Book Review: A Gentleman's Look Book by Bernhard Roeztel

Bernhard Roetzel has written, studied and indulged in classic menswear style for many years. This, his latest work, A Gentleman's Look Book, to be published in July, celebrates the timelessness of style through the power of the image. The book centres on portraits of men with strong senses of their own personal style. I was delighted to be selected as one of these and there are a couple of images in the book, which covers looks from formal through to casual.

For those interested in the clothes, information is given about the tailors and retailers whose products are being worn. These vary between Europe and the US, making this a truly international effort. In our youth-obsessed fashion world it's always a relief to find a book which celebrates a more mature approach to style. 

A Gentleman's Look Book by Bernhard Roetzel, published by H.F. Ullman on 31 July 2017.

Book review: The Pocket Square by A.C.Phillips, pub. Thames & Hudson

The Pocket Square by A.C. Phillips is a nicely designed book presenting 22 essential pocket square folds in a colourful, graphic format with clear diagrams and minimal text.

Peppered with bons mots from celebrities who've worn pocket squares over the years, the book also gives information about the origins and history of the humble pocket hank. Published by Thames & Hudson at a modest £9.95.

I was sent this book for review.

Book review: The Suit, Form, Function & Style by Christopher Breward

The Suit, Form, Function & Style is written by Christopher Breward, Principal of Edinburgh College of Art and Professor of Cultural History at Edinburgh University. While somewhat academic in style, this is a fascinating social and cultural history of the suit.

Image © Woolmark Archive (Australian Wool Innovation Ltd) and the London College of Fashion (top right)

The suit is such a familiar garment nowadays that we rarely think about its origins. These lie in the end of the 17th century when its pervasive influence began, originating as a symbol of status and becoming democratised throughout the last century. Now its classic lines are worked on by menswear designers keen to 'prove their iconoclastic intent', as Breward describes it. But, as ever in fashion (and menswear in particular), change is more apparent than real and Breward concludes that the suit remains 'a prized symbol of distinction and power...' He sees it as enduring for at least another 400 years, a conclusion I'd agree with. 

I'd add to Breward's conclusion by adding my view that the suit has extended its life by taking on a role as a casual garment. With more comfortable construction, relaxed fabrics (like denim, cotton and linen) and casual styles, the modern suit is no longer just a formal symbol of status.

Essential reading; persevere with the academic writing style and enjoy this as a book adding much of fascination to the history of the suit. Published by Reaktion Books Ltd, £18. 

The With Love Project on Kickstarter: British makers & crafts people

The With Love Project is launching a £9,000 campaign on Kickstarter to raise funds for the print of a book, With Love, which captures more than thirty of the UK’s traditional artists and makers, revealing their craft through outstanding photography and personal stories. 

Chris Evans of the Project told me more:

Just over two years ago we started the With Love Project. It’s our search to find people who produce things with a passion and a purpose, who truly care about what they do and what they make. We’ve traveled from the top to the bottom of the country, from the Outer Hebrides to the tip of Cornwall, and asked everyone we met the same question… why do you do what you do? 

So far we’ve met nearly 40 inspiring individuals [and have] been humbled by their openness and enthused by their work and attitude. Some days we’ve driven for ten hours to meet people; other days we’ve ventured out of the UK. Each and every journey is filled with excitement and anticipation of hearing another great story; an insight into someone’s thinking, their way of life and a chunk of knowledge and advice to hold on to. We have met traditional furniture makers at the top of their game, motorcycle manufacturers hand-building by eye, wheelwrights who can trace their family trade back to the 1300s and tailors who’ve produced suits for Pavarotti. Each one of these people has let us into their world after just a phone call or an email, understanding what we are trying to achieve and happy to share what they are producing. 

Now, with the help of GF Smith and Kickstarter, we want to create a beautiful limited edition hardback book of the people we’ve met. There aren’t many projects which include a sign writer who’s worked for the Kings of Leon and a female blacksmith artist from Wiltshire, next to a fair trade coffee roaster and a couple glass blowing their way into numerous collections and national museums. 

