Navy blue - the colour for every man

I realised recently that the major part of my wardrobe is navy blue. For a man, younger or older, navy blue is the new black. It goes with any colour, from your crisp white shirt to the favourite acid-green trainers. My favourite pairings are to put navy blue with grey (see the image below from Crew Clothing) and with orange (here's a link to a previous post on this topic).

Overcombe jacket, grey Oxford jumper Crewe Clothing Co. - blue and grey together

Navy blue suits a wide spectrum of formality, from dinner jackets to jeans. The last few years have seen the rise in the deep blue evening suit (or tuxedo), popular because it shows up as a luxurious midnight blue under artificial light. For work, a navy blue suit is ideal. A classic of simple elegance, it looks superb with a striped shirt and silk Paisley tie. For casual wear, dark navy is the colour of raw denim jeans or of a wool or waxed-cotton pea coat. 

A navy flannel made to measure suit from Susannah Hall Tailors

The CEO of Whistles, Jane Shepherdson, has said: "When I see someone in navy, I think they are sophisticated, effortless, not trying too hard but with an innate sense of style," and she continues, "It is more forgiving than black, less harsh and carries with it a subtle whiff of sophistication. It stripes better than any other colour, and looks both classic and sharp at the same time." 

Smart: blue business coat. Hackett AW14

Casual: Navy and tan from Crew Clothing Co. Abingdon navy gingham shirt

The colour flatters a man so well that it was selected by the Royal Navy as the main colour for its uniforms many years ago. The Navy, keen to keep everything shipshape, recognised that Jack would look good in blue; and certainly women seemed to agree. The nautical look is now popular with both high street brands like Whistles (below) as well as retailers with one foot genuinely in the sea, like Crew Clothing Co, which started in water sports.

Whistles textured pea coat - the nautical look

So, navy blue is a useful colour for a man, whatever his skin tone or hair colour. It covers a range of hues from midnight blue to a cobalt or dark royal blue, so adding to its flexibility. The only problem is that, as in my case, it can become the easy option and you find your wardrobe has become too blue. In that case relieve the effect with contrasting textures (as below) or with colourful accessories; bright socks, ties, pocket squares and sweaters. Alternatively, play with different shades and tones of blue, the overall effect can be striking.

However you do it, use the versatility of navy blue as a base for more daring sartorial adventures.

Oliver Spencer SS15 - shades and textures of blue

Links to suppliers -

Crew Clothing Co. (to whom I'm grateful for their sponsorship of this post.)

Susannah Hall Tailors.

Whistles Menswear.

Hackett.

Oliver Spencer.

Hackett parka - winter approaches

The last time I owned a parka was in my teens when I owned one of those khaki ones, with orange lining and cheap fake fur around the hood. For AW14 Hackett have produced the real thing, with a generous coyote-fur hood, deep pockets and water-resistant exterior. Ideal for those fast-approaching chilly days. Coming soon to Hackett.

Hackett - genuine horn-rimmed specs reviving the retro style

Horn-rimmed glasses, made originally either from horn or tortoiseshell, became popular in the early twentieth century. They're now usually reproduced in plastic, but Hackett have designed these genuine buffalo and rams' horn spectacles frames for release in January 2015. I couldn't resist them and am grateful to Hackett for allowing us a preview.

Carefully crafted from real horn, each piece is chosen to ensure a good balance of colour and grain within the natural material. Riveted hinges are used, mitred joints meet seamlessly with fronts and temples are sculpted to allow natural give and comfort. There are four styles in six colours, from light tan and browns to deep rich blacks and greys.

Close inspection shows those interesting little variations that you get from the hand-crafting of natural materials - and no two are the same - these are clearly not plastic reproductions. For more information, contact Hackett.

I wear vintage-style tortoiseshell-effect specs myself and reckon that the retro feel suits both the younger and older man, looking good either with sunglasses or optical prescription lenses. What do you think? What styles of glasses so you prefer?

Grey Fox taking part in Hackett's #10Men1City campaign

I'm grateful to Hackett for the invitation to participate in #10Men1City to celebrate the unveiling of their AW14 collection. The campaign follows "ten of the most significant style influencers around London" (Hackett's description, not mine) wearing their favourite jacket from Hackett’s new season range. 

Images Hackett

As the ten chosen gentlemen visit their favourite spots in London we'll be uploading pictures onto our Instagram accounts. No doubt we'll be seeing a wide range of London's sites, from the top of St. Paul’s dome to our favourite back alley cafes. Images will be shared across Hackett’s social media channels throughout the four weeks, with weekly updates on the Hackett website. The brand will then choose one image that they think best captures the influencer’s own distinctive styling, matched with their vision of England’s great capital.

