Country Attire - outdoor clothing made in Britain

It's always a pleasure coming across a supplier of British-manufactured menswear. Country Attire sells a wide selection of brands which importantly include its own range of country wear (marketed as Country Attire) made in the UK from Scottish tweed and British Millerain waxed cotton. They sent me a few jackets to try and I took them up to Cumbria, in north west England, to see how they got on in the environment for which they were designed. 

The weather veered (as it does up there) between pouring rain, sleet, mist and glorious sunshine. I found that all the waterproof jackets kept out the water and all were well-designed and made. Careful thought had gone into placing zips, poppers, buttons, neck closures, pockets and belts to ensure the best fit, practicality and closure against the elements. Some are at reduced prices at the moment and offer excellent value (see below).

Crosby Slim-fit Jacket - Country Attire

The Crosby slim-fit jacket (shown in the above two images) was one of my favourites. Designed in that popular motor bike jacket style so favoured by Steve McQueen, it's stylish, comfortable and useful for town or country. Reasonably lightweight, the exterior is made from waxed cotton with a waterproof lining, Milair 5000, made by British Millerain.  It would be ideal with a vintage Tootal spotted scarf, jeans, boots and a thick roll-neck jumper on colder days. The sizing is surprisingly small on this one; check carefully as you may have to order a size or two higher than normal. I'm wearing a 40" chest (normally 38") and it still only just takes a sweater underneath. Price: £155.97 (reduced).

Ventile Shooting Coat - Country Attire

More practical in style, the Ventile Shooting Coat is a serious country jacket (above) with huge pockets, knitted cuffs, detachable hood and a wonderful robust construction. While this was designed as a shooting jacket, I'd wear it on a cold day on the hill, in the forest or walking the dog in the park. Made from Ventile, the historic fabric originally designed for RAF pilot survival suits, the closely-woven cotton is water proof but quiet, so you can move more quietly that when wearing many modern waterproof fabrics. This is a great, classic jacket for any outdoor enthusiast. Wear with wellies, tweed cap and robust trousers. Price: £389.97 (reduced).

Corby Wax Jacket - Country Attire

Next, the Corby Wax jacket (above) is made in the traditional British outdoor waxed cotton style, but with Milair 5000 waterproof lining. A huge corduroy collar, detachable hood, good-sized pockets and a robust feel mean that everything is as it should be for this country classic. I suspect this is a coat that will last many a decade. Price: £155.97 (reduced).

William Clean Tweed Jacket - Country Attire

Finally, I was very impressed by the William Clean tweed jacket. I wasn't sure how to classify this one. It's not a blazer-style sports jacket, nor purely a tweed country jacket, but it has all the makings of a Harrington-type tweed/outdoor/casual coat which would be suitable, properly layered, for colder weather in town or country. An interesting one this, and one I liked for being a little different. Wear with jeans and brogues, Red Wing style boots or desert boots. Price £329.95.

It's good to see such well-made classics manufactured in the UK and following a long tradition of durable British outdoor wear. See Country Attire for their range of men's and women's wear. Country Attire stock many other brands, including Barbour, Hackett, Loake, Drake's, John Smedley and many others.

[Note: Prices are current at time of writing this post. Country Attire has given me some of these jackets.]

Many thanks to Kirsty and Tom for helping with this post. 

Lavenham jackets, made in England

Entering its forty-sixth year, Lavenham can claim to be on the proud list of classic British clothing manufacturers. Starting in 1969 making quilted horse blankets, it branched out into country clothing; the quilted waistcoats and jackets, much loved by the riding and country set. But things have developed further and the company has had collaborations with Kenzo, Look Mum No Hands, Hackett and others. New owners, Fred Perry, see a worldwide market for the brand and it's good to see another British manufacturer taking such an ambitious approach.

Always keen to support British menswear companies, I tried one of their jackets, choosing something a little different from their usual offering of stylish nylon quilted coats. The Harlow is faced with British tweed. Modelled on a blazer shape, it has patch pockets, a quilted lining and a soft-shouldered and generous cut that makes it both comfortable and practical to wear with layers in cold weather. A good alternative to a pea coat or waxed jacket, it retails at £243 (reduced from £325) and, like the rest of the range, is made at their Suffolk factory.

I've found that this jacket is now the first thing I reach for if there is a chill in the air. I'd like to have seen internal pockets for wallet, phone etc, but this isn't a deal breaker for me. This is a versatile coat, which I've found to be very much at home on city streets or in the country. 

If, like me, you like to watch videos of how things are made, you may like this one:

Lavenham is proud of its British heritage and its origins in the equine world of Suffolk. As with so many brands that started by making practical, working products, the result has been clothes that are well-tested in use and with the addition of a bit of stylish design, have translated successfully into an attractive collection that's a little different and fun to wear. British materials are used wherever possible and design and manufacture are kept in-house. I hope that, under its new owners,  Lavenham preserves the very English nature of the brand.

