Here is part 1 of my very personal round-up of the fourth London Collections:Men, just finished this week. The city has placed itself firmly on the menswear fashion and style map. The variety, quality and creativity on display in the capital between 6th and 8th January exceeded anything I'd seen before.
Firstly, one of my favourite young brands - Campbell Cole. Ian and Felicity have been promising something new since I first met them earlier last year. This show saw the launch of their new made in England range of exquisite soft leather bags, beautifully-made and finished. Many bag makers have appeared recently, but these stand out as the shape, design and quality have to be seen to be believed. Campbell Cole.
Men in Black: Ian and Felicity - the creative force behind Campbell Cole |
Campbell Cole (the umbrella is mine - from London Undercover) |
I also saw Universal Works' offering for AW14. Harris tweed, vintage-style scarves, beautiful cottons, soft tailoring - all the usual hallmarks of this great British brand which seems, deservedly, to be going from strength to strength while retaining the soul and craft of its offering. Universal Works.
David and Stephanie of Universal Works - always a great pleasure to visit and chat to. |
House of Nines uses an older grey-haired man in their advertising, so start with an advantage as far as I'm concerned. Influenced by styles from previous decades, this label offers much to the man looking for sharp tailoring that is different and notable. Ostensibly young in style, I suggest this label is actually for men of all ages who want to stand out. House of Nines.
Ross Paul Keenan and Shamrez Marawat show off serious sharp tailoring design skills |
Outstanding advertising by House of Nines - style isn't only for the young |
In my view, Esk Cashmere reaches perfection in knitwear - soft chunky fisherman's style jumpers, reversed-knitted cardigans, interesting colours and textures. I always enjoy seeing and speaking to Stuart and Lorraine, the creative and business brains behind Esk. For men and women. Esk Cashmere.
Esk - variations of grey |
Earlier last year I met Anne Marie Ng who was using her extensive tailoring and fashion experience to plan and design a new menswear label based on high quality cottons. LC:M saw the launch of Wearfore and a lovely collection of beautifully-made shirts in a variety of whites and blues, from indigo to slate grey-blue. A label to watch and support. Wearfore.
Anne Marie Ng and Wearfore's collection |
Jaewan Park is a Korean designer who trained, and is based, in London. His playful and highly-skilled designs offer very subtle and unique variations on conventional styles that offer much promise to the man who is looking for something quite different while being very wearable. Take a close look at the lapels on the jacket below and you'll see what I mean. Visit Jaewan Park (where you'll also see some more grey hairs).
Now you see it, now you don't - Jaewan Park |
I've written about Marwood before. Becky's design skills are supreme. Look at these ties, silk or silk/wool mix. The colours, patterns and textures are quite outstanding. She has collaborated here with a brand which was new to me - Alice Made This, the quality of whose cufflinks and other small accessories like these tiepins, complement those of Marwood's products. Here the two have carefully matched the fabrics and metals to produce a perfect harmony.
If I could have taken one thing away from LC:M it would have been one of these tie/pin sets (and maybe one of Campbell Coles's bags to hide them in). I want to write more about Alice Made This in a future post. Meanwhile, find out more about these two astonishing brands on their websites - Marwood and Alice Made This.
Marwood and Alice Made This collaborate to perfection |
All images Grey Fox
I love Universal Works, their the one brand for me at the moment.
ReplyDeleteBuckets & Spades
We loved, loved, loved ESK's collection. If only we could buy all of it. Particularly liked the Aran style sweater in cashmere, a soft warm hug of a sweater.
ReplyDeleteAn interesting read, thank you Grey Fox. It’s good to see smaller labels also joining the bigger brands in advertising themselves.
ReplyDeleteI’ve read good things about Gieves and Hawkes did you see their show also what about M&S were you impressed.
Keep up the good work
Cheers P
Phil
Thanks all!
ReplyDeleteNo, I didn't see Gieves and Hawkes as I didn't get a reply to a rather late request for a ticket.
Yes, I saw M&S and will post about that soon - the Best of British AW14 collection is quite superb.
GF