Turnbull & Asser: a visit to their English shirt factory

A trip to Gloucester to see the Turnbull & Asser shirt factory last month added to my growing list of visits to great British menswear manufacturing centres. Founded in 1885, Turnbull & Asser quickly established itself as a leading tailor and shirtmaker and today holds an enviable place in the history and tradition of British menswear. With a Royal Warrant granted to HRH The Prince of Wales (who occasionally turns up to make his own shirts, see image below) and shops in central London and New York, the brand goes from strength to strength.

A visit to their factory shows why they do so well. The picture above of Prince Charles, who has worn their shirts for years, is proudly displayed in reception. Next to that is a wall of photos of long-serving employees. This loyalty reflects the care that Turnbull & Asser takes of those whose skills are so essential to what they do. Without the studied attention to detail, so obvious as I looked round and spoke to people working there, the shirts would be very ordinary. The skills of the machinists, the pride and attention given to steps such as sewing on buttons (Turnbull & Asser's process means they almost never fall off) means that they produce shirts that are among the best you can find, whether you buy off the peg or bespoke.

Images taken on my Turnbull & Asser factory tour - remarkable skills and care

The level of individual attention is remarkable. You can specify everything from shapes of collars and cuffs, stitching colour, buttons, cut and fit. It's no wonder customers keep coming back. The quality of the cloths is clear, soft, silky cotton makes these a pleasure to own and wear. And if your shirts wears out in years to come, it can be repaired as pieces of the cloth are carefully stored for future repairs.

Cutting collars and cuffs

Shirt account for some 60% of sales, with knitwear, pyjamas and underwear (also made at the Gloucester factory) and tailoring account for most of the balance. I was recently in touch with their Designer, Dean Gomilsek-Cole, in connection with a piece I was writing for The Rake and his design vision for the company promises much for this very British company. He is aware of the great competitiveness of this market and sees the need to offer quality and style that are unrivalled.

To find out more about Turnbull & Asser, see their website here.

[Note: Turnbull & Asser paid most of my fare to Worcester. Otherwise this post is unsponsored; my comments on the shirts are from observation, not ownership or wearing.]

'Bergamotto Positano' a new fragrance for men from Floris

I haven't covered many fragrances on the blog and that needs to change. I use after-shave balms and fragrances a little and am increasingly appreciating the subtle scents of some of the best (often British-made) products for men. As a newcomer to this world, I claim no expertise, but I know what I like and will bring you a few favourites when I can.

Sadly the technology is yet to exist that will enable me to waft a sample of a chosen fragrance to you sitting at your laptop, so you will have to imagine this new eau de parfum from Floris, called Bergamotto Positano. It's a subtle blend of citrus and vanilla which gradually tones down to a quiet collection of Mediterranean-inspired scents in which, for me, lemon and vanilla dominate and which linger without cloying with a delicate gingery sweetness. The official description reads, 'Top Notes: Bergamot, Marine, Mandarin. Heart Notes: Green Tea, Orange Blossom, Ginger, Vanilla. Base Notes: Amber, Spice, Ambrette, Woods, Vanilla'. This is a sophisticated product which you should try for yourself and, indeed, share with the love of your life, as it's a unisex fragrance. 

It's made by request, so is of limited availability. Its exclusiveness will appeal to many as it's hand-blended by Floris, family perfumers since 1730, at their Jermyn Street premises in London. Cost £160 for 100ml; note that stock is limited. For more information, visit Floris.

Floris also offer bespoke services that enable you to be be a guest of Floris while exploring and developing your own fragrance, meeting a member of the Floris family and enjoying a glass of champagne. More details from Floris.

Video: Peregrine Clothing made in England from British wool and fabrics

Knowing my love for British-made menswear (and factory visits), family-owned Peregrine Clothing, founded in 1796, have kindly given Grey Fox Blog readers an exclusive preview of this video showing their clothes being manufactured at their factory in England using British wool and fabrics. For more on their innovative ranges of men's and women's knitwear see Peregrine Clothing.

Military-inspired embroidered pins from Alice Made This

I've seen and admired the work of some of London's military tailors, so this new project from Alice Made This caught my eye. Inspired by the intricate gold and silver embroidery used on ceremonial military uniforms, she has produced a range of lapel pins.

Military embroidered goldwork from Hand & Lock

Alice has worked with London-based Hand & Lock to produce the range using goldwork embroidery techniques and building on the graphic nature of their designs to form a clean, geometric collection.

There's a great shortage of good lapel pins and this is an area of men's jewellery many of us have yet to explore. It's good to see such fascinating military-inspired products being produced. 

