Spring Summer trends and how to wear them - Sarah Gilfillan helps us out

Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab, stylist extraordinaire, has again agreed to share with us the benefit of her experience scanning the shops for the best, at all price points, for her male clients. Here she advises the older man on spring/summer trends and how to wear them. GF.

Florals

The catwalks showed head to toe florals in clashing prints and full suits, and the Prada collection in particular was all things tropical. I doubt very much whether I'll be buying any of these looks in full with my clients, but I can see them being persuaded into a floral shirt or two - perhaps even going for a Hawaiian style or some floral shorts to add some fun and colour to their holiday outfits. Or maybe it'll just be a nod to the trend with a floral cotton tie or pocket square. Even if you're a bit of a shrinking violet in the sartorial department, like my friend's husband was, try it out A shirt he bought for a Hawaiian party a couple of years ago has now become his favourite summer BBQ shirt.

Links: Prada Tom Ford Gucci French Connection Penfield Universal Works

White

I'm trying to imagine if I could see GF bowling up to meet me in Central London in a pure white suit and frankly I'm finding it rather hard. Perhaps at a party in a hot and summer clime or wedding (though you wouldn't want to upstage the bride) but in your local town or city?

So my suggestion on how to incorporate the all white trend into your wardrobe this summer is to go for a more casual look. White denim is having a fashion moment, but if I was dressing a more mature client I'd be more inclined to suggest an off-white pair of jeans or chinos instead. You could then pair them with a white polo shirt, a white cotton or linen shirt and a textured cotton knit, and it becomes more of a wearable trend. Classic Converse would work well, tan shoes and belt or desert boots.

Berluti Nicole Farhi Dolce & Gabbana APC Hartford Gant Clarks Andersons 

Fifties style shirts 

Personally I rather like this look. Along with GF's sister (photographer Carole Evans), I also frequent the Lindy hopping/jive scene where a large proportion of the men dress in 40's and 50's style clothing from when these dances were popular. The 50's style shirts seen on the catwalks are an unusually practical option for summer, and easy to translate to your wardrobe.

One word of caution though, when you're wearing something retro and you're a little more mature, guard against looking as if you've had it from the first time round, by teaming it with modern, up to date pieces and avoid wearing an entire look from that era.

Nicole Farhi Missoni Canali Jigsaw French Connection Folk

Pink 

From the palest to the most neon and everything in between, pink was the colour on the Spring Summer catwalks. So if, like me (and me, GF), you believe that real men do wear pink, then get hunting for the shade that most suits your complexion.

Here's what I would advise: If you have Ryan Gosling type colouring ie. fair hair and complexion and blue/green eyes - choose a pale or dusty pink. If you're more like Michael McIntyre - dark hair, pale skin, and dark eyes - go for a bright, fuschia pink. If your colouring is warmer like Damian Lewis' and you have sandy or ginger hair and freckly skin - then look for more of a salmon or coral pink. Or if you have similar colouring to George Lamb with olive skin, grey or dark hair and brown eyes then a deeper shade of a warm salmon pink will look better on you. Combine it with neutrals like grey, navy and brown and white. If you're still not sure about wearing a large amount of pink then a flash of it in a pocket square, tie or socks will add a modern youthful touch to an outfit.

Burberry Prorsum Paul Smith Richard James Marks & Spencer Jet 8 Duchamp

Suits with t-shirts

Just when we'd got used to men dressing up more, I've noticed the designers are now going back to a more relaxed way of styling and it seems there's a return to the 90's trend of wearing trainers with suits. There's more relaxed, unstructured tailoring around with a shift away from the very skinny, tight silhouette that's been dominating the menswear scene for the past few years. As you can see from the images below, many of the shows were styled with t-shirts worn with suits and I think this could be a good look for the older man to try out. I can see it working really well with an unstructured cotton, seersucker or linen suit for an informal summer wedding or outdoor lunch. Choose a fitted, but not tight, t-shirt that skims rather than clings, with a neckline that sits not too high and not too low, and wear loafers or suede brogues with it.

Calvin Klein Costume National Zegna Jigsaw Oliver Spencer Villain

For more advice, see Sarah's Sartorial Lab blog here.

Jackets and blazers for spring and summer

For spring and summer wear, the unstructured jacket, with linen, cotton, silk and even lightweight tweed or flannel components, is ideal. The absence of lining makes it lighter and cooler. Its informal shape means you can take it off and throw it over one arm without worrying about creases; they're all part and parcel of wearing lightweight jackets and, in my view, improve the looks.

