Styling for Grey Fox Blog readers: a Sartoria Lab / Grey Fox collaboration

No matter how stylishly you dress, you can benefit from the expertise of a personal stylist. Although I've blogged about menswear for over three years, I'm still searching for a style of my own. The most useful step on my journey has been a styling session with Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab. Sarah will be known to regular readers for her clear, humorous and stylish guidance here on the blog and on her website at Sartoria Lab.

From One Jacket, Five Styles

Spring is a time for change and Sarah has kindly collaborated with me to offer a styling service which she has designed specially for Grey Fox readers. 

Sarah's Sartorial Snapshot is a three hour Personal Styling & Wardrobe Review which she carries out at your house. She outlines it as follows:

"The basis of styling is knowing what suits you. I visit your home to help you identify a range of colours and styles that suit your tastes, figure and budget. Using this information I edit your wardrobe and create outfits from the clothes you already have, giving you a fresh new slant and ideas to upgrade your look.

As a follow-up, you will receive a personalised Style Summary with ideas and suggestions on how to improve your wardrobe. This could include specific styles and colours to explore, what to buy to modernise your look and fill any gaps in your wardrobe, which brands to shop and any other relevant information that will help you to hone your personal style".

This package is available to Grey Fox Blog readers only at a special price of £285 plus travel expenses. To find out more about Sartorial Snapshot, or about Sarah's other personal styling other services, e-mail Sarah Gilfillan, telephone her on +44(0)7739 469088 or visit her website. She will be happy to tell you more and discuss your requirements.

One jacket - five styles. Making full use of your wardrobe with Sarah Gilfillan and an M&S tweed jacket

As a stylist, Sarah Gilfillan works with clients to review their existing clothes and revives little-used items by suggesting new and different uses. We thought this would be a useful idea for readers and have applied it to a reasonably-priced Marks & Spencer grey herringbone jacket. We agreed that its colour and style make it the perfect for this project. The middle-aged or older man will find plenty of inspiration here for rejuvenating their wardrobes.

The herringbone tweed jacket has been a useful item for decades, as stylish men as diverse as Gianni Agnelli and Steve McQueen (above) have shown. It's ideal for casual wear, but we feel it also, in its grey/black form, has potential to be useful for smart and even formal events. 

I'll hand over to Sarah to comment on the five looks she has styled after rummaging through my wardrobe. (To make use yourself of Sarah's styling services see Sartoria Lab).

Outfit 1 - Cream sweater and jeans

Outfit 1

Sarah Gilfillan writes: 

I've always loved these vintage fisherman's type sweaters and when I discovered this old Royal Navy submariner's jumper while raiding David's wardrobe, I wanted to use it as the basis to our first outfit. I like the juxtaposition of a casual sweater like this with some tailoring, but the grey herringbone texture of the jacket means they're still in keeping with each other. The dark slim cut of jeans, worn with a small turn-up, keeps the look modern and shows off this great pair of boots. The gold toned pocket square was chosen to pick up on their colour and adds a nice little kick to the neutrals. We finished it off with a chic and super soft toning grey scarf.

Jacket: Marks & Spencer (from 2013). Scarf: The Merchant Fox. Pocket Square: bought by Grey Fox on Lake Como, Italy. Jeans: The Jean Machine. Boots: Loake Dovedale.

Outfit 2 - White shirt and navy trousers 

Outfit 2

Super classy, non?! A classic look when worn with navy trousers, we've dressed the jacket up here with a double cuff white shirt. It gives a sharp contrast which adds formality, and the double cuff allows you to sport a dashing pair of cufflinks, further formalising the look.

We've chosen a grey wool tie which tones in well with the herringbone of the jacket and adds a quiet elegance to the look. Using a stylised 3-point fold on the white pocket square continues the formal feel and polished black brogues finish off the look perfectly.

Shirt and tie: Marks & Spencer. Trousers from a suit by TM Lewin. Pocket square: Mr Porter. Shoes: Charles Tyrwhitt.  