Made in England and priced from around £175 to £220 from Alice Made This.

Desirable objects: Worcestershire Leather Company British-made khaki webbing belt

I'm lucky enough to have had another belt made for me by the leather belt guru, Tim Hardy of The Worcestershire Leather Company. Longer term readers may recall my last one here, which continues to get better with age (as do all men, and anything else made of quality leather).

The Worcestershire Bruton bridle leather and webbing belt - made in England

This belt is entirely handmade and sewn from English bridle leather (it even had that lovely waxy bloom when it was brand new) in sixteen or more separate processes. The British-made heavy cotton webbing make it ideal as a spring/summer belt. Naturally it is completed by an English solid brass buckle (or nickel plated brass if you prefer a silver finish). This is a belt for life.

It comes in a choice of 11 leather colours and 5 webbing colours and can be ordered in different widths. Give Tim your size and it will come made to measure. This, as you would expect, is a seriously high quality British belt. See The Worcestershire Leather Company for more information and to buy.

Spring & summer knitwear from Realm & Empire, made in Britain

The recent spring cold snap shows how true is the old saw, 'Ne'er cast a clout 'til May is out'. Whether 'may' refers to the month or to may blossom is unclear, but the truth is that, in the UK anyway, spring and early summer can't be trusted and a warm layer should always be on hand.

Realm & Empire's lightweight knitwear is made in the UK in merino or lambswool. Below is the denim-coloured Mona merino cardigan, inspired by the Duxford cardigan which I wrote about here, but made lighter for spring/summer use.

Realm & Empire Mona Merino Cardigan £120

Below is the Digby merino waffle crew which can be worn over a shirt or base layer. Available in denim blue or silver grey, it's designed and made in Leicestershire to be a versatile and lightweight knit for warmer weather (link to buy below).

Digby merino crew in denim blue or silver grey (below) £100

All  are ideal with jeans, summer trousers or even shorts with deck shoes, Converse or canvas shoes. Available from Realm & Empire or various stockists. 

Campbell Cole's small leather collection: designed and made in England

I've been impressed before by the quality and attention to detail of Campbell Cole's leather products. For spring/summer 2015 their Simple Collection includes an iPhone 6 case and comes in black, grey and tan. 

Campbell Cole Simple Collection card holder, wallet and key fold

I've used one of their key folds for a couple of years now and, like all quality leather products, it gets better as the patina of age develops. This is British design and manufacture at its best from two young designers. See Campbell Cole for more information or to buy. Have a look also at their beautiful leather bags and totes.

Simple Collection iPhone 6 case

Cravat Club: Made in England cravats and pocket squares and new Blog Sponsor

I'm delighted to welcome and thank Cravat Club as a sponsor for the blog as I look for funds to improve the blog for readers and brands I work with. They will be no strangers to readers as I've mentioned them before. Their cleverly-curated range of English-made cravats and pocket squares appeal to all tastes and styles and are well-displayed on their brand-new website here.

Please support Cravat Club and Grey Fox Blog by clicking on Cravat Club's advert on the right or by visiting their new website to browse and buy.

Marwood SS15 - menswear accessories made in the UK

Marwood's gentle made-in-England accessories appeal to me because they are different. Their look book for their SS15 collection features John Tebbs of The Garden Edit which sells highly stylish goods to the keen gardener. Marwood's soft colours and textures go well in such surroundings. The photography is by Arianna Lago.

To see Marwood's collection of exquisitely-made British accessories, including ties, bow ties, scarves and pocket squares, click here. 

Thrashion - men's accessories made from recycled skateboards

Thrashion recycle broken skateboards to make a variety of accessories, jewellery and homewares for men and women. 'Nuff said really: I love the idea and products; see the cuff links below. Go to Thrashion to browse, commission a bespoke piece or to find out more.

Rampley & Co pocket squares: Macclesfield silk

One of the pleasures of curating this blog is coming across another young, entrepreneurial, British menswear business committed to manufacture in the UK. Rampley & Co fits this mould, making a variety of pocket squares from Macclesfield silk and other materials, such as Harris tweed.

They have produced several designs and it initially was their Fine Art Collection that caught my eye. Developed in collaboration with the Tate in London, they reproduce dramatic works of art by John Singleton Copley, J.M.W. Turner and John Martin (seen in that order below).

The Death of Major Peirson 6 January 1681 (at the Battle of Jersey)

The Battle of Trafalgar, as Seen from the Mizen Starboard Shrouds of the Victory

The Destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum

The squares are made of high quality silk with hand-rolled edges and are ideal for folding or stuffing into your top pocket. At 42cm square, they are an ideal size, not too small, not too large. The benefit of a large, colourful and irregular pattern, such as these, is that you can fold it in many ways to create a wide variety of top pocket looks.

