Loake: a visit to their Kettering factory

I recently visited Kettering to see the Loake footwear factory. As a blogger, I've had the privilege of visiting several factories around England and Scotland. All were similar in many ways: the smell of oil, the sounds, the ordered but well-worn furnishings and machinery, the quiet focus of the workers, their enthusiasm and care and the breathtaking expertise shown in those quick, deft movements used by those totally familiar with their work. 

All were proud of their work, from managers, owner, designers to those working on the factory floor. All were gratifyingly busy and it's good to see the continuing growth of British fashion manufacturing.

I own three pairs of Loake, all made on last 024/F, which just suits my foot shape. It was interesting to be shown the last on which these would have been made (pictured above).

Loake has been a family business since 1880 and I spent time with Andrew Loake, whose great-grandfather opened the factory. Loake is almost the only shoe factory left in Kettering. Andrew's father remembered when there were at least thirty footwear factories and associated tanneries and industries in the town. One other has recently opened up; a sign, hopefully, of the world-wide growth of British-made menswear.

Shown round by Factory Manager Brendon Drage-Dawes, I watched as shoes were made from the first cutting of the leather, to the construction of the Goodyear-welted soles and uppers around the last and on to the finishing and polishing before packing and despatch. 

The size of the factory surprised me, but each shoe goes through some 230 stages during the manufacturing process. Much of the work is done entirely by hand to remarkable tolerances by highly-skilled and experienced men and women. 

Seeing the processes drives home the sheer quality of the product. These are shoes made to last; a synthesis of high quality materials and 300 year-old tried and tested construction methods. There are no cheap gluing techniques, only processes designed to make a durable and comfortable shoe.

Increasing capacity is given over to refurbishing of shoes for the large number of customers who send them in for repair. What they get back is virtually a new shoe, re-heeled, re-soled and polished.

Loake has a factory in India, to which they send components which are made into shoes (designed in Kettering) to similar quality to those made in England. This enables them to offer a lower-priced shoe of good quality to those looking for this rather than a full-British-made shoe. The company believe that it is important to be totally transparent about the origin of their shoes, as Andrew Loake discusses in this article on the Loake website.

As with all my factory visits, I came away fired with enthusiasm for the quality of British manufacture. But 99% of the footwear we buy in Britain is made abroad. Hopefully I can instead persuade you to try a piece of British-made craftsmanship.

For more about Loake, or to buy their shoes or find a local stockist, see the Loake website.

Loake shoes made in England - a video

Last week I visited Loake Shoes in Kettering. I'll be reporting on a fascinating visit soon. Meanwhile, here's a video that shows some of what I saw - British shoemaking at its best. 

For more information, or to buy from their wide range of men's shoes, go to Loake.

Cheaney Cairngorm - Veldtschoen construction shoes

Our largely urban lifestyle has sidelined the need for robust, waterproof and truly comfortable footwear. Pavements are not muddy, rock-strewn hillsides and there is little call for shoes that can be worn on both. We tend to separate our urban and country lives, buying stylish shoes for work and walking boots or wellies for the country.

Cheaney Cairngrom

As a result shoes constructed to be sturdy, comfortable all day and weatherproof are overlooked. This is a a shame, because Veldtschoen construction shoes will last a lifetime and that chunky appearance is just the bee's knees. Their construction is slightly different from Goodyear-welted shoes, as they are assembled and stitched to keep out water. Their round-toed appearance enhances this waterproof quality and, to my eyes, gives them a slightly military, retro and highly-stylish look.

Cheaney Pennine boot

This robust and traditional style endears them to real shoe enthusiasts, who snap up used Veldtschoen construction shoes for high prices on internet sales sites. Clearly there is a hardcore demand for them, making them something of an investment. Joseph Cheaney & Sons have recognised this demand by making (in Northampton, England) a handful of Veldtschoen construction models, shoes and boots, four of which are illustrated here. I've tried the Cairngorm brogues, pictured here. 

