One Suit, Six Styles: The Adaptable Suit - A Feature with Sarah Gilfillan

Some of you may remember a feature here called 'One jacket, Five Styles' (here) in which my friend and ace menswear personal stylist, Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab, found five ways for a man to wear a grey tweed jacket. The idea was to help you revive a forgotten or under-appreciated item in your wardrobe by finding additional uses for it. It turned out to be one of the most-read features in the history of the blog, showing how men like to find new ways to style what they own. 

We've now done the same for the humble suit. Many men see the suit as a costume for work or formal events. It can be much more than this, as we show you here. There are many ways to wear a suit; we've chosen six. We've used a made-to-measure suit by Artefact London (see my feature here) but almost any suit, from pinstripe to plain grey, summer or winter-weight, could be used in this adaptable way

As ever, this wouldn't have been possible without Sarah's vision and skill. If your wardrobe and style need a make-over you wouldn't do better than to retain her skills (contact details below). I hand you over to Sarah to describe each look in her own words:

Denim look

Here we've got a double denim look: some might think that a bit "daring" for the older man, but it works well on David and provides a great neutral canvas for the suit jacket. The Prince of Wales check has a pale blue tone running through it so it goes well with blue denim, and we’ve kept the rest of the look quite smart and put together so it doesn’t look like he’s trying too hard. 

The brown suede shoes are smart enough to balance out the formality of the jacket and we chose burgundy socks (not shown) to add a subtle touch of colour. 

Greens

We've gone for some serious pattern mixing here! David is sporting four different patterns, no less! The reason I think this looks good is because of the contrasts, so your eye doesn't have to work too hard figuring it out what's what. The contrasts are obtained by mixing the checked pattern of the jacket, which is large but subtle with the checked pattern of the shirt which is small but bold. This ensures that they’re not fighting against each. 

When the tie is thrown into the mix it echoes the colour of the shirt and has a widely spaced pattern so it doesn’t look too busy against the others. The pocket square continues with the green colour and the orange edging picks up on the tan of the shoes, thus giving a harmonious look despite our riotous pattern mixing!

Purple sweater

The style of this cashmere sweater is quite sleek and not too “hand-knitted” or rustic looking so it doesn’t look incongruous when mixed with suit trousers. The soft muted purple tones in nicely with the grey, neither of them shouting too loudly over the other, and these soft tones are also flattering to David's own colouring and don't overpower him.

We wanted to go for a smart/casual look, so we opted for a chambray shirt and pebbled leather brogues which bridge the gap between smart and casual. David wears maroon socks (not shown) which are in the same family of colours as the jumper and tone in nicely with the shoes.

White shirt and tie

With this look we wanted to obtain a smart, classic feel. A crisp white shirt will always look smarter when mixed with a darker tie as the colours are contrasting which adds a layer of formality.

Notice how David’s tie has the perfect dimple in it?! It’s these small details that make the difference and will elevate your style to Grey Fox levels! The tie has hints of blue in it which pick up on the blue running through the suit (and the lining colour) and it also has a dark brown which brings in the brown of the shoes. The pocket square is in very similar colours but remember matching them exactly is a big sartorial no-no! The London Sock Company are experts on producing understated socks like these which are not shouty but still make your outfit look more thought out than a plain grey pair.

Light chinos

Doesn't Grey Fox looks as fresh as an ice-cream on a summer’s day in this outfit?! Many men forget about accessories as tools to upgrade their outfits and view them as purely functional objects, having just one belt, one scarf etc in their wardrobes. But you can see how much of a difference the accessories make here can’t you, and it’s not illegal to have more than one of each thing in your wardrobe!

The basic outfit of blue striped shirt, grey check jacket and stone chinos would look fine on their own but a touch boring. With the addition of the pink knitted tie, pocket square and bright socks it’s instantly brought to life. Also notice how the striped shirt has a collar pin which adds a point of difference to it. 

Finished off with tan suede shoes; perfect for summer, the accessories are the things that keep this look really crisp and modern.

Navy blazer

Every man needs a navy blazer in his wardrobe and we’ve gone for an updated twist on the timeless and classic outfit of navy blazer, grey trousers and pale blue shirt. The jacket we chose to go with the suit trousers is unstructured, with patch pockets giving it an informal, up to date look. We swapped a formal pale blue shirt for a more casual chambray one and went for colourful pocket square and socks to give it a Spring-like feel. 

