Budd Shirtmakers: The Making of a Bespoke Shirt

It's not until you've had shirts made bespoke that you can have a true idea of the extent of the skills, workmanship and knowledge that goes into them. I recently went through this fascinating process with Budd Shirtmakers who, since their foundation in 1910, have been in Piccadilly Arcade, between London's Jermyn Street and Piccadilly. 

The store, like all those on the prestigious arcade, seems small as you enter, but steep stairs go down to the fitting room and up to an area where Budd's experienced cutters cut luxurious cloths to clients' detailed measurement before sending the bundled cottons, linens and silks to the company's Hampshire workshop where the shirts are sewn and finished. Sadly there are few shirtmakers in London who still have cutting rooms on their premises and I felt privileged to be able to visit it to talk to the Head Cutter, John Butcher (who's been making shirts for over fifty years and whose tales of the history of London shirtmaking are fascinating) and James Macauslan, who was to cut my shirts. 

Being measured up by James Macauslan

Budd offer off-the-peg shirts of high quality, but I was going to experience the bespoke service from start to finish. New clients are asked to order at least four shirts to ensure that cut and fit are perfect and this was how I started my bespoke experience. James carefully measured me and we discussed fit and the many details that go to make up a shirt, such as collar shape, cuffs, length, placket and buttons before going on to the hard part, which is selecting the cloth. The finest cottons, linens and even silks are available to make shirts for all purposes, from the most formal for white tie and royal events, through to chambrays and denim for casual and workwear.

After I'd left, James got to work striking out the pattern and cutting the cloth for one trial shirt. This is done to ensure that the final products are exactly right in terms of fit and style. I returned for a fitting to review the cut and shape before being instructed to take the shirt away for wash and wear. After this, I provided feedback on any outstanding issues, allowing for James to make small changes to my pattern, amendments to the trial shirt itself and cut the cloth for the remaining shirts. These bundles were then sent down to Andover where they would be completed.

Gwen and Di working on my shirts

Sewing a collar

The collar is sewn onto the body of the shirt

Quality checks

Pressing the shirt for packing

The proud shirtmakers and the proud owner

I had the privilege of travelling down to see my shirts being made. Tucked away in Andover is the Budd workshop where a group of highly experienced shirtmakers work their magic to produce the final product. I was shown around by Di Bainbridge and Gwenda Witt who told me that each shirt takes one to two hours to make, depending on the complexity of the cut and details such as pleats, collar shape and the properties of the cloth. 

Wearing one of my shirts (with a tab collar) at Budd's Piccadilly Arcade store

Styling all four shirts

All of the women can make a shirt from start to finish and the years of experience and the skill levels are impressive. I was totally in awe of the care required, for example, simply to sew a cuff onto a bespoke shirt. As she sews the cuff onto the sleeve, the shirtmaker carefully folds the cloth of the sleeve to make the small pleats which gather the cloth into the cuff. I was struck by the level of care that goes into each shirt. It happens rarely, but with a complex shirt, if a few stitches are minutely out of place the shirtmaker will not be satisfied and she will undo the work and start again. I began to understand why the discerning customer prefers bespoke shirts as I watched the women and tried to keep up with their explanations of the complex work they were carrying out.

I left not only with my shirts but also with a deep respect for the conscientious skills displayed by Budd's shirtmakers. The shirts, of course, fit to perfection, but I will wear them with considerable pride for the skills that have gone into them

To find out more, go to Budd Shirtmakers or find out here about the bespoke shirts service.

Leaving Budd's workshops in Andover

This feature is a collaboration with Budd Shirtmakers. All views are mine alone.