A Visit to Johnston of Elgin's Hawick Knitwear Factory

I've been privileged to visit Johnston of Elgin's mill in Elgin, where bales of wool and cashmere are dyed, spun and woven into cloth, but only recently did I have the chance to visit their knitwear mill in Hawick in the Scottish Borders. While there I also had a close look at their new collections for this autumn/winter and beyond.

Johnstons of Elgin, Hawick. I'm standing by one of the older but highly efficient knitting machines

I'm sure many of you will be clear about the difference between weaving (as done in Elgin) and knitting (Hawick), but it only became clear to me in the early days of writing this blog that knitting is forming a garment by looping together yarns of wool (or other material) while weaving consists of interlacing a yarn running left to right (the weft) with a yarn running at right  angles to the weft (the warp). Originally done by hand, there are now sophisticated looms and knitting machines that make the finest cloths and clothing reliably and relatively quickly (neither process is lightning fast).

The knitwear that is produced in Hawick is principally cashmere, the fur of a goat that is collected by combing the animal (unlike wool which is gathered by cutting the fleece from the sheep, allowing it to grow again for the next year). Lambswool, merino and silk are also used. 

Computer design

The mill is a mix of the very high tech and the more traditional. As is so often the case in clothing manufacture, the solid engineering of machines first designed in Victorian times is so reliable and effective that many of the machines at Hawick would be recognised by a nineteenth century engineer - why improve what reliably produces high quality knitting? On the other hand, modern, computer controlled machines are also used to produce seamless knitwear from extremely fine gauge fibres of cashmere. Designs are made on computers which then control the machines enabling them to create the many patterns (such as cable knit or herringbone) and colours in a knitwear product.

While there I saw some of the AW17 collection and tried some of their superfine 30 gauge knitwear. Knitted seamlessly, these are the finest knitted garments and are light, soft and extremely fine to the touch. The cashmere is soft and thick, quite unlike the cheap and think cashmere knitwear sold cheaply on the high street. When I showed an image of one of Johnston of Elgin's jumpers on Instagram one follower commented that they were till wearing one they bought ten years ago; it hadn't pilled or worn. That quality makes their products value for money.

Trying some of the AW17 knitwear collection

I've talked about the superb AW17 collection before here on the blog. Johnston's first designed collection makes full use of their manufacturing and design skills that have so far been used by some of the greatest names of international fashion and design. I believe they are on to a winner with these collections, designed by Alan Scott and, having seen glimpses of what's coming next year as they develop the collections for SS18 and AW18, I have every confidence they will do very well.

The mill at Hawick is a pleasure to visit. There a superb shop and a cafe/restaurant that sells the best local cooking and products and, as ever, the people working in the mill make it what it is. Pride, skill and a desire to communicate their excitement at what they do is seen everywhere. See Johnstons of Elgin.

This is a collaboration with Johnstons of Elgin who I'd like to thank for their hospitality when I visited Hawick at their expense.

Johnstons of Elgin AW17: A Great British Company Builds on its Design & Manufacturing Skills

Johnstons of Elgin is one of Great Britain's greatest clothing and cloth manufacturers. With a mill in Elgin and a knitwear factory in Hawick in the Scottish Borders, they modestly design, innovate and manufacture for some of the greatest and best known international couture and fashion design houses. Unusually, they manufacture vertically: that is, their factories process raw materials right through to finished product. Needless to say, they play a vital role in the two Scottish towns where they operate.

Johnstons of Elgin - image Grey Fox

I've been following this company for a couple of years now and have been much impressed by what they do, the passion and skills of their employees and the breathtaking quality of what they produce. I will follow the Johnstons journey over the next few years as this is a British business to be proud of and to support. In an uncertain Brexit future, we will need the skills and quality of companies like this to consolidate this country's economic future.

