Mixing patterns - check on check - take care

Saturday, 25 February 2012

Mixing patterns, such as wearing different checks alongside each other, has to be done with care. I've admired the way some men manage to do this without looking as though they've thrown on whatever lay to hand when they got up in the morning. What are the secrets that enable different patterns to be worn together successfully?

One of the masters of the art is Nick Wooster who is often photographed by the Sartorialist and other fashion blogger-photographers. See how he successfully mixes patterns here in a way that is actually so conventional that it's difficult to analyse why it has such visual impact. Maybe it's the total confidence he brings to his clothes and of course their cut and style.

Normally a man would be very careful about wearing such a mix of tweedy patterns, herringbone, Prince of Wales and other checks. But look at the second picture - what do you notice about the colours and textures that Wooster has chosen? Subtly different shades of grey of similar textures bring together what could otherwise be a jumble of clashing patterns .

I haven't yet been bold enough to wear patterns in this way, but it's on the to do list as the search for style continues. One trick I'm learning is to see how others do it and then decide what works for me. Have a look at the pictures below, do they work for you? What makes them successful or not?

6 comments

Fred Gonsowski25 February 2012 at 18:25
When mixing patterns, you want one that is predominant (the boldest), one that is subordinate (not as bold), and the third an accent (less bold of all). The patterns must pick up some or all of the same colors. Also a round pattern looks great next to a stripe, that would work with a plaid, as long as they are all of different sizes, and strengths. Mixing patterns is like the Stage. You have one Star, one co-star, and a supporting cast. There are never two Divas on the stage at once. After assembling an outfit make sure you are wearing one of each of the pattern sizes.
Grey Fox26 February 2012 at 02:22
Thank you Fred for visiting and commenting. You'd broken the pattern code for me I think - many thanks! GF
Anonymous26 February 2012 at 13:13
Hi Grey Fox,

Thank you for an enjoyable blog. I like some of your ideas, not keen on others but I am sure you will agree that people need to develop their own style and not copy someone else's. Slavishly following the way another person says we should dress is 'fashion'. My two favourite quotes on the subject are that 'fashion is for people who have no style' and that 'fashion is something so terrible that it has to change regularly before anyone notices'. Of course this is not the same as been 'inspired' by stylish people to find your own way of dressing.

At the age of 54 I think that I have found my 'style'. If you wish to apply labels, it's some sort of mixture of 'English classic' and 'American Ivy'. Of course, I get strange looks from men in their forties dressed like teenage skate-borders but one of the advantages of getting older is that you care less and less what people think of you.

Re. your item on mixing patterns and the great advice from Fred Gonsowski. May I recommend the book 'Dressing the Man' by Alan Flusser? In the chapter entitled 'The Prerogative of Pattern' Flusser writes:

The good news is that in order to dress well one does not have to brandish a tapestry of pattern; the bad news is that if one wants to develop a unique and enduring dressing style, familiarity with the prerogatives of pattern is a must.

He then goes into various sub headings on pattern mixing, each more dangerous than the next. Each is illustrated by photos of the usual suspects (Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, Prince Charles, the Duke of Windsor et al). I will attempt to summarise.

Mixing two patterns of the same design. The size of each should be as different as possible.

Mixing two different patterns. They should be close in size - unless one is very small, then the other must be much larger.

Mixing three patterns. The safest method is for each design to differ from the others.

Mixing three patterns when two are the same. The two the same should be of different sizes, the different one should be compatible with both.

Mixing three patterns of the same design. They must graduate in size.

Mixing four patterns. They must be muted.

Of course, if you are very clever, you can break these rules and still look great - but this is advance stuff that most of us will never master.

Tim K.