Our largely urban lifestyle has sidelined the need for robust, waterproof and truly comfortable footwear. Pavements are not muddy, rock-strewn hillsides and there is little call for shoes that can be worn on both. We tend to separate our urban and country lives, buying stylish shoes for work and walking boots or wellies for the country.
Cheaney Cairngrom |
As a result shoes constructed to be sturdy, comfortable all day and weatherproof are overlooked. This is a a shame, because Veldtschoen construction shoes will last a lifetime and that chunky appearance is just the bee's knees. Their construction is slightly different from Goodyear-welted shoes, as they are assembled and stitched to keep out water. Their round-toed appearance enhances this waterproof quality and, to my eyes, gives them a slightly military, retro and highly-stylish look.
Cheaney Pennine boot |
This robust and traditional style endears them to real shoe enthusiasts, who snap up used Veldtschoen construction shoes for high prices on internet sales sites. Clearly there is a hardcore demand for them, making them something of an investment. Joseph Cheaney & Sons have recognised this demand by making (in Northampton, England) a handful of Veldtschoen construction models, shoes and boots, four of which are illustrated here. I've tried the Cairngorm brogues, pictured here.
Cheaney Mallory boot |
The first impression on putting them on is of great comfort, a result of the soft but robust grain leather and of the slightly rounded shape, more foot-friendly than more pointed designs. The tongue is stitched into the shoe along its length, to prevent water seeping in round the laces. The Itshide Commando sole does its job on soft or hard ground.
Cheaney Cairngorm |
If you're looking for a strong and supremely comfortable shoe with an interesting history and construction, try these beautifully-made shoes, fine examples of the best of English shoe manufacture.
Terrific with tweed, peerless with denim, sublime with chinos, shocking with shorts; a pair of these, properly maintained, will last a lifetime, making them a bargain. For more information see Joseph Cheaney & Sons' website, where you'll find a selection of shoes that'll turn you into a male Imelda Marcos if you don't exercise extreme self-restraint.
Cheaney Stour |
I'm loving your blog, and doubly loving my TRIPL stitched shirts - you pointed me at them.
ReplyDeleteI'm in danger of being a bit pedantic but the Cairngorms aren't brogues, I think - brogues have holes punched in - originally for water to drain, but now decorative. These are essentially plain toe Derbys or Bluchers
Thanks Anon - you're quite right of course, I do use the word brogue very loosely for any stout country shoe of that shape - so forgive me. Yes, as you say, it really means shoes with decorative holes which are the remnants of the drainage holes punched in the predecessors of the modern brogue.
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Grey Fox, nice blog.
ReplyDeleteI have a pair of Cairngorm R II purchased about a year ago from Shoehealer in England (great place to deal with). Cheaney also sells shoes direct.
The Cairngorm is a versatile shoe as I have worn it with jeans and kaki shorts on a medical mission in the Philippines, wear them to work or out to dine in Buffalo, NY weather (dress or casual) and walked on a horse farm in North Carolina. Very rugged and comfortable shoes. I highly recommend these shoes to anyone, unless one prefers boots.
I am starting to like boots and may get a pair of Pennine or Fiennes/Mallory.
I do wonder if in everyday use is there really much difference between veldtschoen construction and a good storm welt as I prefer the Dainite over Commando soles, any opinion or experience?
I was lucky enough to pick up a pair of these in good condition for £4 in my local charity shop. A few good polishes later and they look fine, looking forward to testing their water resistant capabilities in the winter to come......
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