In these days when few older men appear in menswear advertising it's refreshing to look back at the illustrations of Laurence Fellows (1885-1964). His evocative and stylish drawings of men's styles from the thirties and forties show mature and sophisticated men, rather than the youthful models of modern catwalks and advertising.
It's no accident that as menswear advertising became youth-focused over the last forty or fifty years so looking dapper and well-dressed became secondary to following fashion. For young men, their clothes show that they're different from the previous generation; for older men, clothes are (or should be) the vehicle by which they express their self-confidence and personality. In very general terms, the young man follows fashion, the older finds style. In Fellows's time fashion existed of course, but style remained the ultimate aim.
I find Fellows's illustrations rich in inspiration, especially now that vintage styles are beginning to influence menswear. The last few years have seen a revival in interest in suits, hats, brogues, tweed, looser fitting trousers. Details like shawl collars, floppy tweed caps, waistcoats, pin collar shirts, braces and double breasted coats have been inspired by the likes of Suits, Mad Men, Peaky Blinders and even Downton Abbey. These have encouraged men and women to return to a more sophisticated, sartorial age where style was more important than fashion.
As older men, we should applaud the return of vintage-inspired styles. Suddenly we are once again in the position of being able to show the younger man how to dress properly, just as our grandfathers often helped our fathers. Young men are increasingly to be seen in tweeds and brogue, albeit with a contemporary twist. If there weren't this return to heritage, we older men would no doubt still be having to put up with the fading trends of skinny fits and truncated jackets.
I should acknowledge the inspiration of my fellow blogger, Mark Hollingsworth, whose piece entitled How to recreate classic summer trousers inspired this feature.
Absolutely LOVE these old Fellows illustrations! I've collected a bunch from various online searches and sources over the last several years and saved them into a folder on my computer desktop. A ton of useful and inspiration tips to be gleaned there as you so rightly note.
ReplyDeleteBest Regards,
Heinz-Ulrich von B.
Thank you David for this mention - I am most grateful. These illustrations are indeed a great source of inspiration, and I endorse your comment about advertising with older men. My recent experience with the Tailor Me process at Moss Bros demonstrated how although Moss Bros have developed a superb inter-generational product/service they are not marketing it beyond a mid thirties demographic (apart from the one suit you promoted on your blog for them!). Best wishes
ReplyDeleteMark
Grey Fox,
ReplyDeleteAs an old man I, like you, favour the style and elegance of what is probably now known as vintage type clothing. I have all my trousers made with a width of two thirds my shoe length. I opt for traditional heavy weight cloth which hangs and drapes well.
I can see that the current 'fashion' trend of skinny trousers ending three inches above the ankle very much favours the manufacturers. For every suit like this if they save (say) half a yard of cloth multiplied by mass produced quantities there is a massive financial benefit. All they then have to do is pay or persuade some current "celebrity", pop star or footballer to be seen in this rubbish and their money rolls in. God forbid these "fashion leaders" even appear at black tie and red carpet events dressed like this!
Grey Fox we are a dying breed, so many thanks to you for going down fighting
Regards,
Snapper
Whenever I see Lawrence Fellows's illustrations, I'm reminded of David Robb'a character on Downton Abbey, Dr Clarkson. I think it's a combination of precision of character echoing the precision/finess of dress sense in both Downton/Fellows. Of course the moustache helps with the association too! I recently binge-watched all of Downton over a three-week period, just drinking in the men's style. Sublime. Tony
ReplyDeleteNow I think of it, much of Mr Slowboy's work conveys the same sense of style as Fellows, albeit in a much simpler drawing style.
ReplyDeleteI think George B. Shaw said youth is an illness that is cured as years pass on... Not that I despise youth, but I think any society can't afford not paying any attention to what older people know...
ReplyDeleteThanks for the mention of my (relaunched) blog - I am most grateful. I continue to agree with you over the advertising issue - it is hard to comprehend why so many firms continue to market using models (and by definition lifestyle) in their twenties. Hope to see you soon to catch up and exchange some ideas. Mark.
ReplyDeleteGrey Fox
ReplyDeleteI notice that you are not publishing any comments now against each of your posts here. Alternatively you wait so long to print them that you have often published two or three pieces after the article, such that readers don't go back to the original item
Would you prefer not to have any comments on this part of your website? It would seem a shame to me.
As ever, best regards Snapper