Outfit 3 - Pink shirt and burgundy chinos

To contrast well with the neutral grey of the jacket and give it a smart/casual look, we chose tonal shades of a light pink shirt and burgundy chinos. The button down detail of the shirt keeps it on the casual side of smart/casual, and this is continued with the choice of a burgundy & blue knit tie. (This is a vintage one that David cleverly hung on to from first time round - right back in fashion now!) Along with the toning (never exactly matching) pocket square, it brings the colour of the trousers into the top of the outfit. Navy suede shoes echo the casualness of the rest of the outfit.

Shirt: Tripl Stitched. Tie: vintage. Pocket Square: vintage Liberty's. Chinos: Paul Smith 2013. Shoes: Bodileys.

Outfit 4 - Blue polo neck sweater and jeans

This outfit was David's favourite. The simplicity of his fine knit roll neck in deep periwinkle and dark jeans makes a great backdrop for the texture of the grey herringbone. We added the orange pocket square and matching socks to create some focus to the outfit and which keep it looking modern and fresh. I really like the retro-style tortoiseshell glasses which give a nod to current trends, and you can never really go wrong with classic brown suede brogues. It's an outfit you could pretty much wear anywhere.

Polo-neck sweater: Uniqlo. Glasses: Scarlett of Soho. Pocket square: Duchamp. Socks: London Sock Co. Shoes: Cheaney x Mr Porter. Jeans, as above.

Outfit 5 - Fair Isle knit and cords

Herringbone and cords to together like love and marriage, don't you think?! We wanted to include an outfit that had a country-ish feel, so went for earthy toned cords, and a Fair Isle knit which we then teamed with a denim shirt to keep it from looking "fusty". The wool tie with a hare print fits in with our country style, and the paisley pocket square echoes the colour. Brogues originally had holes punched in them so the water could drain from the shoe when walking through boggy countryside, so of course they are a fitting accompaniment to this outfit.

Shirt: Hentsch Man. Fair Isle sweater: Drake's. Pocket square: vintage. Tie: Cordings. Cords: Massimo Dutti 2013. Shoes: Loake Otterburn (link as above).

Sarah's pick of grey herringbone tweed jackets. Please mention us to suppliers:

Beams + at Trunk Clothiers

Man 1924 at Trunk Clothiers

Paul Smith at Matches

Gant

Oliver Spencer at Liberty
Marks & Spencer

For more on the vintage submariner's jersey, see my post here.

This is not a sponsored post. If you would like to see your products included in future styling posts of this sort, please contact us.

Middle-aged spread - how to manage it with style: Sarah Gilfillan advises

I've asked Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab to advise on the tricky issue of the older man's thickening middle. Here she has put together some tips (that DON'T include going to the gym) to help you dress to disguise this area.

Vertical & horizontal lines

Most people are aware that vertical lines will cause your eye to travel up and down rather than from left to right therefore making you look taller and slimmer. Great for shirts, but not so much for sweaters and t-shirts. So what's the alternative? Horizontal stripes across the chest area will bring the attention away from the stomach, and have the added benefit of visually broadening your chest. If you can find one with a light colour at the top and a darker one across the tummy this will have the effect of making you look like you've been on a diet and at the gym. What's not to like?!

You can create the illusion of a vertical stripe with a shirt featuring a contrast placket down the front, or a darker layer on top of a light one. This will give the effect of a narrow stripe down the centre of your body, effectively cutting you in half and directing the eye to the middle of your body.

Bring attention to your shoulders and chest

Stick to single-breasted jackets and avoid the trend for double-breasted as you don't need an extra layer of fabric around your stomach area. Try peak lapels to take the eye up towards the shoulders, creating a great distraction from the stomach area. Other ways to achieve this are by wearing a sweater with a pattern across the shoulders or a shirt or t-shirt with a contrasting shoulder panel (above image), shoulder seam detailing or colour block with the darker colour at the bottom.

