Interview: Grey Model Agency Founder Rebecca Valentine on Why Advertising Needs Older Models

In this feature I talk to Rebecca Valentine, founder of Grey Model Agency. Even though nearly half of consumer spending in the UK is by people over fifty, we seldom see older people in advertising; particularly in fashion. While this has been changing over the last year or so, there is still a disproportionate number of young models, even advertising products that few could afford in their twenties and thirties.

Michael Millen models for Lyle & Scott. Grey Model Agency

Here on Grey Fox Blog I've been trying to work against this, in a very small way indeed, by finding brands who will allow me to wear and feature their clothes and accessories. And it's not easy, as even brands and PR companies I've supported for years suddenly plead budgetary constraints when I ask for their help. I can't help feeling that this is often because I don't represent the youthful markets they all feel they need to chase. This myopia about even trying to awake the sleeping giant that is the older demographic is potentially self-destructive for an industry that often struggles.

In the professional modelling world there are few older models, but the most successful of the agencies that represent them is the Grey Model Agency. I've known their founder, Rebecca Valentine, for a while, but so busy has she been that I've only just managed to catch up with her to find out more about her agency as it bucks the ageist trend of fashion advertising. I talked to her about the agency and brands' attitudes to older models.

Brands can no longer [realistically] believe that their market [is] locked into brand loyalty at a young age, nor that... older men and women have a deep-rooted desire to return to their youth... Rebecca Valentine

Jon Campling models for Budweiser. Grey Model Agency

Q: Rebecca, tell us how you came to found Grey Models?

Fifteen years ago as a photographic agent I set up Streetmodel, a casting database of ordinary people, to service my photographer who needed interesting ordinary people for various commercial briefs. We also made the service available to the industry and noticed that the mature models, both male and female, were booked far more than others, which provoked the question, why? 

In 2015 when I had hung up my photographic agent coat feeling I had achieved everything I set out to, I wondered again at the mature model interest and why there was no agency dedicated to this interesting section of society. Having called on old friends, master photographer Paul Spencer and former model and Westwood muse, Sara Stockbridge to join me in a secret casting in London we discovered that my hunch that times were changing were correct. The event was attended by a diverse mix of elegant-eccentric mature models. The overwhelming feeling was that ‘It is time’, and so Grey Model Agency was founded based on signing atypical models to represent the much needed gap in the market.

Matthew Morris models for Esprit. Grey Model Agency

Q: Why did you start Grey Models?

Boredom mainly. I had become disillusioned with the creative industries, through advertising, music and fashion. There was such an emphasis on cheap bland art. Models all looked the same and indeed, so did campaigns, album covers and catwalks. We had all risen from the diversity of the 80’s when punk, New Romantic, mods and ‘casuals’ cared about their identities and their image. Music had the power to change international thinking over famine and economic imbalance. 

Gender was becoming less black and white and racism was being put in its place. It was the worst of times and the best pop times, which funnily enough seems to be happening again with art, music and fashion reacting against questionable economics and politics. Grey was a response to all of this. Ironically the shock of the new by representing the old agers who were making a difference in their youth 30 years ago.

Philippe Dumas and Zvona Vuckovic for Ghetaldus Optika. Grey Model Agency

Q: What is the attitude of brands generally to using older models? Does this change attitude vary in relation to older men and older women models?

Brands are changing their approach - slowly - and I’d like to think that Grey had something to do with that along with the positive press we have received across the world from launch, but I believe it is mainly due to the market pressure and desire for true representation in advertising. 

Blogs and social media has given the market a strong voice never-before seen, about what they want, what they need and how they want to be portrayed. The older demographic of course have all the disposable income too which is a new development. Brands can no longer believe that their market [is] locked into brand loyalty at a young age, nor that the petty chauvinistic belief that older men and women have a deep-rooted desire to return to their youth and do anything to accomplish that, still stands. 

There has been a major focus over the past two years on this issue for women, but mature men have been overlooked - either believed to already be well presented as silver foxes or unbothered by their lack of representation. It is an idle view and brands are discovering that it is to their financial cost.

Grey Models

Q: What advantages do you see there is to brands of using older models? What types of older model do you see being most successful?

Since launch two years ago Grey has seen significant shifts in mature model trends. Initially, we couldn’t move for briefs calling for Helen Mirren or George Clooney lookalikes. Briefs began to widen to call for the long silver-haired sirens and chiseled silver bearded foxes, but more recently we have seen a further opening up to diversity within this age group to embrace more atypical looks; deepest wrinkles, weather-worn, slim and muscular, quirky, mixed race, beautiful body art - elegant-eccentric. 

It is a breath of fresh air and not whimsical in the least as these looks, or using them, delivers a powerful message visually and socially. Perception of beauty and economic identity is changing.

An expensive sharp well-tailored suit worn by an atypical male model, such as former fisherman-turned-top-fashion-model, Alessandro Bodio, can deliver the shock of the new. It is arresting, forces one to question their preconceptions, shows how models looks and a quality product can be juxtaposed. 

While there will always be a demand for the strikingly beautiful men and women whose looks make them seem unattainable, I also see a move towards the more atypical look that provokes and disarms.

Grey Models

Q: How do you see the future of Grey Models?

Already we are much mimicked around the world with agencies sprouting up from Russia, to Brazil, USA to Australia, but what they lack is the uniquely British approach to left-field identity, beauty and fashion. I receive many requests for Grey opening branches in Italy, New York, LA, but currently we need to establish our London agency and also be sure that the market can support an agency in different territories.

In London we are dealing with clients worldwide from Seoul to Toronto, we also represent international models from all four corners of the world and, when budgets allow, our unique-looking models are being booked and flown across territories. When we feel this movement is greater than London can deal with then perhaps we will look at more international branches. The future then is very bright!

Q: Many thanks Rebecca for that fascinating insight.

Click here for more work by Grey Models.