A Corduroy Suit: Made to Measure by Alexandra Wood Bespoke

I've featured corduroy here on the blog a few times over the years. I wear it a lot, trousers in particular, but have long wanted a corduroy suit. A collaboration with Alexandra Wood Bespoke has at last made this possible and I'm now the owner of a navy blue suit.

Alexandra Wood made to measure corduroy suit

Alex recently expanded her tailoring business from her Bishops Stortford store and last year opened in Shoreditch. She also sees clients in Savile Row and is responsible for the dapper suits of Rory Bremner and Labour MP, Chukka Umunna. She offers made to measure and bespoke services (there's a tailor based at her shop in Cheshire Street, Shoreditch). It was here that I met her to be measured for my suit.

Alex had originally suggested a wool suit, but was more than happy to accommodate my request for a made to measure corduroy creation. She loves making clothes for men and I totally agree with her view that dressing well is the best way for a man to make himself attractive and sexy. Somehow it's very gratifying being told that you look great in your new suit by a woman tailor; the message doesn't quite have the impact when it comes from a man.

I selected a navy blue corduroy cloth from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, an attractive two-tone lining in a blue/red and, as I usually do, real horn buttons. Some weeks later I saw Alex again for a fitting and, a few tweaks later, the suit was mine. 

I love wearing corduroy because it's fundamentally casual in nature. It's a cloth with a relaxed feel to it and adopts an attractive character as it's worn in. This makes it it ideal for the relatively new concept of what I call a 'casual suit': the suit you can wear with or without a tie for less formal use.

As a made to measure suit, it was made from a pattern (block) which was adapted to fit my measurements. I asked Alex to make the shoulders fairly soft - not too padded - and that is what I got. I selected details like the number and type of buttons and pockets, the colour of the lining and the cut and length of coat and trousers. The trousers are on the slim side, but dimensions like the width of the leg are all adjustable to the wishes of the customer and fuller trouser legs can be cut if needed. The corduroy is soft and comfortable and a beautiful deep blue colour. 

A made to measure suit represents excellent value in terms of pounds spent to quality of fit.  Prices usually start at little more than good quality off-the-peg suit but the fit will be far better. My suit would cost you £950. A bespoke suit (where the process would be much more time consuming, with more measurements and fittings, some hand stitching and a greater choice of details resulting in a perfect fit), would cost around £3,000.

Alex offers not only tailoring services but a selection of stylish ready-to-wear products. See her website here.

This was a collaboration with Alexandra Wood. I am working with Alex on her spring/summer collection and look forward to introducing you to that soon.

Exploring True Bespoke Tailoring 1: Introducing a Collaboration with Brita Hirsch Tailor

I've recently had the huge pleasure and privilege of collaborating with Brita Hirsch, tailor, to make a Norfolk jacket designed to show the best of bespoke tailoring. Over the next few months we'll use this project to illustrate the extraordinary craftsmanship, time, materials and skills that go into making a true bespoke garment.

Brita Hirsch, bespoke tailor, at work

Brita and I met a couple of years ago with a view to producing a suit made from British-woven cloth made from wool from British sheep. That project wasn't completed, although Brita has recently produced a British merino cloth (but that's another story: see The Great Northern Cloth here and also on the blog here).

The term 'bespoke' is much abused, often used to describe made-to-measure products which are produced without the handwork, time and skills found in bespoke tailoring. In this series, which starts with the image below, Brita and I will describe the making of a truly bespoke garment.

The photograph above, one of my favourites, was taken in the 1920s by German photographer August Sander. It shows a provincial schoolmaster with his dog. I loved his Norfolk jacket. He's clearly very comfortable wearing it. The soft slope of the shoulder with a slight roll at the top of the sleeve, the elegantly crumpled tweed and the superb fit all suggest a skilled tailor. After some discussion Brita and I agreed that working on a similar piece would give her ample opportunity to illustrate a tailor's skills.

I was keen to have a wool coat that I could wear outdoors from the fells of Cumbria to our local park in London. I'm outside every day for at least two hours, walking Harry, my labrador retriever. I need a coat that's warm, breathable and water resistant. Harris tweed provides all these properties, while having the potential to be tailored into something far more stylish than much of the modern outdoor wear available on our high streets. 