This promises to be a unique book of inspiring people, creating things with a passion and a purpose. To make this project a reality they have to hit their funding total; if they don’t, the book can’t be printed. To find out how you can reserve yourself a copy of the book along with some exciting rewards from the makers and producers featured in the book, visit their Kickstarter page here. 

David Hieatt of Hiut Denim Co. - one of those featured in the book

Kickstarter pledges range from £5 to £1,000, with rewards including limited edition books and prints, bespoke gifts designed especially for the project and unique experiences with the With Love interviewees.

Menswear reading for 2016: three recently published books

Books are a rich source of inspiration for a man looking for style. Here are three very different books published recently which I'd recommend.

Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain's Iconic Brands by Crompton, Egelnick & Friederichs (above) At a time when British menswear is undergoing increasing international  success, this book celebrates some of the greatest names in British clothing manufacture. Many of them (Lock, James Smith and John Lobb for example) have remained in family ownership for centuries. When I started this blog, I was only dimly aware of the depth of this historic and valuable resource and, in general, our oldest and greatest brands are better known and appreciated outside Britain than they are within our shores.

This book is part of the effort to redress this balance. Simon Crompton is well-known for his blog Permanent Style and his writing captures the passion that underlies many of these brands, whose owners are all too aware of the value of the heritage they safeguard. Needless to say, the quality of what they produce is of the highest. The photographs complement the text, showing machinery ancient and modern, the products they make and those working the machinery with great affection and respect.

Of course, this book is selective and there are others that could have been included, but as a snapshot this book is an important record of the companies featured. Luckily most are seeing an upturn in fortunes as their skills and quality become appreciated around the world. Long may it continue. Buy this book if you have any interest in our great clothing and accessories industries. Published by Prestel. Buy Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain's Iconic Brands.

A life in Fashion: The Wardrobe of Cecil Beaton by Benjamin Wild (above). Cecil Beaton's creativity expressed itself in his sartorial flamboyance and he patronised many of the best tailors, shirtmakers and accessories companies in his search for style. Taking elements from international fashion, he developed his own distinctive look. This book looks in detail at his wardrobe, his choice of clothes and how he used them to emphasise his body shape. He worked closely with his tailors, using their skills to achieve what he was looking for.

As one man's search for style, enhanced by his special theatrical creativity, I found this book fascinating. Beaton's intense sensitivity about his appearance clearly fuelled his constant search for sartorial success. As a detailed account of a man's search for perfection, this is a fascinating book, but it's also a useful outline of menswear history during the twentieth century. Thames & Hudson. Buy A Life in Fashion: The Wardrobe of Cecil Beaton.

The Vintage Fashion Bible by Wayne & Gerardine Hemingway (above) provides a different sort of inspiration, recording men's and women's styles from the 1920s to 1990s. Its design is a retro as its content; it doesn't have any of the modern minimalist appearance of the other books reviewed here, but its crowded look and clashing colours and fonts contain a treasure trove of information.

Written by the founders of the Red or Dead fashion label, the book also offers tips on how to select and buy vintage clothing. Worth a look for the richness of the inspiration it contains. Published by David & Charles. Buy The Vintage Fashion Bible: The style guide to vintage looks 1920s -1990s.

Note: If you choose to buy these books through the links above you will be supporting this blog through Amazon's Associates' Scheme.

Book review: The Parisian Gentleman, Hugo Jacomet

This huge and magisterial book is by Hugo Jacomet who founded The Parisian Gentleman* blog which looks at the best of men's style all over the world. The book seeks out some very well-known names and many much less-known and introduces us to the delights of Paris as a centre of menswear excellence. 

The profundity of my ignorance is such that I find that many of what I thought were Italian are in fact Parisian businesses (like Berluti,  Camps De Luca and Cifonelli) and it's fascinating to read their histories. The huge illustrations are high quality and beautifully presented.

From the best of tailoring to shoes, fragrances and accessories, this is a fascinating and educational book for any man with even a passing interest in style and quality. See Thames & Hudson.

