A Visit to Johnston of Elgin's Hawick Knitwear Factory

I've been privileged to visit Johnston of Elgin's mill in Elgin, where bales of wool and cashmere are dyed, spun and woven into cloth, but only recently did I have the chance to visit their knitwear mill in Hawick in the Scottish Borders. While there I also had a close look at their new collections for this autumn/winter and beyond.

Johnstons of Elgin, Hawick. I'm standing by one of the older but highly efficient knitting machines

I'm sure many of you will be clear about the difference between weaving (as done in Elgin) and knitting (Hawick), but it only became clear to me in the early days of writing this blog that knitting is forming a garment by looping together yarns of wool (or other material) while weaving consists of interlacing a yarn running left to right (the weft) with a yarn running at right  angles to the weft (the warp). Originally done by hand, there are now sophisticated looms and knitting machines that make the finest cloths and clothing reliably and relatively quickly (neither process is lightning fast).

The knitwear that is produced in Hawick is principally cashmere, the fur of a goat that is collected by combing the animal (unlike wool which is gathered by cutting the fleece from the sheep, allowing it to grow again for the next year). Lambswool, merino and silk are also used. 

Computer design

The mill is a mix of the very high tech and the more traditional. As is so often the case in clothing manufacture, the solid engineering of machines first designed in Victorian times is so reliable and effective that many of the machines at Hawick would be recognised by a nineteenth century engineer - why improve what reliably produces high quality knitting? On the other hand, modern, computer controlled machines are also used to produce seamless knitwear from extremely fine gauge fibres of cashmere. Designs are made on computers which then control the machines enabling them to create the many patterns (such as cable knit or herringbone) and colours in a knitwear product.

While there I saw some of the AW17 collection and tried some of their superfine 30 gauge knitwear. Knitted seamlessly, these are the finest knitted garments and are light, soft and extremely fine to the touch. The cashmere is soft and thick, quite unlike the cheap and think cashmere knitwear sold cheaply on the high street. When I showed an image of one of Johnston of Elgin's jumpers on Instagram one follower commented that they were till wearing one they bought ten years ago; it hadn't pilled or worn. That quality makes their products value for money.

Trying some of the AW17 knitwear collection

I've talked about the superb AW17 collection before here on the blog. Johnston's first designed collection makes full use of their manufacturing and design skills that have so far been used by some of the greatest names of international fashion and design. I believe they are on to a winner with these collections, designed by Alan Scott and, having seen glimpses of what's coming next year as they develop the collections for SS18 and AW18, I have every confidence they will do very well.

The mill at Hawick is a pleasure to visit. There a superb shop and a cafe/restaurant that sells the best local cooking and products and, as ever, the people working in the mill make it what it is. Pride, skill and a desire to communicate their excitement at what they do is seen everywhere. See Johnstons of Elgin.

This is a collaboration with Johnstons of Elgin who I'd like to thank for their hospitality when I visited Hawick at their expense.