I describe Johnstons as operating 'modestly' because, unlike so many of their designer and fashion clients, they're not well-known to the general public. However, they've now taken the decision to show their skills to the wider world under their own name. Early last year they appointed Alan Scott as Creative Director to build on this unparalleled design and manufacturing heritage to produce the highest quality fashion products. Their AW17 collections for men and women were launched late last year and will, I hope, be the start of something special for Johnstons.

Here are some of Alan Scott's superb sketches of the collection:

Heritage

The collection centres on four themes: Natural Undyed, Cathedral, Heritage and Super Luxe. The first uses the warm browns, creams and greys of undyed cashmere and vicuna. The second takes design elements from Elgin Cathedral and its textures, patterns and stained glass. The third celebrates the 220 year history of the company by drawing on archive materials. The last records the very contemporary and technical nature of Johnstons' skills, with metallic yarns and creative effects. These themes apply to both men's and womenswear.

Starting fairly modestly, Alan Scott has great ambitions for the collection and the company. When I, in an overpowering fit of enthusiasm, suggested that Johnstons could become a Scottish (British) Brunello Cucinelli, a company whose products are a byword for off-the-peg quality tempered by a socially responsible approach to the world around it, he didn't entirely disagree. I admire this ambition and wish them well.

Cathedral

Super Luxe

I saw the AW17 menswear collection in Florence recently. The sumptuousness of the fabrics and the beautiful hand-finished tailoring and construction make this menswear that is of the highest quality. Johnstons strive to achieve ever finer finishes, using, for example, an extract of crustacean shells to allow them to spin cashmere yarn of such incredible fineness that it would otherwise break, producing astonishingly light knitwear for summer and luxury uses.

From left to right clockwise: Natural Undyed, Heritage, Cathedral, Super Luxe

The collection will be available later this year and will be built on in following years. There is much to come from Johnstons of Elgin. I hope that consumers here in the UK will support them with the same enthusiasm that they receive from consumers abroad. Buy British and be proud. See Johnstons of Elgin.

Johnstons of Elgin opens a store in New Bond Street

Johnstons of Elgin has been one of my favourite brands since I visited their mill in Elgin just over a year ago although I've yet to see their Hawick factory, where their cashmere knitwear is made.

 The Johnstons mill in Elgin

Here is a brand that has quietly been going about its business for over 200 years. Its design and manufacturing expertise is tapped into by some of the largest and most respected fashion houses around the world, something Johnstons doesn't talk about from both modesty and a desire to protect confidentiality of these renowned clients.

Outside the new store in Bond Street

The shop is opened by suitably-clad celebrities

Knowing something about the many pies they have had a finger in makes me proud to have had the chance to work with them on the opening of their new store in New Bond Street, London. Here you can buy their own products, mainly cashmere, made to the high standards that have drawn such attention from around the world. As so often with the best British brands, they are under-appreciated at home, but popular with consumers in the Far East, USA and elsewhere around the globe.

Inside the menswear section of the store

Having a London presence of their own allows British consumers to get to know this wonderful business and their high quality products, many of which I've been able to test out over the last few weeks. Cashmere of such richness and softness that make me wonder why I ever bought that cheap and thin stuff sold cheaply elsewhere, Johnston of Elgin's cashmere is the real thing in terms of quality and durability. Woven into cloth, it makes superb jackets which are a very luxurious and soft alternative to wool.

The herringbone-pattern runner and a cashmere Donegal tweed jacket and cashmere roll neck

Johnstons of Elgin jacket and cashmere cardigan

The shop is beautifully designed, with a 12 metre-long herringbone-pattern runner, as if from a loom, leading you from the door and downstairs to the menswear section. The design takes many elements from the mills in Elgin and Hawick. A large range of coloured knitwear provides a welcome relief from the rather monochrome appearance of many menswear stores in London as greys, soft blues, black and white have dominate the male palette the last few seasons.

Visit the Johnstons of Elgin store at 77, New Bond Street, London, W1S 1RY - see their website.

My visit to the Elgin mill is here.