*The Parisian Gentleman

Book review: Herdwick Common - for all who care about a way of life

Adam Atkinson is the founder of Cherchbi whose high quality leather goods and bags are bought by those who really appreciate British craftsmanship. The tweed for his products is made from the wool of that remarkable breed, the Herdwick sheep. This book, with superb photographs by David Ellison, celebrates the Herdwick, its shepherds and farmers and the beautiful Cumbrian countryside which has been the Herdwick's home since they were introduced, some say, by Viking settlers.

The life of the Herdwick is interesting. As lambs they become 'heafed' to their piece of fell and there they stay from year to year. If the farm is sold the flock stays, as they are part of the land. The Lake District looks as it does because of their grazing and they are so much part of life and the environment that their disappearance would have far-reaching consequences. 

Unfortunately their fleeces are not highly regarded for wool, which is why it's good to see Cherchbi using it for their tweed. However, their meat is exceptional and their hardiness helps strengthen less robust lowland sheep breeds.

The book contains an introduction by the most famous of Cumbria's farmers, James Rebanks, in which he movingly and persuasively describes the vital importance of this ancient breed and the way of life it requires. And yet the average annual income of a fell farmer is £8,500. Read about a fascinating and vital way of life.

Herdwick Common is available from Cherchbi priced at £25 and also for sale is a collection of the best prints from the book (an example is pictured below).

Book Review: The Finest Menswear in the World, Simon Crompton

This remarkable book takes a very personal but supremely expert look at the best of high quality menswear. The author, Simon Crompton, is well-known for his Permanent Style blog and he's used the expertise he's acquired over years of wearing and collecting quality menswear to identify the best of tailoring and men's accessories.

His introduction contains a thought that is also a central theme to my blog here. Crompton makes the point that menswear branding has become all-powerful, with labels blinding men to genuine quality. He hopes to encourage men to seek out and buy based purely on quality rather than name. The attraction of this approach to the man who prefers to seek out the best for himself, rather than be a slavish follower of fashion, is obvious. 

It is likely to be the already converted who will buy this book, but hopefully more men will be diverted from irrationally following labels to seek out products really worth buying and owning. Buy the book here: The Finest Menswear in the World: The Craftsmanship of Luxury

Permanent Style Blog

Published by Thames & Hudson.

Book review: The Sartorialist X - celebrating 10 years of street style

Published today is Scott Schuman's third book, The Sartorialist X, which celebrates the tenth anniversary of his blog, The Sartorialist, and covers the best of the last three years, spanning New York, London, Milan, as well as more unusual places like Peru, Bali, India, and Bhutan.

It was The Sartorialist that fuelled my search for style as an older man in the early days of Grey Fox Blog. As can be seen below, his shots of older men of style provide us with much inspiration.

The Sartorialist is still one of my most-visited blogs. In capturing what men and women, young and old, are wearing on the street he has been partly responsible for starting a 'ground up' approach to fashion, with trends being dictated by those selecting and wearing clothes, rather than by the fashion houses themselves.

This book, his third selection from the images on his blog, shows the continuing development of his skills as street and portrait photographer. From a photography perspective it's the best of his books. His portraits capture colour, style and character with immense subtly and power. He is particularly adept at capturing female beauty.

Until recently I felt that too many of his subjects, photographed at fashion weeks and shows, were linked to the fashion industry. This resulted in rather clone-like menswear style. There's nothing wrong with images of Italians at Pitti Uomo dressed in blazers, jeans and brogues without socks, but I wanted more of the ordinary man and woman on the street; those unrelated to fashion. The Sartorialist X suggests that he is now doing this and photographs from countries outside the western fashion scene demonstrate a refreshing new approach. For me, real personal style comes from within, not from the catwalk or those in the industry whose lives are ruled by what they wear.

The Sartorialist X should be on the bookshelves of all interested in photography, street style, fashion and men's and women's clothes. Published by Penguin priced at £20.00.

Buy the book here The Sartorialist: X (The Sartorialist Volume 3)

All images above by The Sartorialist.

Gentlemen: a new book by Jonathan Daniel Pryce and Penhaligon's

This week has brought the launch of a book, Gentlemen celebrating, exploring and recording the contemporary gentleman. A collaboration between outstanding photographer, Jonathan Daniel Pryce, and English fragrance manufacturer, Penhaligon's, the book contains some hundred or so portraits of men of standing and style (and also Grey Fox, image below).

