In previous features I described how the SuitsGreyFox project came about to collaborate with Johnstons of Elgin on the design and manufacture of a cloth which was then cut and tailored by Savile Row tailors, Dege & Skinner to make a suit. The tailoring process will be described in the next and last post. Here I show how the cloth was manufactured.
The cloth, soft yet durable, is a mix of merino and cashmere. Here, from laying out the warp, through weaving to finishing, you can watch the processes which went into make up the manufacture of the cloth.
The weaving process begins with the laying out the warp. The warp consists of the threads which run vertically from the top to the bottom of the cloth
When the warp is ready it is wound onto a circular beam and transferred to the loom for weaving. Weaving is the introduction of the weft yarn, the thread that runs horizontally across the cloth
Scouring removes the oil applied to protect the fibre during the manufacturing process.
The Finishing process - After scouring and milling, the fabric is dried by passing it over rollers in a tenter machine, before being meticulously pressed.
The tailoring of the suit, pictured below, will be featured in the final post of this feature very soon.
Grey Fox,
ReplyDeleteGreat videos, many thanks. I'm looking forward to details of the suit making process.
What made you chose Dege and Skinner rather than any other tailor on the row?
I'm about to commission another DB suit but I favour six on two rather than your four on one. Also I've toyed with the idea of ventless rather than two side vents. Was that one of your considerations or did you go for vents automatically? You look good in it.
Regards,
Snapper
Thank you snapper.
ReplyDeleteI chose D&G as I had contacts there - I also knew them for their military tailoring, finally, they are one of the past family-owned Savile Row tailors and so are a dying breed.
I discussed the shape of the suit at length with Tristan, the cutter. I wanted to celebrate D&S's military heritage so many of the features originate from that - eg. the button number and placing, the turnback cuffs, the roped shoulders, deep turnups, side vents (more traditional anyway), peak lapels, slim cut to coat etc. I moved away from their pure house style by having the coat cut very slightly shorter for a more contemporary look.
Many thanks - it is a superb suit and I can't recommend D&S and Tristan highly enough - the suit was a result of his input with a few minor tweaks of my own.
G
D&S = Dege & Skinner rather than the Italian, D&G!
ReplyDeleteIndeed Cass D&S not D&G - *shudder*
ReplyDeleteGF