To mark the start of my Best of British Menswear Week, I've been to see Mark Powell.
Historically, much of Great Britain's success has been based on the contradictions it displays to the world. Its toughness and belligerence hide the essential kindness that drove the British to pioneer parliamentary democracy and fairness. Mark Powell, London-based bespoke tailor, is just like that. He's very British - in appearance a hard East Ender; in reality a highly creative, humorous and generous man.
Historically, much of Great Britain's success has been based on the contradictions it displays to the world. Its toughness and belligerence hide the essential kindness that drove the British to pioneer parliamentary democracy and fairness. Mark Powell, London-based bespoke tailor, is just like that. He's very British - in appearance a hard East Ender; in reality a highly creative, humorous and generous man.
Mark Powell |
Like many men in their fifties, life's experiences bring focus. This clarity of purpose shows in Mark Powell's tailoring and it's easy to recognise his work. But there are contradictions; is his style classic or modern, nostalgic or cutting edge? In reality it's a bit of all these things. Nothing is ever truly original; it's how he uses inspiration that makes a man an artist.
Maybe the best approach is to see how Mark Powell sees himself. He describes his work as follows:
Maybe the best approach is to see how Mark Powell sees himself. He describes his work as follows:
"Established in 1985, Mark Powell is one of London's most iconic and influential bespoke tailors. Renowned for his nostalgically and classically inspired tailoring, combined with experimental cuts and styling, he was one of the first to successfully bridge the gap between the traditions of Savile Row and contemporary street style".
The Mark Powell bespoke stamp is unique and widely-appreciated by the many big names he has dressed from the worlds of film, television, music and sport from George Clooney, Harrison Ford, Mick and Bianca Jagger, David Bowie, through style giants such as Bryan Ferry and Naomi Campbell to The Killers, film director Joe Wright, Keira Knightley, Sean Bean and most recently, Paul Weller, Martin Freeman and Bradley Wiggins.
Nostalgia is there, but not in a mawkish way. I saw tailoring influences from Edwardian through every decade of the intervening century; most recently the mod look has been seen on Bradley Wiggins and Paul Weller. Essentially it is sharp tailoring with brightly-described details in buttons, cuffs, collars, taking ideas and colour from earlier looks and adding a very contemporary feel. And yet somehow Mark captures the essence of the wearer, not imposing a style on anyone.
Despite, or because of, the celebrity links, Mark has worked with more establishment organisations like Marks & Spencer and the DTI to bring his style, and that of Britain, to the high street and to the world.
I really enjoyed my meeting with Mark Powell. He was informative, friendly, passionate about is work and generous with his time. Several people had described him to me as 'scary' - what nonsense. If you want a garment that reflects your personality, rather than shows you up as a tailoring clone, go to Mark Powell. This makes him ideal for the man confident about what and who he is; in general that means the older man as, despite having its roots in nostalgia, this is a very mature style.
To pigeon-hole his work is impossible - the most accurate description is that it's Mark Powell.
To pigeon-hole his work is impossible - the most accurate description is that it's Mark Powell.
Mark Powell, 2 Marshall Street, London, W1F 9BA.
Telephone +44 (0)20 7287 5498
mark@markpowellbespoke.co.uk
Telephone +44 (0)20 7287 5498
mark@markpowellbespoke.co.uk
I get that you like Mark Powell. And I'm not trying to be overly picky, but the first shot with him in a sport coat with lapels the size of a 777's wingspan...
ReplyDeleteTake a look at how poorly his collar fits. Basic dressing style says that one's collar should hug the back of the neck. His has an unfortunate and huge gap, which tends to undermine one's faith in how he would dress others.
Great post- Cant deny Mark Powells skill although I can't help but agree with the above regarding pic one? perhaps it was the vintage look he was going for? Things weren't so well fitted then where they
ReplyDeleteI'm with anonymous, I really don't get the exaggerated lapels and as for the breast pocket it just looks silly and awkward.
ReplyDeleteWell I'm all for any anyone who shows flair and individuality. As a celebrated tailor Mark is wise to show his outgoing sense of style in his clothes - why does a man have to ape everyone else in his choices?
ReplyDeleteI spoke to Mark about the collar. It seems that it's a quirk of the way he was standing that made the collar stand up. You squirm around in your suit jacket, hands in pockets or whatever, and you'll find it can move out of place if you move awkwardly.
GF