So you're going to the Royal Wedding this weekend or to a more lowly one over the spring/summer, or maybe to an event like The Investec Derby or Royal Ascot? The dress code asks for morning dress; what is it and how do you wear it? I've teamed up with ace menswear personal stylist Sarah Gilfillan of SartoriaLab (link below) to find out:
Sarah has put together the following advice to which I've added some thoughts: Morning dress is a formal dress code worn in the day, mostly at weddings, seasonal events such as Royal Ascot Races or at events linked to Royalty or government. There are two main variants. The first comprises a black tail coat with striped (or sometimes checked) trousers and a waistcoat. This is strictly not a morning suit, as nothing matches! The second variant is less formal and has coat, trousers and waistcoat in matching grey, making it a true morning suit. While usually a morning suit has a matching waistcoat we don't see why, given its less formal nature, you shouldn't try a subtle pastel or paler grey if you want.
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| Prince William and Prince Harry in morning dress |
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| The Royal Family wearing all variations of morning dress, morning suit and morning coat |
The coat is generally worn unbuttoned. Get advice on length: the tails should reach the back of the knee, but other factors can come into play, so check the final look in a mirror to ensure the proportions look right. Google 'morning dress' and study the images, what lengths look right, what look wrong? If in doubt, study Prince Charles. Nobody wears morning dress better. This is partly because he's so relaxed in it. The fact that he has an excellent tailor helps too.
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| Giving away my beautiful daughter at her wedding |
Some retailers offer coloured and patterned linings to morning coats. Some (and we agree) feel this is a mistake. The lining shows on the tails and can be overpowering. Stick to black or grey lining.
Prince Charles wears black braiding around the lapels of his black coat in one of the images above (and see the vintage image below of Edward Prince of Wales). This is unusual now, but you may consider it for a different, if rather formal, look.
Prince Charles wears black braiding around the lapels of his black coat in one of the images above (and see the vintage image below of Edward Prince of Wales). This is unusual now, but you may consider it for a different, if rather formal, look.
The trousers are usually cut quite high in the waist to match the elegant waist of the coat. You may need braces (suspenders in US) to keep them up comfortably without altering their shape. Trousers usually don't have turn ups (cuffs) as they don't suit the formal nature of the dress code.
Usually either form of morning dress is acceptable at a wedding, but the close family may all agree to wear one or other variation to achieve some uniformity of appearance. Our experience is that this expectation doesn't generally extend to guests, but check if you're unsure.
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| Loake Rothschild oxfords, British Belt Co Baker blue braces, TM Lewin shirt |
A white shirt is traditional, although a coloured shirt is a little more adventurous (see Prince Charles's above). If you select a coloured shirt, we highly recommend what the Americans call a Winchester shirt: one with a white collar (and sometimes white cuffs as well). This harks back to the days when a removable white collar would be worn on the shirt. In our view, the flash of white at the collar ideally suits the formal nature of the suit.
The coloured shirt is best in a soft blue, pink or yellow; take care with brighter colours. Stripes and even checks can be worn; but we advise discretion. Pastels and soft hues are best. Make sure your shirt complements, rather than matches, your waistcoat.
A turn-down collar is the usual and best choice. We aren't keen on wing collars, they're not traditional to morning wear and give a period costume appearance. Double cuffs (French cuffs) go with the formal nature of the dress.
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| Morning dress of yore. The maverick Prince of Wales wears a bow tie and rakish hat; rules are made to be broken |
Tie/cravat
A silk tie is the best choice here. Cravats (and wing collars) run the risk of looking a over-dressed in our view and they aren't part of traditional morning attire. Choose a tie in a discreet colour and pattern that complements shirt and waistcoat.
Waistcoat
The waistcoat is single or double-breasted. For coolness in the summer, try linen. It can match the coat, or a muted plain colour can look very stylish. We caution against being too bold with the colour or design of your waistcoat.
Slips
The slip is a white length of material which buttons around the neckline of the waistcoat, giving the impression of two waistcoats worn one over the other (from the days when this was fashionable). Prince Charles wears one in the top right of the second image above. They are rare, but there is some interest in them and they seem to be becoming more common among the sartorially aware.
Top hat
The waistcoat is single or double-breasted. For coolness in the summer, try linen. It can match the coat, or a muted plain colour can look very stylish. We caution against being too bold with the colour or design of your waistcoat.
Slips
The slip is a white length of material which buttons around the neckline of the waistcoat, giving the impression of two waistcoats worn one over the other (from the days when this was fashionable). Prince Charles wears one in the top right of the second image above. They are rare, but there is some interest in them and they seem to be becoming more common among the sartorially aware.