The Norfolk jacket has a long history as an outdoor coat for country sports and mountaineering; an early example of a technical garment with a very practical purpose, to keep the wearer warm and dry, while providing mobility through its construction and storage in its large pockets

From the Harris Tweed Hebrides mill came the cloth for our Norfolk coat - Image Grey Fox Blog

Early last year I visited The Outer Hebrides at the invitation of The Harris Tweed Authority. That visit was described on the blog last year (link below). I came away with a few meters of beautiful conker brown tweed from the Shawbost mill of Harris Tweed Hebrides, full of the colours of the Hebrides, from the white of the sandy beaches, the blue of the sky, the orange of the heather and the yellow of the gorse. This tweed would be used to make the coat and this process will be described in detail over several instalments here on the blog.

We've also been able to collaborate with Macclesfield Adamley Textiles who kindly gave us access to the David Evans (no relation) silk archives so we could select a silk which they then redesigned and screen-printed for the coat's lining. Brita and I are very grateful to them for their generosity and support. Full story next time.

So our project began and in the next instalment of our series Brita covers the first aspect of the bespoke process; the choice of materials.

For other features in the Exploring Bespoke series here on the blog, click here.

Links:
Brita Hirsch of Hirsch Tailoring
Adamley Textiles
Harris Tweed Hebrides
The Harris Tweed Authority
My trip to Harris Tweed: A Journey to the Heart of the Hebrides

With thanks to photographer Fiona Bailey whose images appear throughout this project.

Artefact London: Bespoke Overcoat Review

Earlier this year Artefact London, founded by young entrepreneur, Tatyana Kozhevnikova, made me a summer suit. So successful was it that I was delighted when she offered to make me a winter coat. My wardrobe is sparse in that department. I have an off-the-peg high street coat, but sadly, while made of a gorgeous English cloth, it follows the high street trend for being too short. The great advantage of having a coat made to your specifications is that you can choose details like length, cloth, lapel and collar shape, button configuration etc to ensure that you get what you need. And I certainly got that.

Many of us would think of visiting a tailor to have a suit or jacket made, but it's less common to have an overcoat tailored. Yet the advantages are obvious. Quite apart from the comment I've already made about high street coats being generally too short (so your thighs get cold and wet), sizing is often hit and miss. This problem is overcome with bespoke/made to measure and you can also select cloth, fit and shape as well as exciting details like lining and buttons to finish off your creation.

I was surprised how far the customisation process could go, with almost any detail being at the whim of the customer, starting with the basic shape of the coat (see here for the main shapes on which your coat is built - I chose the ulster). As before, Tatyana was an excellent guide to style, shape, detail and cloth selection. I went for an English herringbone wool from Bateman Ogden with a wonderful red lining with foxes, labradors and deer (all animals that rule my life) and beautiful horn buttons. Tatyana had my measurements from the suit, but took a few additional ones for the coat length and some four weeks later my coat arrived.

As with the suit, it turned out to be perfect the first time and I didn't need any further alterations to make it fit. The coat is made to be worn over a jumper or light jacket, rather than over a suit, so I asked for (and got) an elegant tailored shape. I wanted the length to be just under the knee (why have a coat that doesn't cover the upper leg?) and length and choice of cloth, as well as fit and style, have turned out to be perfect.

Developments in tailoring are fascinating, Artefact uses electronic pattern construction and laser cuts the pattern straight onto the cloth, keeping your details on file electronically for ease of future orders. When asked if this is considered to be bespoke or made to measure in the strict sense of it, Tatyana gave me her thoughts:

"Call it what you want - it is the result that counts. I make a pattern that is 100% unique to each person electronically, using an existing block, but the block is manipulated from every angle to such an extent that very few made to measure tailors do. Technology, hey! The result is a garment that is uniquely you and fits beautifully".

The result is a coat that fits, beautifully, is stylish and practical and I love. It's had some positive comment too. I highly recommend having a coat made and if you go to Artefact London you will be assured of a warm welcome and outstanding service. See Artefact London.