Cheaney Mallory boot

The first impression on putting them on is of great comfort, a result of the soft but robust grain leather and of the slightly rounded shape, more foot-friendly than more pointed designs. The tongue is stitched into the shoe along its length, to prevent water seeping in round the laces. The Itshide Commando sole does its job on soft or hard ground.

Cheaney Cairngorm

If you're looking for a strong and supremely comfortable shoe with an interesting history and construction, try these beautifully-made shoes, fine examples of the best of English shoe manufacture.

Terrific with tweed, peerless with denim, sublime with chinos, shocking with shorts; a pair of these, properly maintained, will last a lifetime, making them a bargain. For more information see Joseph Cheaney & Sons' website, where you'll find a selection of shoes that'll turn you into a male Imelda Marcos if you don't exercise extreme self-restraint.

Cheaney Stour

Bodileys shoes - made in Northampton

It's always a pleasure to meet owners of well-established British menswear businesses, particularly those which have family links over several generations. I recently met Sarah Dudley of Bodileys, who has recently launched a 'London Collection' of English-made shoes, some of which I show here.

Sarah told me that Bodileys was established in 1919, originally the leading retail shop in Northampton supplying shoes from local manufacturer’s such as Crockett and Jones, Alfred Sargent and Cheaney. Sarah Dudley, fourth generation of the family business, led the move into export and online sales and recently the launch of their own brand, the ‘London Collection’.

John Garner joined Bodileys in 2012 as designer. A well-known figure in the industry, he brought great experience to the company. Formerly of Edward Green (retirement didn’t totally suit him!), his passion, expertise and extensive knowledge in the design and construction of shoes was the perfect fit with Sarah’s dream to launch a collection of shoes that are classic with smooth clean lines and superb quality at affordable prices of around £345.

Sarah was keen that the ‘London Collection’ should be made in England to carry on the heritage, reputation and prestige of Goodyear Welted shoes. The shoes have been made by Cheaney under the very keen eye of both John and Sarah. Cheaney has been under the ownership of two of the Church family members for the past 3 years. They bought the company back from Prada, owners of Church and Cheaney since the 1990’s. 

It was of greatest importance to source the very best calf leather and other materials, the last shapes were chosen with careful consideration and extensive research to give utmost comfort, they come up true to the UK sizing system, meaning that each customer would require their same UK size for all the styles.

Sarah obviously has great ambitions for Bodileys and, although they will continue to supply other makes of shoes such as Crockett and Jones and Alfred Sargent, she plans to develop the Bodileys brand to offer great English made shoes of beautiful design at competitive prices. Having grown up surrounded by shoes, she clearly knows much about men’s shoes and John Garner has become an invaluable member of the development team.

I was impressed by the variety in the range, but Sarah and John will be adding more styles in the coming months to give customers a greater range of choice. Sarah also mentioned that she “particularly enjoys interacting with customer’s queries and is always available to discuss and advise on individual requirements”, so do get in touch with them if you're after any particular design, size or style. Click here to see The London Collection. 

I was really impressed by Sarah's pride in the collection. She showed me many of the shoes. Not only are they beautifully made, but she was keen to seek my thoughts and suggestions, even though I know nothing about shoes, she is very keen to elicit consumer ideas and responses.

For more about Bodileys click here.

Guest post - English Shoes: why they’re worth wearing by Thomas Read of Reads Footwear

I've had several requests from readers for information about shoes, so am grateful for this guest post from the frontline of shoe retail by Thomas Read of Reads Footwear.

Why should we buy British-made footwear and why are good shoes an excellent investment? To produce bench-grade English shoes takes around eight weeks and over two hundred hand operations - English shoes are anything but average. A high level of skill and attention to detail goes into their production. The best raw materials and time-tested manufacturing techniques are matched by skilled craftsmen and women with years of shoemaking experience. 

Tricker's Bourton

Northampton is the centre of footwear production and many of it’s most famous names - Tricker’s, Crockett & Jones, Cheaney, Church’s, to name a few (links below) - trace their company heritage back to the nineteenth century. The majority also remains in the hands of families that originally established them. 

