertex nylon NATO-style strap in Red with DLC metal parts.

This is an unsponsored post - I was lent the watch to try and received no payment. All views are mine alone.

Breitling RAF100 commemorative video and watches

This video, one of three commissioned by Breitling to commemorate the RAF centenary, was produced by David Gandy and features a poem by Karl Tearney who served in both the RAF and Army Flying Corps. I chatted to both David Gandy and Karl Tearney at the Breitling event to celebrate RAF100. Karl told me that he has suffered PTSD and depression as a result of his years of military service but now finds solace in art and poetry. His experiences have added a real power to David Gandy's powerful films:

    

To further commemorate the RAF100, Breitling have launched a limited edition collection of watches with a donation being made to the RAF100 Appeal. Breitling was long ago a pioneer of timepieces for flight, so have a heritage to apply here. I've not had the chance to wear any of these watches, but they doubtless come up to Breitling's usual high standards of construction.

Top left clockwise: Breitling Aerospace Evo, Navitimer, Avenger II, Colt Skyracer

As a proud official partner to the RAF, Breitling will donate proceeds from the sale of the pieces to the RAF100 Appeal which is a joint venture between the Royal Air Force and four major RAF charities - the Royal Air Force Benevolent Fund, the Royal Air Forces Association, the Royal Air Force Charitable Trust and the Royal Air Force Museum. The aim of the Appeal is to raise money for the RAF Family and to create a lasting legacy as we celebrate 100 years of the Royal Air Force in 2018. Find out more about the legacy of the RAF100 Appeal.

RAF 100 Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 46 RAF100 Limited Edition £7,750 – 25 pieces (Number 1 will be auctioned, the full proceeds from which will go to the RAF100 Appeal).

RAF 100 Avenger II GMT RAF100 Limited Edition £3,750 – 100 pieces.

RAF 100 Aerospace Evo RAF100 Limited Edition £3,650 – 100 pieces.

RAF 100 Colt Skyracer RAF100 Limited Edition £1,800 – 100 pieces.

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Buying a vintage watch

Whatever you wear, there are two items a man can own that add a touch of style to his appearance. Whether worn with formal, evening wear or weekend casual a good vintage watch and a pair of good quality shoes make up for many sartorial shortcomings.

Daniel Craig wears a vintage Rolex Daytona

Buying a new watch can, with a very few exceptions, be like buying a car - your purchase drops in value as soon as you've bought it. There are, of course, advantages to buying new - the seller's warranty and the sheer pleasure of owning a new, high quality, timepiece, but you may want to consider buying vintage.

A good collection of old Omega and Lemania watches (image Grey Fox)

If chosen with care, an older watch will reliably at least retain its value and is a pleasure to own. It will accumulate signs of its owner's character; the battered leather strap, the scratches on its case and glass and, in due course, the development of rich creams and browns to the luminous markers and dials of a watch older than 20 or so years.

Most older designs are simple and well-proportioned and, while there are many beautiful modern designs, new watches can be oversize, fussy and sometimes blingy in appearance - choose wisely.

Many makes have fascinating histories. This 1968 Omega Speedmaster is of the type worn by NASA's astronauts from the sixties through to the age of the International Space Station and was worn on the Moon. Omega still make this model, albeit with a different movement to that used in these early examples.

Omega Speedmaster Professional 1968 model - as worn on the Moon - image courtesy of Ming

The most beautiful part of an old mechanical watch is very rarely seen by the owner - the movement is a tiny glistening engine that's a marvel of micro-engineering, as this Omega movement from a simple military watch from 1953 shows -

Movement of an Omega '53 RAF pilot's watch - image courtesy of Ming

What to buy as your first vintage watch depends on your taste and the depth of your pocket. You'll rarely go wrong with a Rolex Submariner or GMT Master or older Rolex Datejust. Some models of the Omega Speedmaster or Seamaster will also be a good buys. These will be ideal starters to a larger collection or will make ideal choices as watches to wear every day if properly looked after and serviced. Mechanical watches like these are capable of being accurate to within a second or two a day.

With experience you may want to develop a theme for your collection. Some collect military watches, some chronographs, or watches of the types worn in Space, or from a particular brand. Most just buy what they like.

You can pay a few hundred pounds for a vintage watch, but it's likely to be a lesser brand, less attractive or in poor condition. To begin with, stick to well-known brands until you develop your own tastes and understanding of what to look for. They will also be more reliable investments, although I hope you buy a watch for the pleasure of ownership rather than to make money - something it is harder to do now that ten years ago. 