This coat was a collaboration with Artefact London. All views are mine alone. 

Harvie & Hudson: a Made to Measure Suit and Shirt

Harvie & Hudson are a Jermyn Street shirt makers and tailors who, after three generations, are still family-owned. Richard Harvie, the MD, is proud of their traditional but very contemporary approach to men's style. The store changes markedly from season to season, from bright linens and cottons on spring/summer to rich autumn/winter tweeds and knitwear as the weather turns colder. There is something about the style and design on the clothing that makes it stand out, offering something both for the man who prefers to blend in and the more extrovert.

Made to Measure from Harvie & Hudson

I tested Harvie & Hudson's made to measure tailoring and shirtmaking services recently. The customer is measured in store by an expert cutter and the shirts are made in London. The process is detailed and changes are made to the cut and fit after the first fitting if alterations are needed. I selected a fine cotton stripe (below), but the range of Italian and British shirting cloths is wide. I wanted a rather vintage look to the shirt and achieved this with an uneven pale blue and red stripe in a relaxed fit which can be worn with knitwear and jeans or a suit and tie.

Trying on the new shirt, fresh from the shirtmakers

For the two-piece suit (below) I selected a Teviot tweed from Lovat Mill in Scotland. The tweed is rich in colour, with autumnal tans and browns highlighted by greens, sky blue and lavender overchecks and accents. I asked for a single-breasted two button jacket of fairly traditional cut, with  trousers cut slightly on the slim side and a moderately deep turn-up. Both shirt and suit fitted well at the first fitting and I felt that no further changes were needed. The suit is a pleasure to wear and the colour and cut of the tweed attract many compliments. There have been no shortcuts with the quality of the buttons and tailoring.

The Teviot Tweed from Lovat Mill, Scotland

To see the range of styles, colours and cloths available both off-the-peg and made to measure visit Harvie & Hudson in Jermyn Street, London or go online here. If you live in the USA and fancy and some genuine British tailoring heritage and style, Harvie & Hudson visit several cities around the country. Further information can be obtained through their website.

This is a collaboration with Harvie & Hudson

A British Wool Tweed Suit: A Collaboration with Woven In The Bone & McCann Bespoke

Sam Goates of Woven in the Bone weaves cloth in Scotland. She has wide experience of the industry and designed merino wool products in Australia before returning in 2007 to Scotland, where she was born. While developing training for Harris tweed weavers, she experienced at first hand the Hattersley looms (see last week's blog feature on Harris tweed) which, despite (or perhaps thanks to) their Victorian engineering, enable craftsmen to weave high quality cloth at home. She decided to bring together all her experience to weave cloth herself.

Above Sam Goates at her loom and the British wool tweed

I was lucky enough to meet Sam and we decided to collaborate to produce a British suit, made from wool produced from British sheep. Originally the plan was to have the suit entirely made in this country. In the event it was beautifully tailored by McCann Bespoke (see below), albeit not in the UK, giving me a suit that represents the multiple skills that go to make a suit, from the farmer who raises the sheep, the shearer, the industries that wash, dye, blend, card and spin the yarn to prepare it for weaving to, finally, the skilled weaver, warping the yarn and then, in the spinning process, adding the weft and producing a cloth of beauty and character for clothes, interiors or other uses. (All links are at the end of this feature).

A suit from British wool, woven by Woven in the Bone, tailored by McCann Bespoke

Sam, who still spends some of her time at Harris Tweed Hebrides, is a master of her craft. Her cloths are being discovered all over the UK, and from Savile Row to the provinces, tailors are discovering her products. She also offers bespoke design and manufacture and the rich colours and patterns of her clothes give the possibility of owning a suit made from a cloth made to your specifications - a novel and unique side to suit ownership.

I asked Sam to tell me more about marketing her cloths: 

"From my perspective, I hope that what I am offering to tailors and ultimately their clients, is complimentary to the traditional cloth offering from the British cloth merchants, encouraging clients to explore options for bespoke tailoring outside of traditional city suits.

