Book Review: Contemporary Menswear by Steven Vogel et al.

Contemporary Menswear describes itself as 'a global guide to independent men's fashion'. The book profiles over fifty menswear labels, designers and hangers-on such as bloggers and websites that stand out in contemporary menswear. 

Image Grey Fox

You won't find here large brands such as Levi's or Ralph Lauren, nor more establishment menswear retailers or tailors such as can be found on Savile Row. This is because menswear is defined in a more restricted way. While the word is usually used to mean clothing for men generally, in this book menswear is described as a trend. Emerging from streetwear, it's seen as 'a cleaner, more mature and preppier look'. It's part of a lineage of 'careful artisanal craftsmen' and is something very modern in terms of sustainability and practicality, with a romantic element.

Autumn/Winter 2012/13 © Mark McNairy

Help with the definition is best found by looking at the brands in the book, from Albam to Tellason, brands from all corners of the world. All have roots in heritage, tradition, quality and, importantly, in vintage clothes and styling. Naturally, there are British brands here, including Albam, Folk, Grenson Shoes, Nigel Cabourn and Universal Works.

© Nigel Cabourn

Inevitably, there are many labels that you won't find here. The authors seem apologetic about this, but some brands and their PR companies didn't reply to their approaches (I know the problem), others are not independent, or have simply copied a trend, or are just too large. The omissions don't matter; the book is a successful look at an important element of modern men's style. 

Nigel Cabourn’s vintage shoe collection © Nigel Cabourn 

The brands are described in reviews or interviews and the book also contains contributions on diverse subjects including street style photography, Japanese menswear and blogging. The images are good quality and capture well the spirit of each brand.

I'd highly recommend it as a good read and browse to anyone interested in menswear, however the word is defined. Contemporary Menswear, by Steven Vogel, Nicholas Schonberger and Calum Gordon, published by Thames & Hudson 20 October 2014.

A vintage Filson’s hunting jacket © Filson