The Search for Style: Coming Soon Here on the Blog

This blog started six years ago to describe my search for style as an older man. With this experience under my belt I want this year, as part of my new direction for the blog, to take a personal look into  the elements of style: what it is, how to recognise it and how we can acquire it - does style have any use or purpose? I hope that the discussion will inform all of us as we look for style, whether we are men in our twenties, thirties, forties, fifties, sixties or beyond.

Searching for style: suit Dege & Skinner from cloth made in collaboration with Johnstons of Elgin

Many of you have been in touch to describe your own searches for style. Each of you has different reasons for your search. Some have always been interested in style; others, like me, started late. In my case it was a response to the failure of brands to market themselves properly to older men. Those of us over 50 are responsible for nearly half of consumer spending. We've worked all our lives and tend to be more affluent on average than younger people. Despite this, brands use young models and aim at the young in trying to sell their wares. This approach just doesn't connect with the older man. One of my aims on the blog is to show brands that older men are interested and will buy their products if they want to sell to them.

I'm interested in some of the puzzles around style. How do some older men look stylish wearing clothes that don't fit/are outrageous/very youthful while most of us look terrible in the same outfits? I can't promise answers but I'll give it a go. I'll be grateful for your thoughts, suggestions, questions, answers too. As ever, the blog is nothing without you, its readers here and on Instagram.

Is this style? Pitti Uomo January 2017 (image Grey Fox)

A search for style takes a positive decision to change, to some extent, your wardrobe, life and appearance. You have to feel some passion about this and this means being certain that style brings some benefits. I've found that it does. Not least are positive comments from friends, family and (best of all) women - but style goes beyond mere vanity and embraces confidence, self-respect and respect for others.

I'll also look at the issue of sustainability. A truly stylish man will always consider the environmental impact of his choices and the welfare of those making his clothes. I'm grateful to a reader for reminding me to include this.

Style is more than skin deep. A man needs inspiration in the form of images, blogs, social media and advertising to help him achieve style; he can't do it on his own as it's a deep and complex formula. Let's break down the elements of this formula over the next few weeks. But please... get in touch and let me have your thoughts. My email.

Follow The Search for Style on this link.

Drake's AW14 - very British design menswear and accessories

I mentioned Drake's in a previous post when I described how a bespoke tie was made for me at their factory in East London. I now want to show you some of their AW14 collection. The superb images below, taken by my Man/Men colleague Jonathan Daniel Pryce, say more than I can. They show only a small selection of the beautiful clothes and accessories available and I suggest you pay a visit to their shop at Clifford Street, London, their factory shop in Haberdasher Street, or go to Drake's website for more information.

Style for the older man: the unstructured jacket & the rise of smart comfortable wear

The rise of British manufacture has revived skills which are bringing shapes and styles to menswear which have roots in a long heritage. Tailoring has long British traditions in producing formal suits, jackets, blazers. These are all structured garments with lining, internal canvas pieces and a construction that makes them formal and shaped in appearance.

Older man style: an unstructured jacket allows me to wear a suit, but feel comfortable, as if in jumper and jeans

But another style of jacket has been revived in the last few years. It's unstructured, unlined or semi-lined, and comfortable, with soft shoulders, patch pockets and even (as mine above) shirt-style cuffs. It's generally cheaper than a tailored jacket because it has its roots in the working coats that used to be turned out for engine drivers, bus conductors, mechanics, road repair and factory workers.

Workers needed to wear a garment that was cheap to produce and allowed freedom of movement while looking reasonably smart (this was a time when men, however humble, still took pride in their appearance). These characteristics are exactly what younger, middle-aged or older men are now looking for in their search for smart but comfortable casual wear.

The rise in popularity of this style coincides with the deformalisation (if that's a word) of menswear. Men now wear suits for both semi-formal and casual wear, encouraged by the comfort that an unstructured jacket brings. I find I now throw on my Oliver Spencer linen/cotton mix suit (pictured above), with its unlined jacket, as readily as I might a cotton jumper and pair of chinos - and I feel just as relaxed. 

Such styles are available from many menswear labels that design and/or manufacture in the UK including -

Old Town
Tender
Private White V.C.
S.E.H. Kelly 
Albam 
Cro'jack
Universal Works
Oliver Spencer and others.

Try them and you'll find a coat jacket that's immediately comfortable. The tailoring won't be as sharp or the fit as snappy as a structured and lined tailored jacket - but that's the strength of a garment that is fuelling the rise in comfortable, smart casual menswear.

Travelling light - what does a mature man of style require for his summer journeys?

Travel light. The older man setting off on his travels doesn't want to be laden down with unnecessary luggage. Here are some ideas for the grey fox setting out unencumbered on a summer journey. For the British gentleman of style, most (but not all) of my selected items are Made in Britain.

All images (except top left) Grey Fox

Essential and useful is a shorts suit. Lightweight and wearable on the beach, the lakeside restaurant or for soaking up culture in the Uffizi. From Dashing Tweeds (30% off in August).

Take a few good quality basic items, suppliers listed below -

Keeping well-manicured is essential before hitting the casino - so here's an air safe manicure set from Czech & Speake which conforms with international hand luggage restrictions. 