A pair of tan brogues is another must for a man’s wardrobe and they work brilliantly with formal trousers, jeans and pretty much everything in between so are a useful bit of kit to own.

Acknowledgments by Grey Fox

Suit made to measure from Artefact London. Other items are my own and, as this is an unsponsored post, I've not got the energy to list them all. Do get in touch if you need any information.

With many thanks to Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab. There's little about men's style that Sarah doesn't know. I've learned much from her and I urge you to contact her for her personal and wardrobe styling services.   

How to buy a suit that fits: featuring a Marks & Spencer suit

We buy suits to show ourselves off to our best advantage in our work, social or casual lives. Unless the suit we buy fits, we have wasted our money. Unfortunately many are bought without consideration of proper fit, so, in collaboration with Marks & Spencer, I've put together a guide to buying a well-fitting suit.

A suit that fits well looks and feels good - suit Autograph at M&S £199

To achieve the perfect fit you will need to buy a bespoke or made to measure suit. However, by following these guidelines you can buy a well-fitting off-the-peg product. 

The one I wear here costs £199 from Marks & Spencer's Autograph range. Made from soft and beautifully textured pure wool cloth, it's a bit of a bargain. I wouldn't claim the fit to be perfect, it's marginally large across the shoulders and the sleeves are a touch long and full, but the suit is off the peg unaltered and could be mistaken for a more expensive product. 

Buying the well fitting suit:

1. Know your chest, waist and leg length. The advantage of buying in store is that there will (generally) be staff who can advise and measure you. Select your suit on the basis of these measurements. When trying on the suit, stand in a relaxed and natural way.

2. Try on the jacket. It should fit comfortably and snugly across the shoulders; check the arm and body lengths (see below). The shoulder seam should be at the point where your shoulder drops to the upper arm, if the seam hangs beyond the shoulder tip, the shoulders are too large and the jacket will look out of proportion, even appearing to swamp the wearer.

Button the jacket using the middle button of three, or top button of two; never use the bottom button. It should button easily, without being too tight, or so loose that the front flaps around.

The jacket should fit snugly across shoulders and chest, the top of the sleeve at the fall of the shoulder

This jacket length is traditional, but is more elegant than the cropped modern style.
It's nicely waisted in shape. The arm length here is acceptable, if very slightly long (see below)

Ideally sleeve length allows a small amount of shirt cuff to show

3. Try on the trousers which should fit neatly around waist and backside. Too tight is unsightly and uncomfortable, too loose and there is an excess of cloth flapping around. For a traditionally cut suit, the trousers would break (fold slightly) above the shoe. A more modern, slimmer cut, trouser would have minimal break, reaching the very top of the shoe and no further.  The trousers I wear here take a middle course, cut slightly shorter than traditional, but without being as short as an extremely modern style.  

A good leg length. Too long and the whole suit will look ill-fitting

4. You will be very lucky if an off-the-peg suit fits you perfectly. If the suit supplier cannot alter it for you, most high streets have alterations tailors who will adjust leg and sleeve length and waist sizes. Other alterations can be done, to chest, shoulders etc, but are generally more major, expensive and less worthwhile. It's best to try another suit if too many significant alterations are needed. 

5. Wearing the suit. Stay relaxed. Imagine you're wearing jeans and jumper. If you think 'formal' you will look stiff and unnatural. The more you wear a suit, the more you will relax into it and you will look better as a result.

If you're not confident selecting ties and shirts, use a plain white or pale blue shirt, a knitted silk or polka dot tie in a contrasting colour and a pocket square that complements the tie, without matching it. As you get more adventurous, try other combinations. In general the best look will always involve minimal pattern and colour. 

To browse the Marks & Spencer range of suits click here. The ties, shirts, shoes and pocket squares shown are also from M&S.

Relax in your suit, going tieless is fine for smart casual

This feature was prepared in collaboration with Marks & Spencer.

Edit Suits Co: accessible made-to-measure tailoring

Edit Suits Co. are on a mission to make the made-to-measure suit more accessible. They are doing this by combining excellent customer service and quality fabrics with ease of use and reasonable prices. 

