Black tie, dinner jacket and evening dress: Dress codes 1 by Sarah Gilfillan

Sarah Gilfillan and I are planning a series of posts on dress codes. This is the first, on black tie, dinner jacket, evening suit - all making up men's evening dress (in the USA the term tuxedo is used). In this feature we advise you on what you are expected to wear if invited to a black tie occasion. Sarah has also curated for you three complete black tie collections so that you can kit yourself out according to your budget at prices ranging from under £400 to over £1600.

Image courtesy Mr Porter

Sarah and I try to avoid setting fashion rules, but black tie is an area where it is impolite to ignore a host's request that you wear a certain dress at the event to which you are invited. I've been to black tie dinners where some guests have worn lounge suits, no ties, or dinner jackets with coloured bow ties. Strictly these guests didn't comply with their hosts' dress codes. I feel it's both respectful and polite to dress as asked on the invitation.

Some dress codes are more flexible than others. Black tie is the clearest and there's little room for alteration. Our advice is British in nature; there are variations in the interpretation of the black tie dress code in other countries. Neither have we advised on the many fascinating and creative ways in which black tie can be adapted for use with national and religious dress.

Here is Sarah's advice:

Jacket 

Your jacket should be black or midnight blue and have either a peak or a shawl collar which is trimmed in satin or grosgrain with covered buttons in the same fabric. The purists say it should NEVER have a notched lapel as that makes it too similar to a business suit, but we think this is too restrictive. There are many options (high and low end) sporting this collar shape.

John Lewis suit - Total outfit price: £394

Peaked lapels are a good choice if you have narrow shoulders (it diverts your eye out to your shoulders thus broadening them). If you have a very square face or very broad square shoulders then opt for a shawl collar which will soften the angles a little.

It's up to you if you wear double or single-breasted according to your preference and figure shape, but if it's single breasted it's traditionally one button, although two button is acceptable. 

The original school of thought is that the line of evening wear should be as clean as possible, and that means jet pockets instead of flap pockets and no vents at the back. This rule has been greatly flouted, though, and many of the modern jackets have both these "forbidden" things. If going for vents, it's preferable to choose double over single for a more classic, elegant look.

Some think that grosgrain is superior to satin, and I'd be inclined to agree. If it's of a lesser quality, satin can easily look cheap, whereas I don't think grosgrain does.

Hugo Boss suit - Total outfit: £994

Trousers

The trousers should be in the same fabric as your jacket and have a matching single braid (double is for white tie) down the side in the same fabric as the facings on your jacket. They should have a side fastener rather than belt loops, and can be worn with braces. They should not have turn-ups at the hem. 

Shirt

Your evening shirt should have a Marcella or pleat front and a turn down collar - never a wing collar which is for white tie (although interestingly in his book "Dressing The Man", Alan Flusser gives this as an option - maybe it's an American thing?) It should have a double cuff and be worn with simple elegant cufflinks. Personally, I love the understated formality of the Marcella front, but with the revival of the seventies at the moment, I wonder whether the frill front will also be revived?! [G.F: I agree with Sarah here; wing collars are an American interpretation of black tie and, while increasingly seen in the UK, are usually used here for white tie wear].

Tie

This should be a self-tie bow in either silk or grosgrain to match the lapel of your jacket. If you don't know how to tie it check out La Bowtique for the best video - as he says, it's just like tying your shoelaces. Also check out his guidelines on what shape bow tie to choose for your face shape.

Favourbrook suit - Total outfit: £1644

Accessories

Your socks should be in a fine knit black rib and calf length so as not to show any leg when sitting down. 

It used to be a sartorial crime to show your trouser waistband so a cummerbund or waistcoat was worn to cover it. If wearing a waistcoat, it should be a low cut single breasted style and usually has a shawl collar. Cummerbunds seem to be having a resurgence again, and I recently learnt that the pleats should be facing up because dress trousers didn't used to have pockets, so it was a handy place in which to store your opera or concert ticket. 

It's generally thought that cummerbunds work best with shawl collared jackets and waistcoats with a peaked lapel style.

A white linen, lace or silk pocket square may be worn in the top pocket. If you’re going for a more contemporary look, a spotted or simple geometric pattern, coloured or black and white, is, in our view, acceptable. 

Shoes

Patent or high-shine Oxfords are the most fitting choice, although I've noticed patent Derbies also being worn (and shown in image 3). You could also wear dress slippers, as long as you feel confident wearing them. They're better suited to slim gentlemen, as on a heavy man they could look as if he has women's ballet pumps on. Avoid shoes that are too casual, chunky or extreme in taste. We feel that brogues (with decorative holes) are not suitable, being a bit rustic for evening wear.

[Note: Product details for the outfits pictured above have been removed as they are outdated]