In this first of a new series, The Luxury of Less, the GQ columnist and YouTuber, Jim Chapman, looks at buying a suit, bespoke or off the peg. Containing some sound advice, it rightly emphasises the importance of fit over the label. Men are often too keen to buy labels and this blinds them to the fact that what they doesn't fit or suit them.
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Hi GF
ReplyDeleteA bespoke suit is certainly an investment and a good investment for those with the required interest and funds. I still get concerned that I'm paying the right amount for a suit when there is such a price range and quality overlap. I have a standard blue suit from TM Lewin which apparently is half canvass construction - the material drapes well and looks good - price c£220 (cheap). A similar half canvass construction suit from other retailers say along Jermyn Street is often north of £500. My quandary is, is it worth the paying the difference!?
Grey Fox
ReplyDeleteJim Chatman's video is very interesting but I feel a little misleading. He opens by saying bespoke quality clothes are expensive. But I think this is the age old error of price versus cost. The initial price might seem high but the cost of keep buying alternative cheaper items which need frequent replacing is higher in the long run.
As Stclaret says he could pay upto £500 for a fashionable suit from one of Jermyn Street mens clothes outlets. But I doubt very much whether this would last very long, so given (say) three or four years of replacements he will have outlaid more than the cost of a well made classic suit from a good tailors. (Sorry to bring you into this like that Stclaret but I think it also goes some way to answering your question)
Jim Chatman visited Gieves and Hawkes and gave the impression that every bespoke suit costs £5000, but this is certainly not the case. Any good "off Row" tailor will produce something excellent for between one and two thousand. I have used Savile Row tailors and paid high prices and then had a coat (ie what is mistakenly called a jacket) made by renown off row tailors for £500 less and not been able to see any quality or fit difference.
Stclaret although it is obviously not my place to answer the question you have posed to Grey Fox I hope you will both be good enough to allow me to throw in my two penneth. I think you would find that the likes of all the T.M Lewin, Charles Tyrwhitt type outlets in Jermyn Street will be very much of a likeness so I doubt the £300 difference you have mentioned would be easily discernable. Unless you are locked into the idea of keep buying so called fashion designed suites I would advise you to pay a bit more and get a classic suit made at a good tailors and enjoy its quality and perfect fit for as long as you want. (one last comment - don't spoil any suit with a cheap pair of rubbishy shoes)
Best regards,
Snapper
It's all about the trouser length
ReplyDeleteBuckets & Spades
Stclaret, Off the peg it's only worth paying more if the cloth and fit is better and the canvas isn't fused. Lewin OTP used to have floating canvases; if more expensive suits have fused chests I'd steer well clear. Equivalent suits can be found in M&S. (Not knocking M&S there!).
ReplyDeletePersonally, while the Row is rightly championed when suits get mentioned, I'm very happy with my suits from a city tailor that were less than a third of the price, and not much more than Row OTP. There are more affordable bespoke tailors producing great clothes.
A bespoke suit is a far better investment than a top brand watch, I think.
Stclaret, Christopher has echoed my comments completely so I think you would have to take it as good advise. Perhaps Grey Fox will give us his opinion too please.
ReplyDeleteIn his days as head cutter at Anderson and Shepard Thomas Mahon used to cut for Prince Charles. He now has his own (very successful) company "English Cut" but when he was starting out he used to write a daily blog. I remember him saying that a M&S suit was probably the best OTP quality and value at that time. So again good advise from Christopher, However one serious caveat - if their suits now incorporate silly fashion embellishments like two button holes on one lapel (what the hell for?), multi-coloured buttons on the coat or different coloured threads on button holes stay away from them! Don't waste your money. You might look the height of fashion this year but next season when all these things have changed you will be too embarrassed to be seen in this outdated fashion nonsense.
Best regards,
Snapper
Totally agree, Snapper.
ReplyDeleteClaret's lewin suit is likely of very good quality for OTR. The real difference with bespoke is that the high street can't inprove the fit to your unique quirks. I'd say if you can't stretch to bespoke (just sell the Omega/Rolex!), spend the extra money with a good alteration tailor rather than a more expensive brand.