"My cloth is handcrafted using traditional, artisan skills and production mthods, but provides a contemporary alternative, offering a softer, more relaxed Saxony tweed reflecting the trend towards more flexible office/social wear.  

With personalised and transparent small batch production, it is ‘cloth to connect with’…. for added value to a truly bespoke experience. I offer a design service to tailors & their clients and custom-design cloths in lengths from 6m-60m can be commissioned for those looking for a truly unique and individual piece or for a business wanting to develop their own house cloth".

I selected a beautiful oatmeal herringbone tweed for my suit (pictured above). Undyed, its colours are from the natural colours of the fleece. As Sam describes it:

"I think the “Native” quality cloth that David selected works particularly well for promotion of bespoke suits for the huge market in more rustic, ‘field weddings’... Its made from 100% naturally coloured British wool and in an authentic British classic herringbone tweed that comes straight from the land (I’m tempted to sa, with no artificial colours or preservatives!)"

McCann Bespoke (link below) is on Shaftesbury Avenue London and Neil McCann has a healthy clientele among professional sportsmen, who appreciate quality when they see it. As with many tailors, they offer different grades of tailoring, with the higher end, fully bespoke, involving a very high percentage of hand stitching. 

Images taken at the basted fitting of the suit at McCann Bespoke

They made my suit beautifully, the quality of construction, fit and stitching is very high. Their shop is a lively and fascinating place and at each fitting I bumped into a well-known sportsman. Tweed suits are becoming popular for weddings in particular and McCann's enthusiasm for my slightly unusual request - a suit made from Sam Goates's artisan tweed - was positive and genuine. I can't recommend McCann Bespoke more highly and their flexible pricing enables you to have a suit made at a variety of price points.

Tailoring detail and the finished suit

This feature was a collaboration with Woven in the Bone and McCann Bespoke. All views are mine alone.

An Invitation to You All: 27th September 2017

I'm involved in an exciting project with Brita Hirsch, tailor, to explore and describe the art of bespoke tailoring. Brita is making a Norfolk jacket for me from a piece of Harris tweed which I was given by Harris Tweed Hebrides on my visit to the islands earlier this year.

On Wednesday 27th September, Ludwig Reiter are hosting two linked events. First is a Tailoring Afternoon from 15.00 to 19.00 at which Brita Hirsch will explore tailoring. Secondly, from 19.00 I will join Brita and we will describe our project in detail and discuss bespoke tailoring, quality and craftsmanship. 

Here's the invitation. I hope you can attend:

Ludwig Reiter looks forward to welcoming you to an exclusive event

with Hirsch Tailoring. The bespoke ladies and gentleman’s tailor is known to combine heritage materials and shares our passion for craftsmanship.

(1) 27th September 2017 

Tailoring Afternoon

3pm – 7pm

Meet Brita Hirsch and explore the art of bespoke tailoring 

over a glass of champagne.

(2) 27th September 2017 

‘In Conversation: Tailoring & Craftsmanship‘ Evening 

7pm – 9pm

David Evans, men's style blogger and founder of Grey Fox Blog, leads an inspirational talk with tailor Brita Hirsch. Please join us for a champagne reception.

As space is very limited, please RSVP for the ‘afternoon’ or ‘evening’

LUDWIG REITER STORE

6 Brook Street 

LONDON

W1S 1BB

london@ludwig-reiter.com

0203 302 3421

King & Allen: Tailors

When I went to King & Allen Tailors for a suit I had in mind a lightweight suit for three season use. After some thought I decided I'd like one made from that fascinating textured cotton fabric, seersucker. One of the signs of an excellent tailor is that he or she will work with the client to produce something that not only meets the client's requirement, but also is wearable and stylish. Seersucker is rarely used in the UK, but Jake Allen, a founder of the company, didn't turn a hair. I met him at King & Allen's Surbiton branch where, like any good tailor, he talked through my thoughts and made some sensible suggestions for a practical and stylish suit.

Although I'd decided on seersucker I was nearly diverted by King & Allen's huge range of cloths, from lightweight wools, tweeds, flannels, cottons in all designs and colours. As with most tailors, a large market is the man or woman looking for tailoring for a wedding. Many clients are not familiar with the possibilities and Jake Allen's knowledgable and tactful suggestions ensure that the client leaves happy with nothing he or she may regret in future.