Perhaps the most significant factor which sets Northampton’s shoes apart can be singled down to just one manufacturing technique; the Goodyear Welt. Goodyear welting is a method of attaching the sole of a shoe to the base of its uppers through a separate piece of leather. The process, which was actually invented by an American - Charles Goodyear Jr. – may not have its origins in this country but has been perfected on the factory floors of Northampton to such an extent that we are renowned as world leaders in it. Welts can be stitched by hand or machine and essentially mean that the sole has a firmer bond to the rest of the shoe with the advantage of being replaceable.

There are many benefits to creating shoes with this method, not only does a Goodyear welt ensure a more durable and hardwearing sole, it also improves water-resistance and, contrary to first impressions, makes shoes more comfortable to wear. 

New leather may look stiff, but the cork filling - found in the mid-sole - moulds to the wearer’s foot over time to create an almost bespoke fit within the inners. Welted shoes also allow greater flexibility of movement and the natural contours of a properly structured shoe give the wearer more support. Above all, once the soles become worn out they can be stripped away from the welt, allowing for a complete refurbishment to take place. The pair pictured below, by Crockett & Jones, recently returned from a second factory re-sole. 

Selbourne by C&J: after a second factory repair their good as-new look is testament to the quality and value of Goodyear welted shoes.

Of course, this is not to say that shoes manufactured by different means in other countries with strong leather crafting traditions – Italy and Spain for example - are without merit, only that Goodyear welting seems to produce the most reliable footwear for our climate. 

The general public however, largely under-appreciate the shoe trade in this country. There is a reluctance to value the shoemaking heritage we have on our doorstep in favour of cheap high street imports. Footwear for many men is simply an afterthought, and footwear that is a cut above the rest simply doesn’t register.

Shoes should be the anchor of a man’s wardrobe. Even without an interest in fashion, a well made pair of brogues or oxfords are a versatile and practical must. They will serve you time and again. Shoes make or break the best and worst of outfits; anything substandard spoils even the most expensive designer suit while a good quality pair can rescue the most haphazard dresser from the brink of embarrassment. 

Nowhere does the notion ‘buy cheap buy twice’ ring truer than in regard to what we cover our feet with. Yet this idea is dismissed as a load of old cobblers by those who scoff at spending anything over £50 on shoes. 

It’s always astounding to witness some of the baffling attitudes that exist around footwear. Some men seem to expect the maximum longevity and performance from their shoes for the minimum price. It all boils down to perception of value. If we consider how many times Goodyear welted shoes can be repaired the shock of the initial price pales in comparison to the ethical and financial waste of replacing pair upon pair of cheap, synthetic, glued-soled alternatives. Consider, also, how willing people are to fork out thousands of pounds on technology and cars that seem to date and decrease in market value almost instantly, not to mention their on-going costs. A pair of well-made boots or shoes on the other hand, if properly looked after, can last for many years and will only improve with age. 

Any object that’s been made with care and attention demands to be taken care of and shoes are no exception. It may seem laughable to some readers of this blog, but there is nothing more therapeutic and satisfying than taking some polish, a dash of water and using some elbow grease to work your shoes into a mirror-like shine. Try it once - we promise you won’t look back. Your shoes will glimmer and stand out from the crowd while compliments will come flooding in. 

It’s often said that the devil is in the details and that shoes are the first thing noted about an individual’s appearance. A man who can lavish the time and attention to make something as ‘trivial’ as his footwear gleam and stand out will seem like he has the rest of the world at his feet.

Oh, and one last golden tip to make your shoes go the distance - remember to put your shoetrees in when you take them off! 

Here's (above and below) our pick of six pairs to put your best foot forward in… 

Cheaney Boughton

Church's Pembrey

Crockett & Jones Lowndes

Crockett & Jones Belgrave

Reads Tricker's Green

Some British shoemakers
For more see Grey Fox's directory of UK-made menswear.
Tricker’s

Crockett & Jones
Cheaney
Church’s
Sanders
Barker