And finally, a stylish bag to fit everything in. From Tusting, this Harold Chellington dark blue leather holdall is made in England and, like its owner, can only improve in appearance as it ages -

Suppliers

Dashing Tweeds

Monsieur London (Fair trade straw hat from Ecuador)

Sanders Shoes

Margaret Howell

Age of Reason

Cherchbi

Oliver Peoples

Quba

Tusting

See the relaunched Czech & Speake website.

Style tips for the older man: Sarah Gilfillan advises the shorter-legged man

A Reader Asks.... Dear Grey Fox,

I always have trouble purchasing jeans and trousers [pants for our US readers]. I have short legs and everything I purchase seems to highlight this. Are there jeans or trouser brands that have a slightly higher waist or is there a fashion term that I need to look out for? Any information gratefully received. 

Best wishes 

Bruce 

Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist, shorter than average and here showing how to wear jeans. Image Lee Oliveira

Sarah Gilfillan, stylist, of SartoriaLab replies:

Dear Bruce,

I'm answering your question on behalf of Grey Fox as I'm afraid he has very long legs!

When someone looks at you they literally look you up and down, until they come to any distractions or horizontal lines which draw the eye from side to side. Therefore, in order to make your legs look longer, you need to keep the eye running up and down the leg - preferably from the very top of the waistband to the tips of the toes - with no interruptions. Horizontal lines include stitching details/ pockets/changes in colour/ whiskering or the width of the trousers.

Paul Smith jeans

Here are some ideas on how you can achieve that and what to look for:

Casual 

As you mentioned, choose jeans with a slightly higher waist like these ones: Armani J31, Levi 501, Levi 522, APC, Paul Smith . Look for jeans that are marked high or mid rise and avoid the ones marked low rise. Choose carefully though as you don't want to look like Simon Cowell and some styles can look dated! 

Darker colours in a clean wash ie: not washed-in or "whiskered" will make your legs look longer so choose a dark indigo and also consider ones with dark stitching instead of the more traditional orange that's used on jeans. By avoiding creating a line across the pockets of the jeans and the hems you can gain a precious few centimetres. And never turn your jeans up - this will immediately shorten your legs.

Wear a slim cut style so as not to widen and therefore shorten the appearance of your legs. For the same reason avoid cargo style pants or shorts with bulky side pockets. Make sure you check the back view when trying jeans on too and don't buy any that have very low slung back pockets as this will also visually shorten your legs.

Wear belts that are a similar colour to your trousers not your top and avoid bright contrasting colours or designs in your belts and shoes. On the top half wear shorter length jackets like a short peacoat or a bomber style, and avoid 3/4 length jackets. Tuck in shirts or ensure they're not too long.

APC

Formal wear

A crisp crease down the centre of your trousers will help to create that all important vertical line. Choose slim or straight leg trousers with no turn-ups which are more fashionable as well as more flattering than pleat fronts. Have your trousers tailored to exactly the right length with a single break.

Try and get shoes that have a tiny bit more of a heel and avoid contrast stitching or brogue-ing if possible which will allow for the eye to travel uninterrupted from the top of the waistband to the toe of your shoe. Avoid squared off or very rounded toes and choose a more flattering almond toe. 

Levi 501s

It can look a little weird if you exactly match your shoes to your trousers but if possible avoid too much of a contrast - e.g: wear a grey suit or trousers with black or dark brown shoes instead of tan ones. 

Wear your blazer or suit jacket a little shorter - fashionable at the moment and also helpful to make your legs appear longer. Have fun with your top half instead and bring the attention to this area. If your body is long in comparison with your legs then it will shorten your body if you wear horizontal lines and details such as pocket squares, tie clips and interesting ties like this one.

I hope that helps!

Sarah

See more advice on men's style at Sartoria Lab and read more about Sarah Gilfillan, who contributes regularly to Grey Fox here.

The older man of style: Pip Howeson, tailor and her client Nic Fiddian-Green, sculptor

Pip Howeson is a young tailor whom, despite knowing her for some time, I've only mentioned here in passing. It's too easy for a blogger to be diverted by glossy press releases and look books from major menswear labels, while craftspeople like Pip produce work of exquisite excellence that gives it a value far higher than the mass-produced clothing of high street brands.

Pip's careful work (for men and women) is becoming increasingly recognised and I recently watched her at a fitting with her client, the sculptor Nic Fiddian-Green, who had ordered a tweed coat.

Pip fitting the calico

Pip offers several levels of service; for those involving any custom or bespoke design and measurement, she produces a drawing on paper. After review with the client, the design is scaled up and drawn onto calico which is then cut out and made into a full-size garment without detailing which can be then adjusted to the client's preferences and fit.

This is what is happening in these images of Fiddian-Green, looking rather messiah-like in the calico. Fabric and details were discussed and selected and Pip then made the final coat for the client to try. Images of the fitting, the final coat and of Nic-Fiddian Green's studio and work are shown below.

It was fascinating watching one craftsperson interacting with another; both produce three dimensional works, using different materials of course - and both are true artists. See Pip Howeson's website for more information on her tailoring services.