They made me a suit to enable me to test these claims. The process couldn't have been easier, as the tailor comes to your office or home. This may initially restrict the choice of cloths, but if this matters to you (it didn't to me; I had a good choice), you can visit them if you need to see an even larger range. Normally the suit will be completed after one or two fittings, but if more are needed, Edit will accommodate that.

The emphasis is on modern cuts and quality construction and materials and the client has very free input as to the style, cut and details. I wanted a fairly classic shape and selected an Italian fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico which has exceeded my expectations, being crisp yet compliant and staying fresh even after train and car trips. The salt and pepper grey gives a good muted textural framework for a variety of shirts and tie colours and designs. 

I wanted a soft shoulder line with full canvas construction, a very slightly shorter than classic jacket and slimmer-cut trousers with turn-ups (I select turn-ups on the assumption that they can be got rid of at a later date if no longer required, whereas they can't be newly altered for later). 

I was hoping for a comfortable suit made from a forgiving cloth; and that is what I've got. Little details like initials embroidered above an inside pocket, a beautiful silk lining and well-made side waist adjusters make for a suit that's a pleasure to own and, at  a price of £599, is very competitive for made-to-measure using this quality of cloth. Prices vary between from £389 to from £979 depending on details and the quality of the cloth you select (they supply either their own house fabrics or from Ermenegildo Zegna, Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry and others). Once measured, the client's size, measurement and preferences remain on file for future orders.

Visit Edit Suits Co. to choose and order. I also had a shirt made and will talk about that in a future post.

Suede Oxford brogues: Cheaney for Mr Porter (no longer available)

Tie: Augustus Hare

Socks: Missoni

Fox tie pin: Vintage

Shirt: Charles Tyrwhitt

Pocket square: Pheres, Italy

With thanks to Jonathan and Rai of Holdall & Co for taking the photos on a visit to IWM in London.

Crisp black and white

I visited tailor Susannah Hall shortly after London Collections:Men. She showed me bunches of beautiful fabrics from Johnstons of Elgin which contained one of my favourites, a Prince of Wales, or Glen check. I also saw a limited edition black knitted silk tie, specially made by Augustus Hare. Inspired by the many monochrome geometric checks on display at LC:M, we put together this image of black and white crispness. 

Just imagine yourself in the check suit with this shirt and tie and a pair of smart, Northampton-made shiny black Oxford shoes. I'm sorely tempted.

Shirt, made in the UK, from Susannah Hall (£95).
Prince of Wales check suit fabric, made in Scotland by Johnstons of Elgin (for tailoring prices contact Susannah Hall).
Knitted silk tie made in Italy, by Augustus Hare  (Limited edition £70 at Susannah Hall).

Vulnerable men get suited & booted with suit swap campaign at House of Fraser

Men in the UK are being asked to surrender their old suits for a good cause. Whether they are a little tighter than they used to be or it’s just time for an upgrade, they can donate their unwanted threads at House of Fraser stores as part of the Suited & Booted campaign. The donated suits will go to vulnerable men, kitting them out in style for job interviews, while customers will receive a £100 voucher to spend in store. 

Upgrade that old suit (image Grey Fox)

Launched in 2012, Suited & Booted is a London-based charity that works with vulnerable, unemployed and low-income men to provide suitable clothing, advice and mentoring for interviews. Men are referred to Suited & Booted by other charitable projects and organisations including, Job Centre Plus, NHS, Careers Development Group, Social Services. Suited & Booted help over 1,000 disadvantaged men each year with clothing, advice and mentoring for interviews. Please visit: www.suitedbootedcentre.org.uk

The Suited & Booted campaign at House of Fraser runs from 18th August to 13th September at all 58 formal wear stores, including outlets. The £100 voucher is redeemable on all full price suits and must be used in store (not redeemable online). See House of Fraser for your nearest store.

Suit inspiration

I like this suit (Sherry Kash), a subtle mix between the modern and the classic. It's images like this that provide ideas and inspiration in the endless search for style.

Suits to die for video - classics for older and younger men

I make no apologies for showing another excellent Mr Porter video. The two checked suits (the brown tweed and Prince of Wales) at the beginning and end of the video are stunning examples of the classic tailoring that is ideal for the older man seeking stylish clothes. See how they are matched with the shirts and ties and worn with quality shoes - great stuff!