Friday Favourites: Johnstons of Elgin knitwear for spring & Bedroom Athletics slippers

Johnstons of Elgin

From Johnstons of Elgin comes Scottish high quality knitwear and these two jumpers are ideal for those chiller days on spring and summer.

On the left: a slim-fit round-neck jacquard jumper, £195. On the right: cashmere cable-knit round-neck jumper, £245. From Johnstons of Elgin.

Bedroom Athletics

From the wonderfully (and promisingly) named Bedroom Athletics comes a range of loungewear and slippers. They offered me a pair of their men's Harris Tweed moccasins. Made in a variety of patterns and colours of the Scottish tweed which is hand-woven on Harris, they are comfortable and stylish; not at all 'fluffy-slipperish', if you know what I mean. For the man who likes his slippers to have a dash of testosterone. £60 from Bedroom Athletics.

Bedroom Athletic Edward - Harris Tweed moccasin slippers (dog hairs extra)

Crisp black and white

I visited tailor Susannah Hall shortly after London Collections:Men. She showed me bunches of beautiful fabrics from Johnstons of Elgin which contained one of my favourites, a Prince of Wales, or Glen check. I also saw a limited edition black knitted silk tie, specially made by Augustus Hare. Inspired by the many monochrome geometric checks on display at LC:M, we put together this image of black and white crispness. 

Just imagine yourself in the check suit with this shirt and tie and a pair of smart, Northampton-made shiny black Oxford shoes. I'm sorely tempted.

Shirt, made in the UK, from Susannah Hall (£95).
Prince of Wales check suit fabric, made in Scotland by Johnstons of Elgin (for tailoring prices contact Susannah Hall).
Knitted silk tie made in Italy, by Augustus Hare  (Limited edition £70 at Susannah Hall).

E Tautz - gritty grey and Terry Street inspiration for AW15

A paper handed out at the E.Tautz show at London Collections:Men earlier this month featured extracts from Douglas Dunn's poem, Terry Street and contained grainy black and white images of factory workers from the mid-twentieth century in the context of a Northern industrial town (Hull?) with back to backs, murky mists, grim canals and distant smoky chimneys.

Talking of the men who live and work in Terry Street, part of the poem reads:   

They are the individualists of our time, 

They know no fashions, copy nothing but their minds, 

They long ago gave up looking in mirrors. 

It's interesting how Patrick Grant of E. Tautz has arrived at a collection for autumn/winter '15 that looks back at a menswear style prevalent in the middle of the last century, when few men were interested in fashion. Yet most men were then proud of how they looked, something that has now been lost. From a time when road and factory workers would wear ties, jackets or suits for work, we now have men caring little for how they look, even in work and formal situations - despite the relative cheapness of clothing now.

So E- Tautz has arrived at a style that looks back at the grey reality of a hard industrial life and reflects that impression in the monochrome nature of the clothing. To cement this link with the past, the collection is made in the UK, as were most clothes before later in the last century. Gorgeous tweeds and flannels in charcoal, dark blue, silver, grey, bottle green, white, black - Donegal, herringbone, Urqhart check - many made at Johnstons of Elgin. 

The impression was of  cloths, fabrics, tailoring of the highest quality. The cuts were generous, again reflecting menswear styles of most of the last century. Whether or not you'd wear such styles, the look was one to inspire, maybe toning down its monochrome nature with flashes of brighter colour in knitwear and accessories. It will certainly encourage me to dig out my grey trousers, white shirts and herringbone tweeds. For me, this was one of the most inspirational shows at LC:M.

I suspect we'll be seeing wider trousers on the high street in the not-too-distant future, so we're looking at what's coming soon in these images of the E. Tautz show.

At the risk of repeating myself, my one concern about this wonderful show was the complete lack of grey hairs on the models. How well a few gritty older faces would have fitted! Is the aim is to sell only to the younger man and exclude the older man from these wonderful clothes? I doubt it, but I still struggle to understand what the menswear fashion industry is up to here: excluding a huge and affluent demographic seems senseless. Older men should be wearing gorgeous clothes like these - and will do so with very little encouragement.

