Guest post - English Shoes: why they’re worth wearing by Thomas Read of Reads Footwear

I've had several requests from readers for information about shoes, so am grateful for this guest post from the frontline of shoe retail by Thomas Read of Reads Footwear.

Why should we buy British-made footwear and why are good shoes an excellent investment? To produce bench-grade English shoes takes around eight weeks and over two hundred hand operations - English shoes are anything but average. A high level of skill and attention to detail goes into their production. The best raw materials and time-tested manufacturing techniques are matched by skilled craftsmen and women with years of shoemaking experience. 

Tricker's Bourton

Northampton is the centre of footwear production and many of it’s most famous names - Tricker’s, Crockett & Jones, Cheaney, Church’s, to name a few (links below) - trace their company heritage back to the nineteenth century. The majority also remains in the hands of families that originally established them. 

Perhaps the most significant factor which sets Northampton’s shoes apart can be singled down to just one manufacturing technique; the Goodyear Welt. Goodyear welting is a method of attaching the sole of a shoe to the base of its uppers through a separate piece of leather. The process, which was actually invented by an American - Charles Goodyear Jr. – may not have its origins in this country but has been perfected on the factory floors of Northampton to such an extent that we are renowned as world leaders in it. Welts can be stitched by hand or machine and essentially mean that the sole has a firmer bond to the rest of the shoe with the advantage of being replaceable.

There are many benefits to creating shoes with this method, not only does a Goodyear welt ensure a more durable and hardwearing sole, it also improves water-resistance and, contrary to first impressions, makes shoes more comfortable to wear. 

New leather may look stiff, but the cork filling - found in the mid-sole - moulds to the wearer’s foot over time to create an almost bespoke fit within the inners. Welted shoes also allow greater flexibility of movement and the natural contours of a properly structured shoe give the wearer more support. Above all, once the soles become worn out they can be stripped away from the welt, allowing for a complete refurbishment to take place. The pair pictured below, by Crockett & Jones, recently returned from a second factory re-sole. 

Selbourne by C&J: after a second factory repair their good as-new look is testament to the quality and value of Goodyear welted shoes.

Of course, this is not to say that shoes manufactured by different means in other countries with strong leather crafting traditions – Italy and Spain for example - are without merit, only that Goodyear welting seems to produce the most reliable footwear for our climate. 

The general public however, largely under-appreciate the shoe trade in this country. There is a reluctance to value the shoemaking heritage we have on our doorstep in favour of cheap high street imports. Footwear for many men is simply an afterthought, and footwear that is a cut above the rest simply doesn’t register.

Shoes should be the anchor of a man’s wardrobe. Even without an interest in fashion, a well made pair of brogues or oxfords are a versatile and practical must. They will serve you time and again. Shoes make or break the best and worst of outfits; anything substandard spoils even the most expensive designer suit while a good quality pair can rescue the most haphazard dresser from the brink of embarrassment. 

Nowhere does the notion ‘buy cheap buy twice’ ring truer than in regard to what we cover our feet with. Yet this idea is dismissed as a load of old cobblers by those who scoff at spending anything over £50 on shoes. 

It’s always astounding to witness some of the baffling attitudes that exist around footwear. Some men seem to expect the maximum longevity and performance from their shoes for the minimum price. It all boils down to perception of value. If we consider how many times Goodyear welted shoes can be repaired the shock of the initial price pales in comparison to the ethical and financial waste of replacing pair upon pair of cheap, synthetic, glued-soled alternatives. Consider, also, how willing people are to fork out thousands of pounds on technology and cars that seem to date and decrease in market value almost instantly, not to mention their on-going costs. A pair of well-made boots or shoes on the other hand, if properly looked after, can last for many years and will only improve with age. 

Any object that’s been made with care and attention demands to be taken care of and shoes are no exception. It may seem laughable to some readers of this blog, but there is nothing more therapeutic and satisfying than taking some polish, a dash of water and using some elbow grease to work your shoes into a mirror-like shine. Try it once - we promise you won’t look back. Your shoes will glimmer and stand out from the crowd while compliments will come flooding in. 

It’s often said that the devil is in the details and that shoes are the first thing noted about an individual’s appearance. A man who can lavish the time and attention to make something as ‘trivial’ as his footwear gleam and stand out will seem like he has the rest of the world at his feet.

Oh, and one last golden tip to make your shoes go the distance - remember to put your shoetrees in when you take them off! 

Here's (above and below) our pick of six pairs to put your best foot forward in… 

Cheaney Boughton

Church's Pembrey

Crockett & Jones Lowndes

Crockett & Jones Belgrave

Reads Tricker's Green

Some British shoemakers
For more see Grey Fox's directory of UK-made menswear.
Tricker’s

Crockett & Jones
Cheaney
Church’s
Sanders
Barker