Image origins not known - please get in touch if this is yours

Most jackets follow the conventional structured approach, with a lining and internal pockets - the fit is generally looser, thicker and more formed than the unstructured jacket, which has no (or only half) lining, fewer pockets (where do you put the lining? There will instead be external patch pockets).

Being unlined, the fit is usually closer, slimmer and more casual. It will follow the curve of the shoulders more closely and move with the wearer more easily. One of my favourites is an unlined tweed jacket bought at a Ralph Lauren sale. So comfortable is it that I wear it around the house like a familiar old cardigan. 

Image from Esquire

Nothing looks better for semi-formal or casual wear on men of any age than a blue unstructured blazer, cream or khaki chinos or jeans, a pale blue denim shirt, suede brogues or desert boots and a red polka dot pocket square (and some red socks). Add formality with a knitted silk tie in a plain or lightly spotted primary colour. 

Shortly I'll answer a reader's question about where to find unstructured jackets at all price levels.

Hackett half-lined linen Delave blazer from here 

Cobalt blue and orange - putting sizzle into spring and summer

I've mentioned cobalt blue and orange before - but separately. Both have been seen more frequently over the last year or two. But how about putting the two colours together?

Deji George

Orange and bright blue work well together, as can be seen from the pocket square above from the interesting new brand, Deji George (about whom more here) . At opposite ends of the colour wheel, hot and cool, they positively crackle and pop when next to each other. Here's a selection to put sizzle into your spring and summer.

If you have any favourite orange/cobalt blue in your wardrobe or collection, let me know - I'm happy to do a follow-up post. Hmm... how about a bright blue blazer with orange chinos?

Hackett

Lyle & Scott

British Boxers - OK, they're worn underneath, but why not go the whole hog?

Jigsaw

Marks & Spencer

PinCollarShirts.co.uk

Marks & Spencer

Lyle & Scott

PinCollarShirts.co.uk

London Sock Co

Deji George pocket squares

Hackett lightweight mac

PinCollarShirts.co.uk

Marks & Spencer

Jigsaw Menswear

Lyle & Scott

London Sock Co

Grenson SS14 shoes - and new London shops

I'm determined to try a pair of white or cream brogues for this summer and was interested when Grenson sent details of their new shoes for Spring/Summer 2014. My favourite is the Teddy (bottom) with its cheery blue and white sole.

Grenson also tell me that they've opened two new shops in London, in Mears Street, Soho and at one of my favourite shopping venues, Lambs Conduit Street. If you can't get to those, you can find information about stockists at  www.grenson.co.uk. 

Archie V (below) in new colours this season, in three new Italian calves with a waxy, soft mat finish. Dove grey, azure blue and white with the lightweight Grenson wedge sole. Price £235.00.

Jerry (below) a classic 5 eyelet Derby, similar to styles that have been around for centuries but the difference is it's on a boat sole and in canvas. Price £185.00. 

Teddy (below) a classic wingtip in white soft mat Italian calf leather, with a blue and white lightweight sole, also available in blue. Price £250.00 -

Hackett - let's cheer ourselves up with a white suit

With the rains easing and the birds beginning to sing let's cheer ourselves up with the thought of the coming spring and summer, hopefully not too far way. I've always wanted a white suit, so dreaming of hot days in brilliant sunshine, here's Hackett’s classic and mouthwatering white tailored suit.

Below it's been put with a blue chambray shirt and striped summer scarf in lightweight linen. A paisley pocket square adds interest. The raffia pork-pie hat with green driving shoes may not be your style, but would look the business as you ease out of your vintage Bentley to visit the Cannes Yachting Festival later this year. Just stay off the chips (sorry, pommes frites) with drippy tomato ketchup.

See Hackett's website for more. For a video of the rest of Hackett's SS14 collection see here.

Thom Sweeney - Mr Porter collaboration for SS14

Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney began as Savile Row apprentices and now work together as Thom Sweeney to produce classic British tailoring - David Beckham was wearing one of their suits when he sped down the River Thames to hand over the Olympic flame for the opening ceremony.

For SS14 they have produced an exclusive tailored ready-to-wear collection for Mr Porter - another of the online retailer's successful collaborations with a variety of designers.

A high standard of construction, classic tailoring with a contemporary twist seems to be order of the day. I haven't seen the collection in the flesh, but Thom Sweeney are not going to undermine a good name with poor quality. The suits and jackets look superb - I love the brown double-breasted picture below - well-balanced slimmish tailoring with lovely peak lapels and a dark brown Italian wool cloth.