See E. Tautz and visit the store in Duke Street, London W1.

Johnstons of Elgin: the best of British manufacture since 1797

After visiting Johnstons of Elgin I came away fired up with the creativity and skills that go to make British manufacture. We're not good at appreciating the treasures made here in the UK, but if consumers had the opportunity to visit a factory like that in Elgin, they'd be buying British tomorrow.

Johnstons of Elgin - the site of their original factory from 1797 - all images Grey Fox

For over 200 years Johnstons have been weaving wool on the banks of the River Lossie in Elgin, making a variety of products, from cashmere and vicuña scarves to beautiful estate tweeds. Their knitwear is made much further south, in Hawick in the borders.

The wool store

Tucked away about seventy five minutes drive north west of Aberdeen, Elgin is in an area of Scotland that benefits from clean water, flowing rivers and soft lowland scenery. The features that brought mills to the area (water to clean wool and to power looms) also brought the great Speyside whisky distilleries; but unfortunately there wasn't time to visit both.

Dying the wool

The factory is a fascinating mix of tradition and technology as the wool is prepared from raw material to finished cloth. Many of the looms and carding and spinning machines contain parts that would have been recognisable in Victorian times, yet they work away alongside those using laser technology. Teasels are still used in the cashmere-weaving process to achieve a soft finish. Here it's a question of recognising what works and not changing for change's sake.

Spinning

Two parts of the visit stood out for me. Firstly, speaking to the design staff brought it home to me what high esteem Johnstons is held in internationally by the world of high fashion. Household names come to Johnstons to collaborate and to take advantage of their outstanding manufacturing and design skills.

Menswear from Johnstons of Elgin

Johnstons are understandably quiet about their contacts and collaborations, but their recent work with Burberry is a matter of public record and their involvement in developing the monogrammed poncho that rocked the catwalks for AW14 is well-known. To see British design and manufacture having such status on the world stage is gratifying to say the least

Weaving tweed

The second highlight for me was their archive. A room full of beautifully-bound books containing samples of tweeds and woollen fabrics from the nineteenth century. There to provide inspiration to modern designers, the collection is breathtaking in its range. I'd love to get in there and design a range of Grey Fox tweeds.

The factory shop is full of their products, tweeds, knits and home wear, gorgeous rugs and cushions. The tea shop rounds off a fascinating visit and leaves me full not only of cake, but of hope for the future of British manufacturing.

See Johnstons of Elgin for more information or to buy.

The people, without whom the looms would be silent

The archive

Nineteenth century tweeds in the archive

Brook Taverner - lots of classic British-made fabrics tweeds

Brook Taverner hit my consciousness only relatively recently. Quite why, I'm not sure; they've been around for 100 years and have been selling online for seven years. They sell classic men's clothes, many made from British-made fabrics and tweeds. The brochure is full of well-known names like Harris tweed, Abraham Moon, Reid & Taylor of Scotland and Johnstons of Elgin. To add to the feeling of quality, merino, cashmere and the finest cotton are used for many of the garments.

My love of tweed is obvious to anyone who has browsed this blog. Brook Taverner use this fabric for a wide range of coats, jackets, waistcoats, luggage and a rather nice suit (we should all wear more tweed suits, and turn down the heating if necessary). Colours and patterns range from plain to checks which blend all the beautiful outdoor colours that we expect of tweed.

I would wear the tweed jackets with jeans, but a wide choice of trousers - cords, cotton and wool mix - are also on offer. Brogues and other footwear from Northamptonshire manufacturers have been carefully selected to match the other garments.

The cuts look fairly classic, so you won't find any Topman-style extremes of style here. Here are some of the items I would select. See their website for more. At present everything (except sale items) is 50% off.