There is much more to come from Rampley & Co. This collection and others can be found on their website here.

Quantock Clothing - jeans made in England

It's always a pleasure to report on British-made denims. These jeans are made in England for Quantock Clothing. As of May 2016, Quantock are offering a £16 discount on these jeans with the discount code GREYFOX - see link below.

The denim is robust but not harsh, the fit is ideal, slim, but not too so and the waist is comfortably-placed: you won't feel like an inmate of the US penal system with the them hanging somewhere around your lower backside, as is too often the case.

They are designed and made in England from Japanese selvedge denim woven on looms for a tighter and denser weave by the Kuroki Company in Okayama, Japan. There are two styles to chose from - rinse washed (or indigo jeans), or classic stonewashed finished. Highly-recommended. See Quantock Clothing.

Loake: a visit to their Kettering factory

I recently visited Kettering to see the Loake footwear factory. As a blogger, I've had the privilege of visiting several factories around England and Scotland. All were similar in many ways: the smell of oil, the sounds, the ordered but well-worn furnishings and machinery, the quiet focus of the workers, their enthusiasm and care and the breathtaking expertise shown in those quick, deft movements used by those totally familiar with their work. 

All were proud of their work, from managers, owner, designers to those working on the factory floor. All were gratifyingly busy and it's good to see the continuing growth of British fashion manufacturing.

I own three pairs of Loake, all made on last 024/F, which just suits my foot shape. It was interesting to be shown the last on which these would have been made (pictured above).

Loake has been a family business since 1880 and I spent time with Andrew Loake, whose great-grandfather opened the factory. Loake is almost the only shoe factory left in Kettering. Andrew's father remembered when there were at least thirty footwear factories and associated tanneries and industries in the town. One other has recently opened up; a sign, hopefully, of the world-wide growth of British-made menswear.

Shown round by Factory Manager Brendon Drage-Dawes, I watched as shoes were made from the first cutting of the leather, to the construction of the Goodyear-welted soles and uppers around the last and on to the finishing and polishing before packing and despatch. 

The size of the factory surprised me, but each shoe goes through some 230 stages during the manufacturing process. Much of the work is done entirely by hand to remarkable tolerances by highly-skilled and experienced men and women. 

Seeing the processes drives home the sheer quality of the product. These are shoes made to last; a synthesis of high quality materials and 300 year-old tried and tested construction methods. There are no cheap gluing techniques, only processes designed to make a durable and comfortable shoe.

Increasing capacity is given over to refurbishing of shoes for the large number of customers who send them in for repair. What they get back is virtually a new shoe, re-heeled, re-soled and polished.

Loake has a factory in India, to which they send components which are made into shoes (designed in Kettering) to similar quality to those made in England. This enables them to offer a lower-priced shoe of good quality to those looking for this rather than a full-British-made shoe. The company believe that it is important to be totally transparent about the origin of their shoes, as Andrew Loake discusses in this article on the Loake website.

As with all my factory visits, I came away fired with enthusiasm for the quality of British manufacture. But 99% of the footwear we buy in Britain is made abroad. Hopefully I can instead persuade you to try a piece of British-made craftsmanship.

For more about Loake, or to buy their shoes or find a local stockist, see the Loake website.

Lavenham jackets, made in England

Entering its forty-sixth year, Lavenham can claim to be on the proud list of classic British clothing manufacturers. Starting in 1969 making quilted horse blankets, it branched out into country clothing; the quilted waistcoats and jackets, much loved by the riding and country set. But things have developed further and the company has had collaborations with Kenzo, Look Mum No Hands, Hackett and others. New owners, Fred Perry, see a worldwide market for the brand and it's good to see another British manufacturer taking such an ambitious approach.

Always keen to support British menswear companies, I tried one of their jackets, choosing something a little different from their usual offering of stylish nylon quilted coats. The Harlow is faced with British tweed. Modelled on a blazer shape, it has patch pockets, a quilted lining and a soft-shouldered and generous cut that makes it both comfortable and practical to wear with layers in cold weather. A good alternative to a pea coat or waxed jacket, it retails at £243 (reduced from £325) and, like the rest of the range, is made at their Suffolk factory.

I've found that this jacket is now the first thing I reach for if there is a chill in the air. I'd like to have seen internal pockets for wallet, phone etc, but this isn't a deal breaker for me. This is a versatile coat, which I've found to be very much at home on city streets or in the country. 

