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XO Grey Fox

Recreating the look: The Twentieth Century Explorer

Tuesday, 29 December 2015

I said I'd be taking time off from the blog over Christmas and New Year but, as I was leafing through images of exploration from the last century, I couldn't resist putting this one together for you.

Near my seat in the chapel at school was a plaque commemorating an old boy, Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine, who disappeared alongside George Mallory during their attempt to climb Everest in 1924. 

Irvine (left) with Mallory

Whether they reached the summit is unknown, but their courage lives on. Other famous men such as Shackleton, Scott, Hillary and those who went with them on their expeditions throughout the last century stare out at us here from gritty images recording their skill and determination.


Their look has influenced twenty first century man. Walk around the trendier areas of our cities and you'll see men dressed for arctic exploration. Massive beards, heavy brushed cotton tartan (plaid) shirts, down jackets, chunky boots and wool hats are de rigueur in many a coffee shop.

Behind the magnificent facial hair, worn so ironically by today's hipster, is an unconscious desire to display the unruffled cool of the nineteenth and twentieth century explorer, for whom bravery, team effort and success were all important. There's also a love for the traditional clothing of early explorers which was based on the clothes worn by outdoor workers such as sailors, fishermen and hunters.


These early twentieth century adventurers wore clothes which were barely adequate as protection against the elements in comparison with modern expedition wear. I spend much time on the fells of Cumbria and, when tackling a challenging walk in poor weather, wear modern walking gear. Proper wind and rain proofing, adequate insulation and light weight are essentials in extreme conditions. However, when things are less severe, I prefer to wear the wool jumpers, tweed, waxed cloths and Ventile jackets of the early explorer. Breathable, quiet, sober and stylish.

On the fells. I'm wearing vintage Norwegian jumper, Clarke's Craghoppers tweed breeches & Tootal scarf. Bag Millican.

I find natural materials more comfortable and low key than the noisy, harshly coloured, sweaty fabrics of modern climbing wear. So, where can you find the explorer look? Here are some ideas.

Shirt: Portuguese Flannel, scarf: Fraser Knitwear, Tweed jacket: Gloverall (details below)

Clockwise from top left: Tom Smarte hat, Po-Zu Sequoia boots, Gloverall tweed jacket & Fraser Fair Isle scarf,
Private White VC Lowry reversible mac, Cordings rubberised cotton mac (details below)

From top left: Shackleton Clothing Co Norwegian sweater, Crystal Knitwear submariner's roll neck jumper,
Leith Shetland jumper (details below)

Clockwise from top left: Shackleton x Cheaney Boss boots, Shackleton 'Tom Crean' beanie, English Utopia
tweed shooting coat, Tombags duffel bag (details below)

Clockwise from top left: Antarctic parka Nigel Cabourn, Classic Alpine Smock from Lancashire Pike Clothing,
vintage wooden ice axe eBay (details below)

From left: Chocolate corduroy trousers from Spoke, Fair Isle beanie from K-Knit, Mallory jacket from Nigel Cabourn

Bespoke hand-made Fair Isle sweater from Mati Ventrillon, Shetland Islands

Suppliers: (please mention Grey Fox Blog when contacting suppliers)
Tom Smarte Hats
Po-Zu ethical and sustainable footwear
Gloverall
Fraser Knitwear
Private White VC
Cordings
Shackleton Clothing
Crystal Knitwear
Leith Clothing
English Utopia
Tombag
Nigel Cabourn
Lancashire Pike Clothing
Spoke London Trousers
K-Knit knitwear
Mati Ventrillon (note that at the time of writing her order book for bespoke Fair Isle sweaters is closed due to volume of orders, try also Shetland Collection)
Millican bags
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Labels: exploration, Recreating the Look

3 comments

  1. Snapper30 December 2015 at 06:03

    Grey Fox,

    Another interesting piece - thank you.

    Regarding the old explorers have you read "Great British Adventurers" by Nicholas Storey?. He details the lives and exploits of some of the men and women who contributed the history of this land formally known as Great Britain.

    You may well know of him through his other books about the history of..."Men's Fashion"....."Men's Etiquette"....and "Men's Accessories"

    All very good reads.

    Best regards,
    Snapper

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  2. Anonymous30 December 2015 at 07:57

    Dear Grey Fox,

    Great picture on the fells. Would welcome any blog in the new year sometime on your new companion as I remember the post with the last ever photo taken of your chocolate labradar as he set out on his final walk. I'm glad to see a new dog by your side.
    I really like those Clarke's Craghoppers too, time perhaps for me to get some tweed breeks in the sale

    Great post once again

    Kind regards

    Will Harris

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  3. Grey Fox1 January 2016 at 12:39

    Hi Snapper - many thanks, I don't know that book and will look it up now. Happy New Year.

    Thanks also to you, Will, for the lovely memory of my previous lab, Cocoa. As you say, I posted the last ever image of him just a few minutes before he died among the beauty of the fells. Harry is a yellow lab who joined us 18 months after Cocoa. He's a rescue; at the age of one we were his third family. He's a total delight - a remarkably intelligent dog with a wicked sense of humour. If you follow me on Instagram you will find more of his adventures recorded there.

    Happy New Year to all.

    GF

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