I recently visited Kettering to see the Loake footwear factory. As a blogger, I've had the privilege of visiting several factories around England and Scotland. All were similar in many ways: the smell of oil, the sounds, the ordered but well-worn furnishings and machinery, the quiet focus of the workers, their enthusiasm and care and the breathtaking expertise shown in those quick, deft movements used by those totally familiar with their work.
All were proud of their work, from managers, owner, designers to those working on the factory floor. All were gratifyingly busy and it's good to see the continuing growth of British fashion manufacturing.
I own three pairs of Loake, all made on last 024/F, which just suits my foot shape. It was interesting to be shown the last on which these would have been made (pictured above).
Loake has been a family business since 1880 and I spent time with Andrew Loake, whose great-grandfather opened the factory. Loake is almost the only shoe factory left in Kettering. Andrew's father remembered when there were at least thirty footwear factories and associated tanneries and industries in the town. One other has recently opened up; a sign, hopefully, of the world-wide growth of British-made menswear.
Shown round by Factory Manager Brendon Drage-Dawes, I watched as shoes were made from the first cutting of the leather, to the construction of the Goodyear-welted soles and uppers around the last and on to the finishing and polishing before packing and despatch.
The size of the factory surprised me, but each shoe goes through some 230 stages during the manufacturing process. Much of the work is done entirely by hand to remarkable tolerances by highly-skilled and experienced men and women.
Seeing the processes drives home the sheer quality of the product. These are shoes made to last; a synthesis of high quality materials and 300 year-old tried and tested construction methods. There are no cheap gluing techniques, only processes designed to make a durable and comfortable shoe.
Increasing capacity is given over to refurbishing of shoes for the large number of customers who send them in for repair. What they get back is virtually a new shoe, re-heeled, re-soled and polished.
Loake has a factory in India, to which they send components which are made into shoes (designed in Kettering) to similar quality to those made in England. This enables them to offer a lower-priced shoe of good quality to those looking for this rather than a full-British-made shoe. The company believe that it is important to be totally transparent about the origin of their shoes, as Andrew Loake discusses in this article on the Loake website.
As with all my factory visits, I came away fired with enthusiasm for the quality of British manufacture. But 99% of the footwear we buy in Britain is made abroad. Hopefully I can instead persuade you to try a piece of British-made craftsmanship.
For more about Loake, or to buy their shoes or find a local stockist, see the Loake website.
Great post, great images, and great brand. I'm after a new pair. Glad you finally got to visit them.
ReplyDeleteBuckets & Spades
What a cool post! Your photos capture the creation of shoe-making so well.
ReplyDeletexo,
Amber
www.allthecute.com
As a man of a similar vintage, i'm enjoying reading your blog for tips, although not everything would suit a dour Scottish man!
ReplyDelete. I own four pairs of Loakes, including the Chesters in one of the pictures, and they are lovely shoes.
I just bought my first pair of Loakes (Tan Chester Brogues) because of one your posts. Loving them.
ReplyDeleteI have a pair of Loake Wharfedale's from the 1880 range. An absolute joy to wear. Thanks for highlighting this wonderful company, long may they run!
ReplyDeleteA nice article which does justice to all of those at Loake. Having been around the factory myself and seen the work involved I am astounded that their shoes are so reasonably priced.
ReplyDeleteIncidentally Loake also make a small range of ladies shoes and boots which should not be overlooked. My wife has a couple of pairs which always attract positive comment.
In 2007 I went into a little shoe shop in Sydenham, East London, owned by a Turkish Cypriat gentleman. There I purchased a magnificent pair of black Chelsea boots made by Loakes. Every time I put them on I can feel the quality and comfort. After eight years they still look like a 'million dollars'. Recently, on a business trip to Johannesburg, my friends said "Wow, where did you get those?" When the British do decide to make a top-notch product, they really do it right.
ReplyDeleteI love Loake and this post only proved their claims that their shoes are handmade! To me, Loake is just one of those brands that really takes a lot of focus on the quality and materials used - love it!
ReplyDeleteHi David,
ReplyDeleteHow much closing is going on there these days, do you know?
Only ask as there is a comment on the Loake site in response to a question, by Andrew to the effect that the uppers of even the 1880 range are now cut and stitched in India before being sent back to Kettering. This means that the 1880 range are no longer wholly made in the UK which I believed to be the case. There's no mention of the Indian link to that range on the website which I find disappointing.