See Lavenham to find out more, or to buy.

Corduroy - time for a revival? How to be a geography teacher of style

Corduroy has never quite shaken off its Victorian reputation as a working man's cloth; robust and far from crisp in appearance. It can have a somewhat fusty feel, with memories of baggy cord trousers worn with tweed jackets and brogues by geography teachers or country gentlemen. But things have changed.

Corduroy as it was (left) and in its modern form (right) - jacket Marks & Spencer, shirt Gieves & Hawkes

That combination of tweed, corduroy and chunky footwear may be old-fashioned, but, like much that has withstood the test of time, it has become a classic. But to make it look good you must lose the shapeless appearance by ensuring that everything fits and is well-cut. Here Richard James, the Savile Row tailor, shows how stylishly relaxed a well-tailored and shaped suit in dark green corduroy can look. How about a bespoke corduroy suit?

Image of Richard James (C) Grey Fox Blog

Being soft and durable, corduroy is one of the more comfortable fabrics to wear. Naturally pliant, it doesn't leave the wearer feeling they mustn't cross their legs (as a fine flannel can do) for fear of crushing the cloth and it needs none of the breaking in that a robust raw denim requires. Its little sibling, needlecord, finer than corduroy, makes shirts and lightweight suits.

Engineered Garments cord Norfolk jacket from Oi Polloi

For me, the images above of the Norfolk jacket, and below of the Nigel Cabourn Atkinson cord jacket (which can be matched to waistcoat and trousers), exemplify what corduroy is all about - casual, crumpled, comfort. 

It's time for a cord revival. But where can you find corduroy? Here I identify a few suppliers for you to try. The links are at the bottom of the post. Please get in touch if you have any corduroy favourites.

Nigel Cabourn Atkinson cord jacket/suit

SEH Kelly reversible shirt

Richard James

Richard James

Hackett

J Crew Ludlow cord suit

A riot of colour from Cordings

SUPPLIERS:

Richard James - Savile Row quality
Oi Polloi - plenty of well-curated menswear (including cord) from this Manchester company

SEH Kelly - genuine British-made small volume quality 

Marks & Spencer - who have a wide range of corduroy menswear

Gieves & Hawkes - more from Savile Row

Nigel Cabourn - military/country/expedition pedigree - again, British made

Hackett - a comprehensive destination for the gentleman of style

J Crew - a US import, but stylish with some British influences

Cordings - British country style, with parts of the range made in the UK

STOP PRESS - if on a budget, try this cord suit jacket from H&M.

Cheaney Cairngorm - Veldtschoen construction shoes

Our largely urban lifestyle has sidelined the need for robust, waterproof and truly comfortable footwear. Pavements are not muddy, rock-strewn hillsides and there is little call for shoes that can be worn on both. We tend to separate our urban and country lives, buying stylish shoes for work and walking boots or wellies for the country.

Cheaney Cairngrom

As a result shoes constructed to be sturdy, comfortable all day and weatherproof are overlooked. This is a a shame, because Veldtschoen construction shoes will last a lifetime and that chunky appearance is just the bee's knees. Their construction is slightly different from Goodyear-welted shoes, as they are assembled and stitched to keep out water. Their round-toed appearance enhances this waterproof quality and, to my eyes, gives them a slightly military, retro and highly-stylish look.

Cheaney Pennine boot

This robust and traditional style endears them to real shoe enthusiasts, who snap up used Veldtschoen construction shoes for high prices on internet sales sites. Clearly there is a hardcore demand for them, making them something of an investment. Joseph Cheaney & Sons have recognised this demand by making (in Northampton, England) a handful of Veldtschoen construction models, shoes and boots, four of which are illustrated here. I've tried the Cairngorm brogues, pictured here. 

Cheaney Mallory boot

The first impression on putting them on is of great comfort, a result of the soft but robust grain leather and of the slightly rounded shape, more foot-friendly than more pointed designs. The tongue is stitched into the shoe along its length, to prevent water seeping in round the laces. The Itshide Commando sole does its job on soft or hard ground.

Cheaney Cairngorm

If you're looking for a strong and supremely comfortable shoe with an interesting history and construction, try these beautifully-made shoes, fine examples of the best of English shoe manufacture.

Terrific with tweed, peerless with denim, sublime with chinos, shocking with shorts; a pair of these, properly maintained, will last a lifetime, making them a bargain. For more information see Joseph Cheaney & Sons' website, where you'll find a selection of shoes that'll turn you into a male Imelda Marcos if you don't exercise extreme self-restraint.

Cheaney Stour