Casual shirts with chest pockets will bring the point of focus away from the stomach and higher up to the chest area. If you prefer to wear a crew neck, then look for something with graphics high up on your chest or a pocket tee.

Colours and patterns

Darker colours tend to make you look smaller and patterns can distort the focus of the eye, so you have something other than a large, plain expanse of fabric to look at. A small check or gingham or a small uniform pattern is a great choice.



For weekend wear, don't just think black shirts - look for deep burgundy or aubergine, navy and pine green, which could also have a very small dot on it or be in a jacquard fabric. If you're wearing a darker top, contrasting trousers in a lighter colour will work well to bring the focus down to your legs and away from your middle section. Remember that matt fabrics for your top half are preferable as they absorb the light more than shiny ones.

Fit

Avoid the "trousers under your belly" look by wearing flat-front trousers not too low-cut. If they are cut a little higher, and some of your stomach is covered with the darker fabric, then it will effectively cut it in half. Trousers with a side-adjuster will keep the look streamlined and trim.

Your shirts should be fitted enough not to be tight across your tummy or straining at the back, but not so enormous that there are swathes of extra fabric adding to your silhouette. Make sure t-shirts are long enough, as extra fabric can be taken up by the stomach making them look shorter. Choose jackets that are slightly longer so that the eye doesn't stop at your stomach area and avoid bomber jackets which with an elasticated hem, which will add pounds around the waistline.

Accessories

If you're wearing a tie then make sure it's long enough - it should just touch the top of your belt. A tie that is too short and finishes mid tummy acts like an arrow and will stop the eye at your widest point giving an unflattering look. If you're a larger than average man, then ignore the "look du jour" of skinny ties and ensure yours is a regular or slightly wider width.

Keep your belt subtle and toning with your trousers. Avoid very shiny or statement buckles which will draw attention to this area. You can use more interesting accessories elsewhere - ie: a pocket square, or great watch and cufflinks. 

Gentlemen, I hope this has been helpful, but if you have any more queries or would like help shopping for a flattering and age appropriate wardrobe then contact me here.

Some useful menswear links:

John Smedley 

Boss Orange

Burberry 

Saturdays Surf NYC at Mr Porter 

Hugo Boss

Richard James at Mr Porter

Vivienne Westwood at Van Mildert

Oliver Spencer 

Barbour

J Crew

Nigel Hall 

Maison Martin Margiela at Mr Start

Marwood 

Alice Made This

Spring Summer trends and how to wear them - Sarah Gilfillan helps us out

Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab, stylist extraordinaire, has again agreed to share with us the benefit of her experience scanning the shops for the best, at all price points, for her male clients. Here she advises the older man on spring/summer trends and how to wear them. GF.

Florals

The catwalks showed head to toe florals in clashing prints and full suits, and the Prada collection in particular was all things tropical. I doubt very much whether I'll be buying any of these looks in full with my clients, but I can see them being persuaded into a floral shirt or two - perhaps even going for a Hawaiian style or some floral shorts to add some fun and colour to their holiday outfits. Or maybe it'll just be a nod to the trend with a floral cotton tie or pocket square. Even if you're a bit of a shrinking violet in the sartorial department, like my friend's husband was, try it out A shirt he bought for a Hawaiian party a couple of years ago has now become his favourite summer BBQ shirt.

Links: Prada Tom Ford Gucci French Connection Penfield Universal Works

White

I'm trying to imagine if I could see GF bowling up to meet me in Central London in a pure white suit and frankly I'm finding it rather hard. Perhaps at a party in a hot and summer clime or wedding (though you wouldn't want to upstage the bride) but in your local town or city?

So my suggestion on how to incorporate the all white trend into your wardrobe this summer is to go for a more casual look. White denim is having a fashion moment, but if I was dressing a more mature client I'd be more inclined to suggest an off-white pair of jeans or chinos instead. You could then pair them with a white polo shirt, a white cotton or linen shirt and a textured cotton knit, and it becomes more of a wearable trend. Classic Converse would work well, tan shoes and belt or desert boots.

