Grey Fox has caught up with Becky French, the designer/founder of menswear and accessories label (soon to become womenswear label too) Marwood. Becky launches a new collaboration at London Collections: Men in London next month (6th to 8th January 2014) and I'm grateful to her for telling me about her plans for Marwood next year and into the future.
Tell us about the business.
Marwood launched in January 2011, showcasing a handcrafted range of ties and bow ties made with the finest fabrics such as woven silk, wool and traditional English Leavers lace. We create modern men’s accessories that celebrate the traditions and techniques of a rich and distinguished heritage and use the most skilled, historic factories and fabric mills across the UK. Innovation, whether that be with new weaves and textiles or a new take on a classic item is our focus each season. The range includes ties, bow ties, scarves, braces, socks and pocket squares.
How did you get started? What made you pick menswear accessories as your interest?
I developed the idea of Marwood whilst I was working as a designer at Aquascutum. I guess I saw a gap in the market for interesting neckwear for men. A friend at the time expressed his dismay at the tie market and it got me thinking. I started collecting wonderful vintage ties and the idea just grew from there. I developed the idea in the form of a blog – an online sketchbook, in order to establish the aesthetic of Marwood and give it a visual backbone to refer back to.
What inspiration do you use in your designs?
All sorts. It all depends what I am seeing, reading, hearing at the time. The SS14 collection was inspired by a wonderful photography book by Orri, called Interiors. The AW13 collection was inspired by Jean Cocteau and train journeys through English landscapes. The idea is just a starting point for colour and pattern or an attitude/spirit really. It becomes a bit more abstract after that. Imagery and photography inspire me always.
How would you like to see the business develop?
How important is the British-made and designed aspect of the product to you?
For now I would like to see Marwood grow its online presence. We are re-designing our current website and shop with EverythingInBetween and then launching exclusive products and collaborations in the new year. The wholesale business is also very important to focus on and I am happy with how that is developing and the stockists we are gaining internationally. Most recently we delivered to Dover Street Market in London, Maxfield in LA and Beams in Japan. A small Marwood shop in London one day would be a real achievement.
The British made aspect is so important. To create a luxury product which demands a high price, it must be made with close attention to detail. We have a lot of British accessories specialists in Britain as well as some of the best fabric mills. I feel very lucky to work with a few of them and the relationships we have built in the last couple of years mean that we all care about producing a Marwood product to be proud of. Daily communication and visits mean that we can run every question past each other. It works well.
Who and where are your main markets? How would you like to see these develop?
England, Japan and most recently the United States. A London based pop up shop in October gave us the chance to meet customers face-to-face which is invaluable. It is great to meet someone who buys Marwood products and hear from them how important it was for them to know where it is made and be able to access that information through our website. I hope to connect more with customers in these markets through our own website – their feedback is really important to listen to. I visited Japan in November with the UKTI and this is something I want to do again. It is fascinating to learn about the varied expectations in terms of products and services in different markets and we want to get it right each time. We want to engage with the consumer and the retailers to get the best results.
What have been the particular challenges?
Starting a business from scratch with no business background – that brings enough challenges my way on a daily basis! Business management, finance, growth, profit, cashflow… all these type of words challenge me in a hit-head-against-wall type of way! Challenge is good though… right?
Where next for Marwood?
Firstly we are kicking off 2014 with two collaborations – one with UK cufflink makers Alice Made This (launching exclusively at LC:M) and the other with artist/illustrator Sam Kerr with his new project All Fall In (launching at Paris Men’s Fashion Week). Also, Marwood will be stocked in some more premium stockists in London and US as well as new concept stores in Nigeria and Russia. We are growing our offer for womenswear and showing this at London Fashion Week in February - menswear accessories for women – there will be some exclusive products, which we are excited to show. You can expect the Marwood accessories offer to grow steadily each season.
One final thought?
Thanks for taking the time to find out more about Marwood. Season’s Greetings! Wishing you a positive and successful 2014.
Wishing you all the best for the future and looking forward to seeing you at London Collections: Men.
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