I've just returned from Pitti Uomo in Florence, where I was the guest of Johnstons of Elgin, whose AW17 menswear collection was being launched. I'll write about that in a later feature; here I want to record a few thoughts prompted by my experiences at Pitti.
Image Grey Fox |
To call Pitti Uomo simply a vast menswear trade fair would be to miss the point. Based in Italy, it's bound to be coloured by the sartorial splendour of that country. Famous for the well-dressed men, peacocking in the central square and pursued by photographers, the world sees a distorted, yet in some ways accurate, view of the event. It's really about the commercial world of menswear, but showmanship and Italian 'bravura' can't be held back in a country where appearance, 'la bella figura', is so important.
Chatting at Pitti - image Grey Fox |
I'd been wanting to get to Pitti since I started this blog five years ago. It was Scott Schuman's (The Sartorialist) images of dapper older men at the event that made me realise that the older man is not lost to style - an assumption it's easy to make in the world where menswear brands largely ignore you once you're past thirty years of age.
Going to Pitti has inevitably coloured my view of style. The experience has furthered my search for style which is the central theme of this blog. How has it done that? I've always realised that style means different things to different men, but I'm learning to accept and use the richness of this variety. To some style is showing yourself off as a peacock, in the modern sense of the dandy*, in flamboyant clothes and behaviour; to to others, style is more subtle, akin to Beau Brummel whose original interpretation of dandyism was more perfection in fit and quality, understatement in design and a way of life than flamboyance. Most of us look for something in between (I know I do), but the two extremes influence us all. We take elements of a look, however extreme or conventional, in the use of colour or pattern, and apply a selection, an interpretation, to suit our own style and to influence how we dress.
I will be using some of these thoughts this year. I'm planning a series of interviews with men of style to be called Masters of Style, seeking their advice for buying and styling our wardrobes to suit our own tastes and personalities. I'll also be giving you some of my own ideas as to how we can use the clothes we have more effectively, looking at our existing wardrobes in a novel way.
Meanwhile, have a look at these images taken at Pitti and see if they inspire you in any way.
Meanwhile, have a look at these images taken at Pitti and see if they inspire you in any way.
*I'll shortly be reviewing Rose Callahan's most recent photographic examination of dandyism which shows these extremes to perfection. Click here to browse or buy We Are Dandy: The Elegant Gentleman Around the World.
Recently found your blog, aged early fifties....
ReplyDeleteI love Italian style and have looked long and hard for 'the secret'. I think it has to be in the quality and diversity of the clothes - and a consistency that seems to make almost anything work with anything. And perhaps social attitudes that accept less conformity. I am not a shy dresser, but I would struggle with some of those outfits in Britain, at least outside London. Great eye candy though, and some good inspiration. Many thanks.
Yeah, I very much agree with the previous comments. Fascinating stuff in any case.
ReplyDeleteBest Regards,
Heinz-Ulrich von B.
Classic Style (for the Average Guy) blog
GF,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the write-up of Pitti, and for the images on your Instagram feed. It was good to see your photographic coverage of the trade show component - after all, what goes on in the Fortezza is Pitti. Most blogs focus on all the eye candy and peacocking and while they are entertaining and inspirational, they are peripheral.
Regards,
Tony
Thanks David for your insightful, and mature, review of this extraordinary event. I look forward to your series on Masters of Style for our demographic.
ReplyDeleteBest wishes
Mark
Got to agree with Ian. Some of the styles would be mocked in my provincial northern town! Love looking at pics from pitti though.
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to the new ideas.
Jay
Thank you all for your as usual helpful thoughts. Ian, I think the quality of what these men wear is very high. Like many of you, I wouldn't wear much of it but I hope we can learn from HOW it's worn and also get some inspiration from the details.
ReplyDeleteThank you all.
GF