Berluti Nicole Farhi Dolce & Gabbana APC Hartford Gant Clarks Andersons 

Fifties style shirts 

Personally I rather like this look. Along with GF's sister (photographer Carole Evans), I also frequent the Lindy hopping/jive scene where a large proportion of the men dress in 40's and 50's style clothing from when these dances were popular. The 50's style shirts seen on the catwalks are an unusually practical option for summer, and easy to translate to your wardrobe.

One word of caution though, when you're wearing something retro and you're a little more mature, guard against looking as if you've had it from the first time round, by teaming it with modern, up to date pieces and avoid wearing an entire look from that era.

Nicole Farhi Missoni Canali Jigsaw French Connection Folk

Pink 

From the palest to the most neon and everything in between, pink was the colour on the Spring Summer catwalks. So if, like me (and me, GF), you believe that real men do wear pink, then get hunting for the shade that most suits your complexion.

Here's what I would advise: If you have Ryan Gosling type colouring ie. fair hair and complexion and blue/green eyes - choose a pale or dusty pink. If you're more like Michael McIntyre - dark hair, pale skin, and dark eyes - go for a bright, fuschia pink. If your colouring is warmer like Damian Lewis' and you have sandy or ginger hair and freckly skin - then look for more of a salmon or coral pink. Or if you have similar colouring to George Lamb with olive skin, grey or dark hair and brown eyes then a deeper shade of a warm salmon pink will look better on you. Combine it with neutrals like grey, navy and brown and white. If you're still not sure about wearing a large amount of pink then a flash of it in a pocket square, tie or socks will add a modern youthful touch to an outfit.

Burberry Prorsum Paul Smith Richard James Marks & Spencer Jet 8 Duchamp

Suits with t-shirts

Just when we'd got used to men dressing up more, I've noticed the designers are now going back to a more relaxed way of styling and it seems there's a return to the 90's trend of wearing trainers with suits. There's more relaxed, unstructured tailoring around with a shift away from the very skinny, tight silhouette that's been dominating the menswear scene for the past few years. As you can see from the images below, many of the shows were styled with t-shirts worn with suits and I think this could be a good look for the older man to try out. I can see it working really well with an unstructured cotton, seersucker or linen suit for an informal summer wedding or outdoor lunch. Choose a fitted, but not tight, t-shirt that skims rather than clings, with a neckline that sits not too high and not too low, and wear loafers or suede brogues with it.

Calvin Klein Costume National Zegna Jigsaw Oliver Spencer Villain

For more advice, see Sarah's Sartorial Lab blog here.

A female perspective on Grey Fox: Introducing Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab

As an outsider in the fashion world, I write with more enthusiasm than knowledge. I need a more expert view on some aspects of Grey Fox's content. So, I've invited Sarah Gilfillan, a menswear stylist of Sartoria Lab, to contribute from time to time to the blog. 

Men often welcome a woman's perspective on how they dress - image Ste Johnson

Sarah will bring much expertise of the fashion business and, most importantly, she'll bring the female perspective to Grey Fox Blog. Women's views heavily influence how we dress, so Sarah will fill a gap. I'm grateful to her for helping in this way. She'll be giving advice on affordable menswear in a blog post later this week.

I asked Sarah to say a little about her approach -

Like it or not we all subconsciously make assumptions about people based on their appearance, and statistics show that it takes just a matter of seconds to form an opinion on someone when you meet them for the first time. This judgement is made pretty much exclusively on how they look. 

That's why I think it's important to take pride in your appearance, and why I run Sartoria Lab, a personal style consultancy for men. I help men with their personal shopping and styling who perhaps don't have either the time or the inclination to do it themselves and don't have enough interest to research new places and brands to shop, but still want to look good. I do have that interest, and take absolute pleasure in helping these men to look and feel their best.

