I've asked Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab to advise on the tricky issue of the older man's thickening middle. Here she has put together some tips (that DON'T include going to the gym) to help you dress to disguise this area.
Vertical & horizontal lines
Most people are aware that vertical lines will cause your eye to travel up and down rather than from left to right therefore making you look taller and slimmer. Great for shirts, but not so much for sweaters and t-shirts. So what's the alternative? Horizontal stripes across the chest area will bring the attention away from the stomach, and have the added benefit of visually broadening your chest. If you can find one with a light colour at the top and a darker one across the tummy this will have the effect of making you look like you've been on a diet and at the gym. What's not to like?!
You can create the illusion of a vertical stripe with a shirt featuring a contrast placket down the front, or a darker layer on top of a light one. This will give the effect of a narrow stripe down the centre of your body, effectively cutting you in half and directing the eye to the middle of your body.
Bring attention to your shoulders and chest
Stick to single-breasted jackets and avoid the trend for double-breasted as you don't need an extra layer of fabric around your stomach area. Try peak lapels to take the eye up towards the shoulders, creating a great distraction from the stomach area. Other ways to achieve this are by wearing a sweater with a pattern across the shoulders or a shirt or t-shirt with a contrasting shoulder panel (above image), shoulder seam detailing or colour block with the darker colour at the bottom.
Casual shirts with chest pockets will bring the point of focus away from the stomach and higher up to the chest area. If you prefer to wear a crew neck, then look for something with graphics high up on your chest or a pocket tee.
Colours and patterns
Colours and patterns
Darker colours tend to make you look smaller and patterns can distort the focus of the eye, so you have something other than a large, plain expanse of fabric to look at. A small check or gingham or a small uniform pattern is a great choice.
For weekend wear, don't just think black shirts - look for deep burgundy or aubergine, navy and pine green, which could also have a very small dot on it or be in a jacquard fabric. If you're wearing a darker top, contrasting trousers in a lighter colour will work well to bring the focus down to your legs and away from your middle section. Remember that matt fabrics for your top half are preferable as they absorb the light more than shiny ones.
Fit
Avoid the "trousers under your belly" look by wearing flat-front trousers not too low-cut. If they are cut a little higher, and some of your stomach is covered with the darker fabric, then it will effectively cut it in half. Trousers with a side-adjuster will keep the look streamlined and trim.
Your shirts should be fitted enough not to be tight across your tummy or straining at the back, but not so enormous that there are swathes of extra fabric adding to your silhouette. Make sure t-shirts are long enough, as extra fabric can be taken up by the stomach making them look shorter. Choose jackets that are slightly longer so that the eye doesn't stop at your stomach area and avoid bomber jackets which with an elasticated hem, which will add pounds around the waistline.
Accessories
For weekend wear, don't just think black shirts - look for deep burgundy or aubergine, navy and pine green, which could also have a very small dot on it or be in a jacquard fabric. If you're wearing a darker top, contrasting trousers in a lighter colour will work well to bring the focus down to your legs and away from your middle section. Remember that matt fabrics for your top half are preferable as they absorb the light more than shiny ones.
Fit
Avoid the "trousers under your belly" look by wearing flat-front trousers not too low-cut. If they are cut a little higher, and some of your stomach is covered with the darker fabric, then it will effectively cut it in half. Trousers with a side-adjuster will keep the look streamlined and trim.
Your shirts should be fitted enough not to be tight across your tummy or straining at the back, but not so enormous that there are swathes of extra fabric adding to your silhouette. Make sure t-shirts are long enough, as extra fabric can be taken up by the stomach making them look shorter. Choose jackets that are slightly longer so that the eye doesn't stop at your stomach area and avoid bomber jackets which with an elasticated hem, which will add pounds around the waistline.
Accessories
If you're wearing a tie then make sure it's long enough - it should just touch the top of your belt. A tie that is too short and finishes mid tummy acts like an arrow and will stop the eye at your widest point giving an unflattering look. If you're a larger than average man, then ignore the "look du jour" of skinny ties and ensure yours is a regular or slightly wider width.
Keep your belt subtle and toning with your trousers. Avoid very shiny or statement buckles which will draw attention to this area. You can use more interesting accessories elsewhere - ie: a pocket square, or great watch and cufflinks.
Gentlemen, I hope this has been helpful, but if you have any more queries or would like help shopping for a flattering and age appropriate wardrobe then contact me here.
Some useful menswear links:
Honestly what's wrong with going to the gym? Camouflaging will not get rid of the problem!
ReplyDeleteNothing at all and I certainly prefer exercise to camouflage myself, but unfortunately not everyone sees things the same way, Alex, so we try to cater for all.
ReplyDeleteGF
Hi Alex, there's nothing wrong with going to the gym but I'm a personal stylist, not a personal trainer so I'm just advising on the things that I know about. It's not my position to tell clients they need to go to the gym - I work with the shape they have. If they feel they should lose weight or go to the gym then that's their decision. Sarah
ReplyDelete