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| Port production in the beautiful countryside of Portugal |
I recently had the pleasure if being invited to The Hawksmoor, Guildhall, in the City of London to taste some of Graham's range of port. Like many men of my generation, I'd come to see port as a drink reserved for after dinner, wrapped round with rituals that require that you pass the decanter clockwise, pour for the lady sitting next to you (she doesn't pour her own port) and take great care, as port is merciless the next morning.
Given my picture of port, I was slightly anxious about going to a tasting at lunchtime. Do people drink port in daylight hours? How can one taste port - isn't it all the same? How would I get home if I enjoyed myself too much?
What I learned was that port comes in many different varieties, with subtleties of juicy flavour and exquisite colours from gold, through ruddy brown to brilliant ruby red. And it can be drunk any time - as an aperitif, digestif, tipple, warmer - and with anything - sweet or savoury. If you're a younger generation than me and see nothing wrong with polluting well-made drinks with mixers, you could even explore that option - but please not with the higher-end, more subtle flavoured ports.
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| Keeping it in the family - port production at Graham's |
Graham’s wines come primarily from its own Quinta dos Malvedos, Quinta do Tua and Quinta das Lages in the Rio Torto. Two others, privately owned by a member of the Symington family, Quinta da Vila Velha and Quinta do Vale de Malhadas, also supply Graham with finest quality grapes. All five Quintas are among the best in the upper Douro valley. Graham’s also buys grapes from selected farmers in the finest districts. Some of these farmers have been selling their grapes to Graham’s for generations.
We were led through the tasting by Seb Jeans, head of wines at The Hawksmoor, whose knowledgeable advice quickly brought us up to speed on Graham's ports. We had a superb selection of foods, savoury and sweet, so that we could try them with different types of port.
The six wines we tried are listed below, each has its own distinct character. Despite a significant price range, all were welcoming and complex to drink and it was interesting seeing how port is more than an after-dinner drink. Some are suitable as fruity aperitifs, some to drink with food, savoury and sweet and some simply to enjoy on their own. Buy a few bottles and try for yourself - you won't be disappointed. My favourite was the Six Grapes Reserve - delicious.
GRAHAM’S SIX GRAPES RESERVE
GRAHAM’S 20 YEARS OLD TAWNY PORT
GRAHAM’S 2008 LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE
GRAHAM’S 10 YEARS OLD TAWNY PORT
GRAHAM’S FINE WHITE
Port! My favourite after-dinner drink. Here in Australia, we make some pretty good ports (and some horrible stuff too).
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