It's hard to take pictures of yourself on an iPhone (although I do confess to the odd selfie) so I'm very grateful to my friend and blog colleague, Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab, for patiently helping out on occasion. I haven't asked her to do any styling, so shortcomings in that respect are all  mine! She has simply taken some of the shots.

My jacket is a crisply-tailored, semi-structured piece made from a tactile and luxurious wool/angora blend specially made in the Scottish borders - and very nice it is too. The range is available from Hackett here from £325.

I'm obviously by far the oldest of the ten, and it's good to see Hackett maintaining their lead as a brand that recognises that the older man has a place in the mainstream of menswear style. The ten are, Seb Law (@sebulous), Scott Fraser (@scottfrasersimpson), Derek Addo (@Derek_dash), Zak Velsvoir (@zakvelsvoir), Nas Abraham (@nas_abraham), Kenny Ho (@kennyhostylist), Dan Rhone (@mfminstagram),Talha Velsvoir (@tvelsvoir) and Martell Campbell (@mrflyycampbell) and me (@greyfoxblog). 

Please follow and support the campaign on Instagram #10MEN1CITY @Hackettlondon.

What to wear at the polo - Hackett style

I had a wonderful day at the Rundle Cup polo event recently. Sponsored by Hackett, the Cup is a hard-fought match between the Army and Royal Navy polo teams.

 Captain Harry Wales playing for the Army team (in red) - Image Hackett

You'd think that the Navy had little use for horses on board their ships, so the result would be a foregone conclusion, but, although the Army won on this occasion (see below), they don't always have it their own way.

I managed to take a photo of the winning Army team with one hand, while, with my spare hand, I had to physically restrain a young lady from Hackett to prevent her throwing herself at the Royal Prince playing for the Army team.

Jeremy Hackett awards the Rundle Cup to the successful Army Team - Image Grey Fox

Style for men at a polo event? Smart casual is fine - blazer or linen/cotton jacket, lightweight trousers or chinos (bring out the brightly-coloured legwear for the event), deck shoes or summer brogues and colourful socks. A good hat, usually a Panama, is essential. All available from Hackett, of course.

Images Grey Fox

Hackett - River Tweed country style for AW14

This sunny, warm weather is all very well, but I sometimes look forward to the mellow mists of autumn when a man can wear tweed with soft-hued knits, country-style brogues, hats and coats. Hackett promise us a country-style River Tweed collection this autumn/winter, inspired by calm days by a crystal-clear stream hoping the fish will rise to a newly-tied fly. 

Watch out on the Hackett website later in the year.

Selected prices:

Cable knit socks in burgundy - £16

Hackett Cheaney Fox Brothers brogue - £375

Tweed trousers in brown - £195

Fly tartan tie in green - £90

Tattersal check shirt - £95

Tall hip flask - £90

Cobalt blue and orange - putting sizzle into spring and summer

I've mentioned cobalt blue and orange before - but separately. Both have been seen more frequently over the last year or two. But how about putting the two colours together?

Deji George

Orange and bright blue work well together, as can be seen from the pocket square above from the interesting new brand, Deji George (about whom more here) . At opposite ends of the colour wheel, hot and cool, they positively crackle and pop when next to each other. Here's a selection to put sizzle into your spring and summer.

If you have any favourite orange/cobalt blue in your wardrobe or collection, let me know - I'm happy to do a follow-up post. Hmm... how about a bright blue blazer with orange chinos?

Hackett

Lyle & Scott

British Boxers - OK, they're worn underneath, but why not go the whole hog?

Jigsaw

Marks & Spencer

PinCollarShirts.co.uk

Marks & Spencer

Lyle & Scott

PinCollarShirts.co.uk

London Sock Co

Deji George pocket squares

Hackett lightweight mac

PinCollarShirts.co.uk

Marks & Spencer

Jigsaw Menswear

Lyle & Scott

London Sock Co

Hackett - let's cheer ourselves up with a white suit

With the rains easing and the birds beginning to sing let's cheer ourselves up with the thought of the coming spring and summer, hopefully not too far way. I've always wanted a white suit, so dreaming of hot days in brilliant sunshine, here's Hackett’s classic and mouthwatering white tailored suit.

Below it's been put with a blue chambray shirt and striped summer scarf in lightweight linen. A paisley pocket square adds interest. The raffia pork-pie hat with green driving shoes may not be your style, but would look the business as you ease out of your vintage Bentley to visit the Cannes Yachting Festival later this year. Just stay off the chips (sorry, pommes frites) with drippy tomato ketchup.