Top hat
For very formal events a top hat may have to be worn. For weddings and other events it is generally put to one side or dispensed with altogether. Black or grey hats seem to be interchangeable with grey or black morning coats and suits, although arguably a black hat is preferable for the most formal events.
The best top hat will be made of black silk. Such silk polishes up so the hat glows with an intense and beautiful blackness. Sadly such silk is no longer made (and the secrets of its manufacture lost) so you will be looking for a vintage hat costing several hundreds or thousands of pounds if you want one. Otherwise a polished fur felt will be much more affordable and nearly as spectacular.
The best top hat will be made of black silk. Such silk polishes up so the hat glows with an intense and beautiful blackness. Sadly such silk is no longer made (and the secrets of its manufacture lost) so you will be looking for a vintage hat costing several hundreds or thousands of pounds if you want one. Otherwise a polished fur felt will be much more affordable and nearly as spectacular.
Shoes
Black oxfords are the formal shoe of choice. Plain derbies are acceptable. The usual wisdom is that brogues (with punched hole designs) are a bit country and therefore not formal enough. Patent leather is really for evening, not day wear. Please wear good shoes that aren't too estate agent pointy; bad footwear will ruin the look. They should be in good condition and shiny clean. Wear socks to match the trousers.
Accessories
Cufflinks, a pocket square that complements rather than matches the tie and a tie pin can be worn. As ever, go for minimalist design and soft pastels in any accessory, rather than anything too overpowering. Grey Fox wore a beautiful porcelain buttonhole from Boutonnière London at his daughter's wedding a year or two ago, image below.
General thoughts
If some of our advice sounds a little cautious, remember; if you're at a wedding the photos will be being studied for decades to come. Morning suits have the advantage of looking timeless. If you depart too far from the classic, with extravagant cravats, trendy shoes or bright shirts, those images will lack that timeless classic look.
At other events, part of the fun is being in a uniform enjoying the occasion. Departing too far from the dress code can leave you feeling self-conscious. That's fine if you're an extrovert, feel you want to make some obscure political point or are so sophisticated that you can pull it off with bravado. You can express individuality within the constraints of the dress code in choice of colour, cut (if you're lucky enough to buy bespoke or made to measure) and accessories. Relax and enjoy the event. Try to feel comfortable in your morning dress or you'll look very stiff and awkward.
At other events, part of the fun is being in a uniform enjoying the occasion. Departing too far from the dress code can leave you feeling self-conscious. That's fine if you're an extrovert, feel you want to make some obscure political point or are so sophisticated that you can pull it off with bravado. You can express individuality within the constraints of the dress code in choice of colour, cut (if you're lucky enough to buy bespoke or made to measure) and accessories. Relax and enjoy the event. Try to feel comfortable in your morning dress or you'll look very stiff and awkward.
I know that many readers here are from outside the UK. In general the rules over morning dress are more uniform worldwide than the black tie dress code, but I suggest you do your own research on local variation.
Note: This feature is an updated version of a feature on the same topic posted on the blog in 2016 What I write here is a combination of my thoughts and discussions I've had with David of Grey Fox. The views we express are ours and reflect the occasionally flexible nature of dress codes. Rules are there to be broken, but do so with care! The post is unsponsored.
[GF: If you need help from Sarah on this or any personal styling problem, contact her through her website, SartoriaLab here.]
Note: This feature is an updated version of a feature on the same topic posted on the blog in 2016 What I write here is a combination of my thoughts and discussions I've had with David of Grey Fox. The views we express are ours and reflect the occasionally flexible nature of dress codes. Rules are there to be broken, but do so with care! The post is unsponsored.
[GF: If you need help from Sarah on this or any personal styling problem, contact her through her website, SartoriaLab here.]
Thank you for such a clear and easy to follow article - I did have one question: are blue morning suit jackets ever acceptable?
ReplyDeleteMany thanks Ben. Not an easy one - The strict morning wear code would probably not allow it, but while a very deep midnight blue might work, you might struggle to look anything but a little different in a paler blue. The trouble is that dress codes exist for a reason - they have roots in military uniformity and also exist to ensure that no one stands out or makes a fool of themselves. Think also about those photos in twenty years time.
ReplyDeleteI can see it working at a particularly individual event but it would be a one off and you'd have to ask when you might be able to wear the blue morning suit again.
As you can see, I'm shying away from the idea.
GF