Jake Allen is overcome by the wonderful suit he's made for me

As it happened, the navy seersucker I selected was nearly at an end; the mill (Huddersfield Fine Worsteds) had only a small amount left, but careful cutting made it adequate for my needs. A couple of fittings and the suit was perfect; exactly what I'd wanted. The double breasted jacket with slim, but not too slim, trousers with turn-ups makes an ideal suit for formal or smart casual. The seersucker has been cool in summer but not so flimsy that it isn't ideal for use as autumn chills set in. The jacket was, at my request, half-lined - and this has been done beautifully. The quality of the tailoring is high and fit and comfort are excellent. A two-piece suit in similar cloth will cost from £899.

King & Allen have several locations around the country and have to date made well over 30,000 suits. To find out more and to arrange a fitting, contact King & Allen

The cloth was from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds.

This feature is a collaboration with King & Allen. All views are mine alone.

Artefact London: Made-to-Measure Tailoring

Artefact London is a relative newcomer to the tailoring scene, but judging from the suit they've just made for me, they've hit the ground running. Founded by young entrepreneur, Tatyana Kozhevnikova, whose enthusiasm for tailoring is infectious, Artefact London focuses unashamedly on made to measure (MTM), as opposed to bespoke tailoring. The thinking behind this boils down to a balance between value for money and the quality and fit of the final product.

The completed suit from Artefact London

So great is Tatyana's belief that MTM represents good value, that she offered to make me a lightweight wool suit, confident that I would be very happy with the result - and I have to report that I am. She is very clear and honest about the key differences between MTM and bespoke, pointing out that the "pattern [was] made on a computer and laser cut...buttonholes [were] machine stitched and the floating canvas made with help of a machine, but shaped and attached by hand". A bespoke suit may have more hand stitching and more time would be spent on fittings and detail, but she points out that this additional care comes at a cost and argues that an excellent MTM suit can be made at a fraction of the cost of bespoke.

One of the most important aspects of having a suit made is how well the tailor works with the client, interpreting and gently guiding their wishes and expectations. Tatyana is excellent at this and long discussions ended up with a suit that precisely echoes my aims, but included a number of suggestions from her.

The system is flexible enough to allow multiple and often minute changes to the block, allowing the client almost exactly what they requite in terms of fit, shape and design. I asked for roped shoulders, a slightly fuller cut to the trousers and a double-breasted coat. All were delivered as I expected,

In measuring a client, Tatyana tells me, she will "look at your posture: stooping, erect or leaning forward, do you have a curve to your back or perhaps a dropped shoulder, or prominent blades? I look at the position of your arms relative to your body to eliminate any creasing around the bicep area. These are all the things that you cannot gauge with linear measurements, but will have a great impact on the fit".

Images Paul Harries

My conclusion? The suit is excellent and I'm more than happy with it - it fitted well with out any alterations. A similar suit made bespoke might cost four or five times as much. To anyone aware of the details of tailoring, the additional little touches and flourishes of a fully bespoke suit would be important enough to merit the extra cost and care. However, it would take an experienced eye to be able to see the difference between a well-made MTM suit and a bespoke one.

The pure bespoke experience is one that I'll treasure and everyone who can afford one should try it at least once. However, in terms of pure value for money (so unromantic I know) the well-made MTM suit is hard to beat. The fitting process revolves around a pre-existing block (rather than a bespoke pattern) and CAD is used to create the pattern. There is much more flexibility in the MTM process than I'd expected and it was possible to include all the little touches I wanted in the suit in terms of details like cut, lapel shape, button configuration and so on.

Having a knowledgeable and enthusiastic tailor who can guide the client as well as Tatyana does helps the process along and I'd recommend that you try Artefact London, who are based in New Bond Street, London, studio to discuss your needs.

Cloth light tan Prince of Wales check from Holland & Sherry's Cool*Breeze range in pure wool worsted. Prices from £960 for a two-piece suit. Shirts, overcoats, morning and evening wear also available.