See Hackett's website for more. For a video of the rest of Hackett's SS14 collection see here.

Hackett AW14 at London Collections: Men - great clothes and grey hair on the catwalk

A couple of weeks ago I met Mark Owens, Marketing Director at Hackett. Knowing my wish to see more older models in menswear advertising to encourage interest in menswear among older men, he told me that the Hackett show would include some grey hairs - and so it did. Here's a video of today's Hackett show. Superb clothes for every man.

(I've added a better-edited video since first posting this).

Hackett's new Regent Street store - a chance to visit London's menswear heart

I visited the new Hackett store in Regent Street just before Christmas and liked what I saw. Lots of space, style and a huge choice of menswear for all ages (from childhood) and tastes. Here are a few images of the new store to whet your appetite. Visit the Hackett website for more information.

The Hackett sale is on and a visit to Regent Street will take in much that is outstanding in the London menswear world. A few doors away are J.Crew (who've also opened a new store), Austin Reed, Aquascutum, Brooks Brothers, Duchamp, Liberty and all the delights of Oxford Street, Savile Row and St James's within easy reach. Further out are many smaller high quality offerings, such as Trunk in Chiltern Street, Jigsaw Menswear in Dover Street and St Christopher's Place, Simon Carter in Shepherd Market and many others.

Hackett and the Made in Britain discussion

Hot on the heels of the opening of Hackett's new store on Regent Street, London, The Times today reports that Jeremy Hackett... 

"has raised the hackles of the [British] clothing manufacturers by claiming that the textile industry is incapable of making his 'essential British kit'."

Jeremy Hackett at London Collections Men

To read the full report you need to be a Times subscriber, but you'll find it here. To summarise, it reports that the UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) has taken exception to Mr Hackett's reported comments that the company once made 95 per cent of its clothes in Britain, but cannot now do so because the clothing manufacturing industry has 'been decimated'. The response of the the UKFT's chief executive is reported to be that resources do exist to manufacture in Britain, but that Hackett should invest to create the capacity the company needs to manufacture here. 

Assuming the reports are accurate, how fair are they? As ever, there's much truth and on both sides and a sprinkling of realism in Mr Hackett's comments, as reported.

I happen to like Hackett's clothes. They're almost perfect for the older man in search of style. The company does like to play heavily on the Britishness of its menswear, but it doesn't make misleading claims about it being manufactured in the UK. It's talking about design inspiration and influences; obvious from the heavy use of very British-looking cloths and cuts.

Readers will know that I've reported here and on my Guardian blog about the resurgence on British-made menswear and I had the chance to discuss this briefly with Jeremy Hackett at an event a few weeks ago. His response was one I've heard from many larger companies that would like to make clothes in the UK - at present the capacity doesn't always exist to supply the quantity or quality required for the high street. Even companies like Marks & Spencer are having to make their Best of British range in smaller quantities.

Mr Hackett is right, the British industry was decimated over the last few decades. Of course, this raises the issue of how it came about, why and who was responsible - but that's a discussion that isn't constructive or relevant to this blog post. Hackett does make some of its clothes here, in particular bespoke, and some of their clothes and fabrics are UK-made. I've no doubt at all that they would like to make more.

The answer to the problem, as the UKFT points out, is to invest and to revive our once massive production. I believe that a resurgence is starting and I've recorded on my blogs how smaller companies are manufacturing in the UK - much to the appreciation of countries like Japan and China, which can't get enough of our British-made fashion products. Hopefully greater investment will allow greater capacity so that larger retailers like Hackett can revive volume British production of menswear.

On a more personal note, I'd like to write about Hackett's products, wherever they're made. They're not an easy company to keep in touch with - I suppose Grey Fox is small beer for them - but I hope to write more about them in due course. In the meantime, visit Hackett's website here.

The UKFT can be found here.
Grey Fox's list of suppliers of UK-made menswear and accessories - click here.
Grey Fox on The Guardian - click here.

In which Hackett and Cooper Bikes collaborate and Grey Fox has a good time

Recently Grey Fox went to a jolly event in Fulham at which Hackett and Cooper Bikes celebrated the launch of a collaborative range of bikes. There is a lovely traditional touring bike and a single-speed - both constructed from the legendary Reynolds 531 steel tubing and with Brooks saddles and lovely retro touches. Two commuter bikes with internal hub gears complete the line-up.