David Evans, Grey Fox Blog, by Jonathan Daniel Pryce/Penhaligon's

There is some discussion about the elusive definition of the word, but creativity, respect for tradition, good manners and sharp wit seem a common characteristic of a gentleman. The superb images bring out so well the personalities of the sitters. The book, designed perhaps to capture the qualities of typical Penhaligon's customers, is on display in Penhaligon's shops.

Book review: Menswear Dog: The New Classics

Over the last two years Menswear Dog had become an internet sensation with thousands of followers on social media. Bodhi, the four year old Shiba Inu and his owners stumbled into fame after posting photos of the dog dressed up online. The images were quickly picked up by the press and fashion industry and Bodhi is now famous.

The first Menswear Dog book is published by Artisan in the UK on 1st May. This full-colour men’s fashion and style hardback book includes over 100 photographs and illustrations. Despite the unusual nature of the model, the book, Menswear Dog: The New Classics (Artisan, £11.99) is full of serious fashion and style advice. The fact that the model is a dog makes the advice more accessible than if the clothes were modelled on a too handsome, too young, too perfect male model, as they invariably are by the fashion industry.

This is a fun book that includes some good stylish outfits that are accompanied by sound advice and tips on items to try with the look, colour matching, wardrobe essentials and what to wear for various seasonal events and venues. This book will soon have you wagging your tail.

And here's a video of Bodhi at work:

Book review: Denim Dudes by Amy Leverton pub. Laurence King

The claim that older men shouldn't wear denim is, of course, nonsense. Denim has been around longer than any of us and no generation has exclusive right to it. A new book, Denim Dudes, by Amy Leverton and published by Laurence King this month, confirms this. Rarely have I seen so many stylish older men wearing double denim; the style police will be reaching for their smelling salts. 

The excellent portraits, shot by a team of photographers, show how widely denim appeals to men of all ages and world-wide: the book's coverage ranges from the US, through Europe, to Japan and Australia.

Denim styles too are diverse. Best battered, often vintage, generally blue, usually unpatterned and always found in a wide range garments and shapes. The attraction of the material is obvious, with links to work-wear, rebellion and informality, denim melds youth and age, appealing to a wide range of independent thinkers. This is style, not fashion. As such denim gets my vote and I highly recommend this book.

This book is for all who have ever worn a pair of jeans, or a denim shirt or jacket. The author, Amy Leverton, is a denim expert who is Director of Denim and Youth Culture at the trend-forecasting website, WGSN. See Laurence King for more information.

Book Review: Menswear Illustration by Richard Kilroy pub. Thames & Hudson

I'm grateful to Thames & Hudson for sending me another menswear book to review. They are the go-to publishers for outstanding books on fashion and Menswear Illustration by illustrator Richard Kilroy, is no exception, featuring up-and-coming menswear fashion illustrators. 

As the book points out, the explosion in sales of menswear means that there has been a rise in men's fashion illustration. This book documents this, recording the new and exciting artistic talent that is emerging.

Clym Evernden, Thom Browne A/W 2014-15, created for A Magazine Curated By (Belgium), 2014. Courtesy Clym Evernden

A look through the book shows a wide variety of styles of illustration, from the photographic and graphic, through the rather derivative to some showing outstanding drawing skills. Many are truly artistic and some, like this image below (and my favourite) even shows the personality of the models.

Jean-Philippe Delhomme, Louis Vuitton and Prada S/S 2014, created for Série Limitée (Les Echos), 2012. Courtesy Jean-Philippe Delhomme

Shohei, Carhartt S/S 2012 advertising campaign, created for Carhartt, 2012. Courtesy Shohei

Many images display an exciting exuberance which reflects the rapid expansion of menswear and the opening up of the availability of a wider selection of styles for men. Menswear is now moving more rapidly (as high fashion, if not at high street level) and the creative energies this has unleashed are evident in the book.

Helen Bullock, Alexander McQueen A/W 2013-14, created for SHOWstudio.com, 2013. Courtesy Helen Bullock

Works in the book will be previewed during London Collections: Men from today to Monday (9th to 12th January 2015) at The Hospital Club, Covent Garden, London. These images will then be exhibited at Paul Smith in Albemarle Street during London Fashion Week later in February. 