Always buy watches you like and will wear. There are some collectors who buy, never wear and keep their collection under lock and key. There's no pleasure in that at all. I'm of the school that likes to see the history of a watch in its patina. Be prepared to spend money on servicing the watch every five years or so. This can be pricey, but is essential.

A 1960s Tissot chronograph with Lemania movement

Quartz watches can be collectible, but they rarely have the romance of a mechanical watch, with that tiny motor ticking away n your wrist and producing remarkable accuracy and reliability. Neither will they, in general, be as good an investment as a mechanical timepiece.

If you're knowledgeable, the best place to buy such watches on watch enthusiast fora and marketplaces - but even though you will deal with trustworthy and enthusiastic sellers, you may still make mistakes. For the newcomer, a generally safer option is to buy from a well-established and reputable dealer from whom you will obtain a warranty and reasonably reliable guarantee of authenticity.

Finally, here are four useful tips for buying a vintage watch from a reader, David. I'm grateful to him for his help:

1. A fifty-year-old watch should look old. If it looks like it just came from the factory, something's off.

2. Replacement parts sink a watch's value. Take Rolex and Patek, the two most collectible brands: The original dial (the face) holds 60 to 70 percent of the watch's worth.

3. Some collectors ask for the original box and papers, but they don't matter. Few people kept them. I don't even do it now.

4. If a watch hasn't been serviced in five to ten years, plan to have it done yourself. It costs £300 or more.

5 Always ask about the return policy.

[This feature was edited and updated June 2018].

Luxury Watch Repairs

An important element of style is a good mechanical watch. However, watches need servicing regularly if they are to keep good time and be reliable. I recently had one of my favourite watches serviced by Luxury Watch Repairs (link below) in Hatton Garden, London and I was very pleased with the result.

A vintage watch may have a beautiful movement which needs regular servicing

A mechanical watch is a tiny motor with scores of moving parts driven by the kinetic energy stored in a spring which is either wound daily by hand or automatically by a tiny revolving weight which responds to the movement of your wrist. Any moving parts need to be kept clean and lubricated as they wear from the constant movement. It often amazes me how such a tiny mechanical motor can keep such accurate time for so long - but it will only do so if service every few years.

Finding reliable watch repairers isn't easy. Returning a watch to the manufacturers is generally pricy, and they may not be prepared to look at older and vintage watches. An independent repairer like Luxury Watch Repairs will generally be slightly more affordable but you have to be sure that they have access to spare parts for your watch and that they have the expertise to handle it. With any independent, check that they offer a guarantee and will give details of any work needed to the watch after a free initial assessment. LWR offer just such a service. You can order a free pre-paid postage box to send your watch to them for assessment.

I met founder Oliver Pollock, looked around their workshops and chatted to some of the watchmakers who carry out repairs. Oliver started the business to provide high quality servicing - even for older watches that some of the brands now refuse to service. Such are the skills of the watchmakers at LWR that they will make parts for older watches from scratch if they are required to revive a beloved timepiece.

My 15 year old Rolex GMT Master was in dire need of a service and was not in a good state. LWR have returned it to as new condition and it keeps time well within chronometer standards. I would recommend them highly. See Luxury Watch Repairs - full Rolex, Cartier, Breitling and Omega services from £260.

Note: My watch was serviced by LWR. I received no payment for this feature. All views are mine alone.

The Haskell Watch from the Marloe Watch Company

The Marloe Watch Company is a relative newcomer. Founded in 2015 by Oliver Goffe and Gordon Fraser, it produces British-designed manual wound mechanical watches. The Haskell (pictured below) is designed around the theme of British adventure, so is well-built, legible and water resistant to 100m. At 40mm across and 9.4mm high, it's intermediate in size: more elegant, comfortable to wear and less vulnerable to knocks than a large timepiece.

Wearing the Marloe Watch Company Haskell

The Haskell is available in four dial colours and arrives in a beautiful wooden box lined with grey flannel. All this adds to an impression of a carefully designed, quality watch. On the wrist it sits comfortably and the indigo blue (in my case) sunburst texture dial and polished applied indices and luminous hands add to the feeling of quality. There is a selection of fine leather straps that complement the design perfectly.

Powered by a hand-wound Swiss (ETA 2804-2) mechanical movement with a date, it's a straightforward, robust watch which perfectly fills its intended role as a traveller's watch but, being of simple design, can be worn with anything from formal to casual wear. Price £995.

For more on the Haskell, Marloe Watch Company and their other watches, click here.

This is a sponsored feature in collaboration with Marloe Watch Company.