The day was a good introduction to the bikes, with various competitions including a time trial (won by yours truly), a bike polo match and a styling competition (most definitely not won by yours truly). I loved the touring and single speed bikes, which are well set-up for their respective purposes and look good enough for the gentleman of style who likes to work up the odd sweat for the good of his health.

For more information see Cooper Bikes website and Hackett London.

The Cooper/Hackett single-speed bike - beautifully chromed Reynolds 531 tubing

The Cooper/Hackett touring bike - traditional Cooper green enamelled Reynolds 531 tubed frame

Grey Fox losing the styling competition

Jeremy Hackett and one of his lovely Sussex spaniels

Hackett launches 'The Prince of Wales Check Collection'

I love Prince of Wales check, so was delighted to see that Hackett has designed a new collection to raise money for youth charity, The Prince’s Trust. The collaboration, ‘The Prince of Wales Check Collection’, has used an exclusive version of the grey check/blue over-check Prince of Wales cloth in a range of garments and accessories to be launched this week.

At least £100,000 will be donated from sales of the products by Hackett to The Prince’s Trust to help disadvantaged young people into work, education or training. The Prince’s Trust was set up by HRH The Prince of Wales in 1976. The Trust’s logo, incorporating The Prince of Wales’ feathers, will appear on specially designed labels.

The collection includes suits, jackets and accessories such as ties, scarves, bags, an umbrella and even a blanket. The cloth comes from the UK’s leading mills such as Fox Brothers, Lovat and William Halstead. 

First worn by Edward VII, when he was Prince of Wales, the check (known in the US as glen check, from Glen Urquhart) became internationally famous thanks to The Duke of Windsor, whose sartorial taste has influenced men’s fashion to this day. 'The Prince of Wales Check Collection' is available in all Hackett stores and online at Hackett's website.

For more on Prince of Wales check on Grey Fox Blog, click here.

Further information about The Prince’s Trust is available here.

Older men in fashion advertising

I've been updating my Pinterest board where I'm collecting images of older men in fashion advertising.

Why do I do that? Because they're a rare sight and we need to persuade the myopic menswear industry that they'll get access to a large and very affluent customer demographic if they advertise to men over 40. Men of that age group can lose confidence as they see high street shops selling largely to younger men. A little encouragement, in the form of advertising acknowledging that a) older men exist, and b) they can be stylish too, will encourage them to buy.

I'd be grateful if you'd pay my Pinterest board a visit and, if you know any more (like this example by Hackett), please let me know.

Hackett SS14 at London Collections:Men - video

I was at this spectacular show at London Collections: Men last month. There was a touch of anglicised Gatsby, soft colours, checks, boaters, hats and cricket bats. Good classic menswear with that Hackett flair.

The London Philarmonia played and all was right with the world. You'll have to sit through a short advert before this video I'm afraid, but it is about delicious food.

Hackett - purveyors of fine shirts and suits

I can remember when, in the early eighties, a new shop opened in Parson's Green London, on the New King's Road. It was housed in a small white building with, I seem to recall, three windows - square, round and, around the door, an elongated capital P-shape. It was the young Hackett store, moving on from its origins as a Portobello Road market stall run by Jeremy Hackett and Ashley Lloyd-Jennings.

Jeremy Hackett - the archetype of the grey fox

Nowadays Hackett is at the centre of the menswear establishment and is one of the first stops for the older man in search of better quality mature and classic fashions. Hackett's Spring/Summer 2013 men's brochure even contains a man with grey hair - so it's good to find a menswear company embracing the possibility that older men are interested in, and want to buy, clothes - well done Hackett! With such a record you'll guess that I've written about Hackett here on the blog before (and you'll find the Spring/Summer '13 video which includes a grey-haired man as well!)

Their range is wide, but, with two weddings coming up soon, I wanted to look at men's shirts and formal suits in particular. Hackett's off-the-peg suits come in most materials, from cotton and linen through to wool and mohair. Most styles are catered for and range from classic double-breasted pinstripe, through a beautiful 1960s style mohair, to a three-piece linen suit (each of these three is illustrated below). Suit prices vary between £550 and £825. For more information about suits see Hackett's web site. Personal tailoring services are available in some stores.

As you'd expect, Hackett's men's formal shirt designs and shapes are many and varied - and price between £80 and £120. Some are slim fit, some are tailored; the range contains all manner of collar and cuff styles - some even contain elastane for added stretch. I've chosen a selection below to give a flavour of what is available. The Hackett formal shirts can be found here.

This post accords with my partnership policies here.