Mr Porter introduces the collection with the strap-line 'Impeccable Construction - Ageless Suiting'. Indeed - such a classic designs are suitable for men of style of any age. Here is a selection of my favourites from the collection. Prices £345 to £1750. See more on Mr Porter.

Brown DB suit made from Italian wool cloth

Blue two-piece cut from high-twist pure wool cloth from Italian fabric mill Vitale Barberis Canonico - fully canvassed construction

Slim-fit basketweave wool

Slim-fit cotton twill trousers

Jigsaw - SS14

If you'll indulge me in the cold depths of winter, I'd like to show you a few items from the spring/summer 2014 collection of a brand which I haven't explored here before - Jigsaw Menswear.

Jigsaw colours for SS14 menswear

With classic but modern looks, fabrics and cuts and a very original feel to it, Jigsaw should be tried by the man who wants something different but not extreme, whether he's young or a grey fox. In the image below I enjoy my first look at Jigsaw menswear.

Blues and Shoes (shoes made in England by Sanders)

The colours are quite remarkable, as shown by the jacket I'm holding above. The variety of shades of blue, from indigo to pale slate, with splashes of colour set off by muted creams, greys and putty hues, give the collection an impressive cohesion. Textures and small multiple patterns add interest. As designer Frances Walker showed me each piece I decided that I had found a brand that I could happily buy into - one of the aims of my hunt for style as an older man.

Below are a few favourite pieces from Jigsaw's spring/summer collection for 2014. I hope to show you more when the weather has warmed a little - the collection is in Jigsaw Menswear shops, so have a look.

The current Jigsaw-Online collection can be found here - there's some very attractive chunky knitwear.

Marks & Spencer menswear for Spring/Summer 2014 - looking good!

The M&S press day this week gave me another look at their menswear for next Spring and Summer. Bold checks and colours reflect Marks & Spencer's increasing confidence, offering classics enhanced with modern cuts, as shown in the image below.

And the confidence is well-justified. There are some lovely clothes, all marked with great attention to quality and detail. There's not much here I wouldn't be happy to wear. Indeed, I'm hoping, in the new year, to repeat my recent Guardian photo-shoot to show that M&S are offering quality and style fit for all ages of man. 

I've talked about their Best of British collection before - and the sharp tailoring, checks and dapper silhouettes that it introduced are now filtering into the Sartorial and other collections, giving a logical uniformity to the menswear range; a sure sign that M&S feel they are getting it right. 

Overall, I still feel there's a bit of confusion between the different collections, but this is a minor quibble and the wide choice doesn't undermine the quality of the offering and the richness of the choice.

M&S Best of British SS14

M&S Best of British 2014

M&S Best of British 2014

Grey hair on the catwalk - Oliver Spencer SS14 at London Collections: Men, June 2013

I enjoyed seeing the Oliver Spencer show at London Collections: Men in June this year - his usual colourful selection of classics, all given a twist for the man wanting something different, if not too challenging.

And it was good to see a couple of grey-haired models. I posted some still images a few weeks ago, but here's a video of the show with a great soundtrack mixed live by none other than Idris Elba.

Hackett SS14 at London Collections:Men - video

I was at this spectacular show at London Collections: Men last month. There was a touch of anglicised Gatsby, soft colours, checks, boaters, hats and cricket bats. Good classic menswear with that Hackett flair.

The London Philarmonia played and all was right with the world. You'll have to sit through a short advert before this video I'm afraid, but it is about delicious food.

Rake SS14 at London Collections:Men - video

I like the cool classicism of Rake's SS14 collection, shown last week at LC:M. Wearable clothes with a very mature and elegant edge.

See Rake's website for more information.

Richard James SS14 at London Collections:Men - video

One of my favourites at LC:M earlier this week was the Richard James show.

 

London Collections:Men - highlights video

A video outlining some of the main events of London Collections:Men 2013, introduced by none other than Boris Johnson - enjoy the show.

Is there anything for you here, as an older man? Let me know what you like and dislike.

A few grey hairs at London Collections: Men

A few of the well-dressed older men spotted at London Collections:Men over the last few days.

I will be writing more about the exciting brands each represents, offering so much to men of style of all ages, over the next few weeks. Meanwhile, please visit their websites for more information.

Stuart Maxwell of Esk, designers of the most beautiful knitwear www.eskcashmere.com

T-Michael, a real gentleman with whom I shared a taxi and had many great discussions. Designer and bespoke menswear guru - www.norwegianrain.com and www.t-michael.com

David Keyte and Stephanie Porritt of Universal Works - a wonderful brand about which I hope to say more in the not too distant future.