2014 has started with the two great menswear shows, London Collections:Men and Pitto Uomo in Florence. I've tried to identify trends from the Autumn/Winter 2014 collections.
Pitti Uomo January 2014 |
Menswear changes slowly and developmentally. Look how the shape and structure of men's suits have changed little in over a century. I've focused on styles that I, an older man, would select. My tastes are for the classic with a twist - but don't let this discourage you from being more adventurous.
Oliver Spencer AW14 - grey tweed jacket and fuller-cut trousers - and wonderful models with real attitude |
My post here outlined trends for 2013. Most of these will persist in 2014 and beyond, so here I highlight any significant changes; otherwise assume that everything will be much as before.
- Colours remain essentially drab, with browns and greys being relieved by splashes of colour in trousers, ties, socks, pocket squares etc.
- Bold checks are here to stay - most shows containing tailored suits and jackets with checks. Look out for some superb examples from Duchamp, Marks & Spencer Best of British, Rake, Richard James and Hackett; indeed any high street menswear store.
Hackett AW14 |
- At last, trousers are beginning to loosen up. Few shows contained those spray-on trousers that are impossible to take off over even remotely-toned calves. Topman's show at LC:M varied between slightly looser cut and very baggy trousers.
- Cravats are returning, ties and pocket squares remain popular.
- Large overcoats and rainwear - perhaps a timely return given the increasingly-obvious results of climate change.
- Men's luggage and bags - quality leather holdalls and poachers' or anglers' style bags, which must have adequate storage for phones, iPads and other technology.
- I mentioned polo-neck (roll-neck) jumpers last year - we'll see them layered under blazers, jackets and knitwear. I recall wearing them in this way in the late sixties. I like them as they save the tedium of washing and ironing shirts, particularly if you can find a machine-washable lambswool or merino jumper. Smart casual is looking up.
- Look out for further reports on the blog giving more detail of some of the labels I've mentioned.
Hackett AW14 - layered knits and polo neck jumper |
Should we also hope for a bit longer jackets and blazers? Personally, as being rather tall, I have extreme difficulties with the short cut that we have today.
ReplyDeleteGood point, Ola. I didn't notice that jackets were particularly short, but I agree they have been.
ReplyDeleteTry more classic tailoring or go for MTM or bespoke - it needn't be as costly as you might anticipate.
GF