The suit was provided for this review by Artefact London. I received no financial compensation for this review. All views expressed are my own unless otherwise stated.

A Summer Suit From Exclusive Tailoring: Made-to-Measure

Exclusive Tailoring was founded by tailor, Richard Thompson and is situated in London's West End, ideal for either the City or central London. Richard's studio is welcoming and comfortable and he has a good choice of cloths to suit all tastes and budgets. I was seeing him for the purpose of making a summer suit. We started the process back in November, when the last thing I needed was a lightweight cloth, but it meant that the suit would be ready for the first warmth of spring. 

At the fitting with Richard Thompson of Exclusive Tailoring

Richard took me through the choice and I went for a lightweight Holland & Sherry worsted in pale tan, ideal for the warmer days of summer. The made-to-measure process involves adapting an existing block, or pattern, and this involves trying on a coat and trousers and adapting the fit. The client then has a very wide range of choices of cloth, cut, shape, lining, buttons and more. The result is very personalised garment. I asked for roped shoulders and these have been carefully and skilfully added, giving the suit a touch of character. 

For the price of many off-the-peg 'designer' suits, which will always be a compromise on fit, Richard provides a suit that fits well and looks good. I will be showing the suit in more detail over the next few months on Instagram, so please follow me there to see how I use and style the suit over the warmer days of spring and summer.

A two-piece made to measure suit from Richard Thompson starts at £850 (the cost of the suit shown here), which is highly competitive. A two-piece fully bespoke suit starts at £2000. Clients can either visit Richard's studio or he will go out to them. Corporate packages are offered which will carry a discount. See Exclusive Tailoring for more information and to contact Richard.

Roped shoulders and excellent fit over shoulder and upper back

The fabric used for my suit was Holland & Sherry from their classic mohair’s bunch, 230gm 7 1/2oz 85% super 100’s worsted 15% kid Mohair. The suit was provided by Exclusive Tailoring who sponsored this post. All views expressed are mine alone.

Hardy Amies: Grey Fox reviews their made to measure service

Hardy Amies is a name that echoes through the menswear world and has done so since the middle of the last century. From number 14 Savile Row Amies himself declared, "A man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them." A comment that perfectly describes the art of dressing with style. Nowadays the Hardy Amies name is in new ownership, but the determination to allow men to dress with style is as strong as ever. 

I was recently invited to try Hardy Amies made to measure service (link below) and went through the very pleasurable process of being measured and fitted for a new suit. 

Discussing the detail while being measured for the suit

The made-to-measure suit is based on their Brinsley block; a regular suit pattern less slim than their Heddon block. However, this doesn't mean that you're restricted to a narrow range of choices in putting together your made to measure suit. You have over 200 British and Italian fine fabrics to select from, can choose double or single-breasted and have a say in other details such as collar shape, buttons, fullness of cut and so on. The guidance I received from Hardy Amies staff throughout the process was excellent; informed and helpful with knowledgable styling advice if required.

The first fitting - looking good

I selected a Dugdale (made in Yorkshire) dark blue pinstripe cloth, single-breasted with a longer coat, peak lapels (to be a little different), slightly fuller trousers with side adjusters, buttons for braces and turn-ups. All these choice are made at the initial measuring session. This is followed by one or two fittings at which the shape and style can be tweaked to arrive at the perfect fit. 

The first fitting: turn-ups or not? How long should the trousers be?

Made to measure suits cost from £995. For that I've ended up with a superb suit that feels stylish and comfortable to wear. This is a suit to put on and forget about; Hardy Amies himself would have approved. The service guarantees a beautifully made suit with a renowned pedigree at a fair price. See Hardy Amies Made to Measure for more information.

I was paid nothing for this post. This suit was made for me free of charge by Hardy Amies. All views expressed are my own.

Lanieri: suits from Italy

Lanieri sells online suits made to measure in Italy. They invited me to try the process which involves selecting from a wide range of Italian fabrics and then entering your measurements online. There's a helpful video that sees you through each stage and your data is checked and any queries raised with you about any details or measurements which lie outside the expected range.

This was all very easy and it's fun choosing all the details of your suit, from cut of lapels, single or double breasted, colours of linings, type of buttons, and so on.