People are automatically drawn to someone who looks attractive (and who doesn't want to feel attractive and alluring to others?!) so why not make the best of what you have?

You can find out a little more about Sarah on the 'About' page of her website Sartoria Lab here.

Sartoria Lab - a personal styling service for men

When I started my search for sartorial style style in middle age, I had no idea that I could turn to anyone for help and advice. I then came across Sarah Gilfillan whose Sartoria Lab provides men with a personal styling, shopping and wardrobe management service.

Intrigued, I asked Sarah to tell me more (I threw in a few sneaky questions in the hope of getting some free advice; see below). I'm very grateful to Sarah for taking the time to answer my questions.

For information about Sartoria Lab see the website HERE.

Q – Sarah, please tell us something about Sartoria Lab, how and why you started it and what you offer.

I started Sartoria Lab about 3 years ago as I wanted to offer a Personal Styling/Shopping service exclusively for men. There was hardly anything aimed at men, and to my mind it made sense as a lot of guys don't have the time or inclination for clothes shopping and have no idea where to go. It was a natural progression for me from my background in men's fashion styling to personal styling for individual guys. 

Q – What challenges do you feel that men face as they get older when making decisions about style and how to dress? Are there any styles men should avoid as the grey hairs appear?

Not wanting to look too young and as if they're trying too hard, but not descending into "beige-ness" and looking like their dad either! Also the challenges of dressing a body that may not quite be as lithe as it once was. 

With regard to things to avoid, I think that when your face starts to get a little more worn in, your clothes shouldn't be! So I'd advise against ripping, and anything too deconstructed, or falsely distressed, eg: jeans. It looks better if the styles are cleaner and simpler and you can use colours and textures to help give interest, plus a brilliant fit really helps. 

Q – How do you work with clients to help them achieve an image they like and which suits them? Do you find yourself influencing men’s decisions to help them avoid sartorial disasters?

I usually start with a Colour Consultation and Style Analysis as this gives us a good basis to work from. I advise on what colours, shapes and detailing will work for a guy's colouring and body shape. For example, going for a lower cut shirt collar and slimmer knot on your tie will make your neck look longer, epaulettes or any contrast seam will help widen shoulders, a pocket square in your jacket pocket can distract attention from your stomach. These are things that you may instinctively choose, but you'll get a higher success rate on buying things you like, once you're aware of the reasons they look good on you. 

After this I either do a Wardrobe Edit - assessing (and throwing out!) items in their wardrobe and identifying any gaps. And then armed with a shopping list we can do a Personal Shopping trip - I do a recce first and then go shopping with them, choosing items and putting together outfits.

I definitely influence men's decisions to avoid sartorial disasters - that's what I'm there for! And most guys are very happy to have someone to help them make the decisions.

 Q – Like many men, I find selection of colours difficult. What general advice can you give on the issue of matching colours to a person’s hair, eye, skin colours?

It's tricky as everyone is different, but generally if you have darker colouring yourself then you'll look better in deeper or brighter colours, if your overall look is lighter, then paler or more muted colours are likely to look better, and if you have red tones to your hair, or freckly type skin then browns and tans will probably suit you more than blues and greys. 

When out shopping compare the different colours against your face and see if any make your eyes stand out or give more definition to your jaw line - if they do - that's the one you want!

Q – What staples should a man aim to have in his wardrobe?

Obviously it's dependent on lifestyle, but I would say well fitting dark indigo jeans, an up to date blazer, a classic white shirt (good for business or casual), selection of casual shirts, smarter shirts to wear in the evening - perhaps in a darker colour or print, a casual jacket, trousers that are smarter than jeans but not suit trousers, brown brogues, black Oxfords, a navy suit, fine gauge knits for smarter wear, chunky knits for casual. 

For more information contact Sarah at Sartoria Lab - contact information on the website HERE.