If, like me, you like to watch videos of how things are made, you may like this one:

Lavenham is proud of its British heritage and its origins in the equine world of Suffolk. As with so many brands that started by making practical, working products, the result has been clothes that are well-tested in use and with the addition of a bit of stylish design, have translated successfully into an attractive collection that's a little different and fun to wear. British materials are used wherever possible and design and manufacture are kept in-house. I hope that, under its new owners,  Lavenham preserves the very English nature of the brand.

See Lavenham to find out more, or to buy.

Loake shoes made in England - a video

Last week I visited Loake Shoes in Kettering. I'll be reporting on a fascinating visit soon. Meanwhile, here's a video that shows some of what I saw - British shoemaking at its best. 

For more information, or to buy from their wide range of men's shoes, go to Loake.

Jones the Bootmakers - Cheaney Fenchurch shoes made in England

Jones the Bootmaker was established in 1857 and has a firm presence on our high streets around the UK. Their strength is the wide range of men's shoes that they sell, from lower-priced to shoes hand-made in Northampton, England like these calf-leather Joseph Cheaney & Sons Fenchurch Oxfords with brogue punched detail, worn here with a blue pinstripe suit.

They have a Goodyear-welted leather sole and a slim, elegant shape that goes well with a formal or semi-formal style. Like all Cheaney shoes, these are very comfortable and will provide a shoe for life if properly looked after. 

The selection of styles at Jones the Bootmaker appeals to men of all ages and it's hard to go into one of their stores without finding something that suits. If you can't get to one of their shops, visit their website to find what you need. 

Click to find the Cheaney Fenchurch shoes here.

Private White VC at London Collections:Men

Readers with good memories may remember how much I enjoyed my visit last year to the Private White V.C. factory in Manchester. A dyed-in-the-wool British manufacturer, PWVC quickly established itself last year with a factory shop and a new store in London's Duke Street to join that in Lamb's Conduit Street.

(All images Grey Fox Blog)

Under the design direction of Nick Ashley, it has developed its collection rapidly from being an outerwear specialist to selling a wide selection of casual wear and has collaborated with other British manufacturers to produce knitwear and shirts. 

Due in AW15 too are unstructured suits (above), slightly more formal in nature than the work wear suits they sell at the moment. The collection for AW15 varies between work wear, through military and country-inspired outerwear to smart casual suits and jackets.

I think the future looks good for PWVC and the cherry on the icing is that they make in Britain. The company has deserved the royal recognition it received when The Princess Royal visited last year.  See Private White VC.

Friday Favourite: Tusting Clipper leather bag made in England

I'd been looking for a useful bag for months. It had to be a comfortable shoulder bag, not too bulky, and take what I need for blogging; a camera, notebook, pens, newspaper, phone, bottle of water and biscuits for emergencies. And, of course, it had to look stylish. 

I chose the Tusting Clipper in Aztec crazyhorse, an attractive leather finish that prevents the bag looking too formal. It has a compact, yet roomy, shape and is now in use for everything from blogging to shopping.

A well-designed bag that is highly recommended. Made in a Buckinghamshire village by Tusting. For more about this family business, visit their website here and buy a bag for life (they'll maintain it for you as well).

And until Christmas visit the pop-up shop at 39 Jermyn Street London where Tusting is joined by a number of the best Made in England menswear suppliers, including Marwood, Alice Made This and Hamilton & Hare.

Broughton boots - support a new venture and buy bargain English-made boots

It's not every day that a new English boot brand comes along. You can support Broughton Boots on Kickstarter with the opportunity to buy a hand-made and customised pair of boots for around £175, depending on what package you go for (they're understandably going fast, so be quick). They're made in Northampton (where else?) and you can choose from a range of colours and construction options. 

I don't need to say more, really. I'm surprised there are any left, especially as they'll eventually retail for a still sensible £325.

Go to Kickstarter to read the wonderful story, see the video, find out more and order your boots.

Cravat Club pocket squares

Cravat Club, so well-known for their made in England silk cravats, has introduced a range of pocket squares. Available in a wide range of tempting colours, there is something here for everyone, from traditional to more modern designs.

Every man should own a pocket square; they are no longer the preserve of the dandy. They add a splash of colour to a suit or blazer and enable you to send out a signal about your mood and tastes. Used to pick out colours in socks, tie or knitwear, a well-chosen hank will pull together an otherwise diverse outfit. 

In the image below, I've selected my favourite purple, orange and green Paisley design, the Romain. Priced from £30, they come in woven and printed silk and make excellent Christmas gifts. 

See Cravat Club for more information and to buy.