Wearing my Lanieri suit

Lanieri say that the suits are made entirely in Italy. Postage is free and you have a variety of options to have the suit remade, or altered to fit you. Lanieri will reimburse the costs of a tailor if such alterations are needed. 

I selected a Traveller Grey Houndstooth check cloth by Fratelli Tallia di Delfino. A lightweight wool for warmer weather, it has proved to be comfortable, crush and water resistant and soft to touch: Lanieri certainly don't stint on the quality of the cloths. I chose real horn buttons to give the suit a quality look. 

The suit arrived after a few weeks and fitted reasonably well. The legs were too long, but this was easily altered by my tailor. Otherwise the trousers fitted well around waist and seat. I selected a mid-range fit for the trousers: this would be still slim for some and I suggest you go for the widest option unless you want trousers that fit fairly closely around the calves. The jacket was very slightly too long in the sleeves, but it was marginal. Otherwise it was a fair fit over chest and shoulders. Ideally, I'd have had a few further tweaks made, but given the price (from £590 for the cloth chosen) the final result is a very nice suit that has been much admired.

If I were to have another suit made by Lanieri, I would look for something suitable for summer such as the lovely cream hopsack suit pictured above. Now is the time to order that Italian-made summer suit. See Lanieri for more information and to order your suit.

The suit in this feature was provided for review by Lanieri.

Masters of Style: Edward Sexton - bespoke tailor

After decades as a lawyer, essentially an uncreative and often destructive profession, it's a huge pleasure for me, in my new life as a blogger, to talk to people who make it their task to create quality, elegance and style. I recently went to Beauchamp Place, in the shadow of Harrods in South West London, to meet Edward Sexton, bespoke tailor and striver for perfection, in his studio.

I can, even as a then disinterested youngster, remember the impact made on Savile Row by the opening of Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton's Nutters in 1969. I even went over there to press my nose to the window. For some reason I can't now explain, I thought that Nutters was mentioned in one of the James Bond books as 007's tailors. The last Bond book was written a few years before Nutters opened, so I'd just got it completely wrong.

Of course, Nutters wouldn't have made suits to Bond's tastes anyway. Although the quality of the tailoring was high, the clientele was international pop and rock stars and the styles were those of Carnaby Street rather than the establishment of Her Majesty's Secret Service. Images of stars wearing Nutters long waisted coats with huge, wide collars, exaggerated roped shoulders, flared trousers and clashing checks advertised Edward Sexton's creativity and sixties style.

These elements still echo in his tailoring, providing a refreshing and individual alternative to the classic styles available elsewhere in London. These style clues from earlier and possibly more original days of tailoring reminded me of Mark Powell, another tailor whose work I write about here. The relationship between cutting edge tailoring, depth of experience and heritage is complex and so interwoven that they can never be separated. Without tailors with a foot firmly in the best of the past, we would be much the poorer.

But Sexton isn't dwelling on the past. The focus of his skills, and the very obvious pride he has in them, is on the quality of his tailoring. He showed me how he structures, sews and manipulates canvas, cloth and thread to make a garment that moulds to the wearer, moving with him or her and masking unevenness or pocket contents in way which, to me, seems magically mysterious. 

Despite his depth of experience, he told me that he can learn something new every day and he admitted to me that he has never made the perfect suit. This must make him the perfect tailor. Who wants to go to a craftsman who claims always to make perfection? It's the striving for elusive perfect tailoring that makes the genius. Luckily he also loves to pass on his skills to a younger generation and seeing him work with a young apprentice made me envious of the creativity and skills he has to pass on. 

Everything is completed in his studio; cutting and tailoring. Sexton offers a made to measure range, offering all that we love of the Sexton style. Suits in this range cost around £1800 and are made in China from his own patterns. The block is then altered back in London after fittings with the client. A large proportion of Sexton's clients are women.

Sexton is obviously a man of great generosity and the number of young tailors and apprentices working closely with him highlights his desire to pass on his many years of experience to a new generation, ensuring the future if his business, and indeed of London tailoring.

See Edward Sexton.