The book will be released on the 23rd of February 2015. I recommend it to all with an interest in menswear, fashion, art and illustration.

Julie Verhoeven, Jil Sander S/S 2009, Created for Ponystep (UK), 2008. Courtesy Julie Verhoeven

Book review: The Mr Porter Paperback - The Volume for a Stylish Life, Volume 3

Published just in time for Christmas, this is the third of Mr Porter's guides for men into the pleasures and intricacies and subtleties of style, ownership and living. I missed out on the first two volumes and have yet to catch up with them, but I see that all three are sold as a complete set (see Mr Porter to buy). 

This is a book to dip into to be entertained. From Stars in their Cars to How to Undress in Front of a Lady, here are light-hearted guides, reviews and interviews into many of the fascinating subjects that exercise the minds of the modern gentleman (and even those who aren't gentlemen) of whatever age. Often informative and well-written, it would make an excellent gift for any red or blue-blooded male.

The price is steep at £20 (this is a paperback after all) but, putting that in perspective, it compares well with the price of a round of drinks down the pub. From all bookshops, online or at Mr Porter. 

Book review: Moustaches, Whiskers & Beards L. Hawksley - National Portrai Gallery

I'm reviewing this book too late for Movember, but this is ideal as a gift for the man (or woman, see Barbara Ursulin, below) in your life who proudly maintains a moustache, whiskers or beard. The book goes into the fascinating history, social and political, of facial hair from earliest days.

Illustrated from the huge archives and collections of the National Portrait Gallery in London, it contains many a fascinating fact to keep even the smooth-shaven man or woman entertained for a very long time. Highly-recommended. All images ©NPG.

King James I of England & VI of Scotland, c.1590 Unknown artist ©NPG, London

Barbara Ursulin, late 18th to early 19th century By G. Scott ©NPG

George Cruikshank, 1860sBy John & Charles Watkins ©NPG 

A wonderful book, it may even tempt you to go hirsute. See the National Portrait Gallery website for more information, or buy online or from your local bookshop.

Moustaches, Whiskers & Beards by Lucinda Hawksley - National Portrai Gallery.

Book Review: Contemporary Menswear by Steven Vogel et al.

Contemporary Menswear describes itself as 'a global guide to independent men's fashion'. The book profiles over fifty menswear labels, designers and hangers-on such as bloggers and websites that stand out in contemporary menswear. 

Image Grey Fox

You won't find here large brands such as Levi's or Ralph Lauren, nor more establishment menswear retailers or tailors such as can be found on Savile Row. This is because menswear is defined in a more restricted way. While the word is usually used to mean clothing for men generally, in this book menswear is described as a trend. Emerging from streetwear, it's seen as 'a cleaner, more mature and preppier look'. It's part of a lineage of 'careful artisanal craftsmen' and is something very modern in terms of sustainability and practicality, with a romantic element.

Autumn/Winter 2012/13 © Mark McNairy

Help with the definition is best found by looking at the brands in the book, from Albam to Tellason, brands from all corners of the world. All have roots in heritage, tradition, quality and, importantly, in vintage clothes and styling. Naturally, there are British brands here, including Albam, Folk, Grenson Shoes, Nigel Cabourn and Universal Works.

© Nigel Cabourn

Inevitably, there are many labels that you won't find here. The authors seem apologetic about this, but some brands and their PR companies didn't reply to their approaches (I know the problem), others are not independent, or have simply copied a trend, or are just too large. The omissions don't matter; the book is a successful look at an important element of modern men's style. 

Nigel Cabourn’s vintage shoe collection © Nigel Cabourn 

The brands are described in reviews or interviews and the book also contains contributions on diverse subjects including street style photography, Japanese menswear and blogging. The images are good quality and capture well the spirit of each brand.

I'd highly recommend it as a good read and browse to anyone interested in menswear, however the word is defined. Contemporary Menswear, by Steven Vogel, Nicholas Schonberger and Calum Gordon, published by Thames & Hudson 20 October 2014.

A vintage Filson’s hunting jacket © Filson