The fitting process and Pip wearing one of her creations

One of Nic Fiddian-Green's monumental horse sculptures, Horse at Water, can be seen near Marble Arch, London. He explained to me that it was one of the heads that make up the Elgin Marbles displayed at the British Museum that provided the inspiration for his love of horses and sculpture. He has also produced some quite superb drawings of Marrakech by night (see image below) that, for me, captured the whole essence of ancient stones, warm North African nights and the magic and history of that city.

All images above by Grey Fox

The Rake - a magazine for older men of style

The only print men's style magazine that I subscribe to is The Rake. Once only available from Asia at great expense, The Rake is now more readily found in the UK, and at a  lower price than before.

The most obvious attraction is the superb images, often of older men of style. The focus is international with an Asian emphasis, but this is diluted (from a European or US perspective) by the magazine's recognition that menswear is mainly influenced by classic Italian and British styles with their US variations.

At first glance, some of the writing can appear pretentious, but this should be taken as a subtle form of humour and not taken too seriously. The excellence of the information makes it a worthwhile buy; you'll learn a lot about classic and newer menswear labels. These tend to focus on luxury brands and, inevitably, there's a degree of advertorial, but less so than in many men's periodicals.

The Rake is available either in good shops or by subscription from Exquisite Trimmings here - from whom I obtain mine. [Edit January 2015 - please note that I can no longer recommend Exquisite Trimmings as a reliable source of the magazine and I suggest that readers go direct to The Rake for a subscription, click here].

A reader asks - hats, beards and the balding older man

A reader asks (a series in which Grey Fox helps other older men in their search for style).....

Dear Mr Fox, 

Please accept compliments on your excellent blog (including links) which neatly coincides with my intended style. As you have probably already guessed I am a middle aged man who aspires to improve my dress. Currently I spend most of my life in jeans and technical clothing and have realised I need to tidy myself up. I am 59 years old, still fit thanks to a lifetime of cycling and athletics but grey-fine haired round the sides and bald on top as you will see on the photo.

My big problem(s):

1. Given the scarcity of it, I would very much value your opinion on what hairstyle and facial hair (if any) I should adopt. 
2. What style of hat should I consider instead of baseball caps and beanie hats? A strong Yorshire accent has made me wary of wearing flat caps.

The chaps on the Fashionbeans forum have given me some excellent help and advice so far on choosing classic clothing which I am pleased to follow especially as it is consistent with predominantly buying British. A member of that forum put me onto your blog. I very much look forward to your advice. 

Best regards

Andrew

Grey Fox replies.....

Dear Andrew, 

Forgive the delayed reply and thanks for the comments on the blog. 

I take it you have adequate sartorial advice now, so let me address your question about the hair. I’ve written before on the blog for balding men and the advice I gave (having consulted many experts!) was that close-cropped neatly-cut hair is best – very much as you have now. If you want facial hair as well, the same goes, closely cut and neat – however, if you feel a bit more flamboyant the style in the attached image works very well I think – a slightly longer beard. 

Image Alan Paine

As for hats, a beanie or a trilby may be the best options – but I wouldn’t rule out the flat cap simply because you’re from Yorkshire; why not celebrate it? The choice will depend what you’re wearing it with – trilby with suit, jacket and beanie with very informal and sports wear. 

I’m sure you’ve been advised that good fit is absolutely essential – ensure jackets fit across shoulders (go to a tailor for alteration if not), and avoid teen fashions like baggy jeans and t-shirts. You’re lucky in (like me, as a cyclist) having an athletic figure – use it! 

I hope that’s helpful. If I haven’t answered the question, or you have any supplementary, let me know; I’m very happy to help. 

Best wishes 

David

Grey Fox

Grey Fox's previous scribblings on baldness can be found here.

White Hot hair care - for your greying and silver manly locks

Specifically formulated for grey and silver hair for both men and women, White Hot was founded by Jayne Mayled after she allowed her hair to go grey, after many years of using hair dye. Like many women who take the step, she saw it as a positive move and was pleasantly surprised by the positive reaction from friends and family. I thought I'd give their products a try.

Grey Fox, grey locks - and White Hot hair care

I was one of those men for whom products like this mean little, believing that shampoo is shampoo and the cheapest is best. So it was with a little scepticism that I tried Jayne's products. I was sent a box with a variety of tubes and tubs; shampoos, conditioners and a 'shooshing creme' (like a hair gel). The experiment coincided with a decision to allow my hair to grow a little thicker.

Jayne Mayled, founder of White Hot

I have to say that I was converted. The shampoos and conditioners leave my hair feeling very soft and not at all dry, as some products do. The shooshing creme is ideal for my slightly longer and thicker hair, allowing it to be combed into position with the fingers so that it stays there without looking like a greasy hair gel.

The products contain a variety of ingredients, one of which is designed to enhance greys and silvers, which can go a little yellow. Whether it's the products or not, I like the streaky silver, grey, darker effects which my longer locks now display.

For men and women

I'm really pleased with these products, which impress by their simplicity and effectiveness. They are ideal for greying and silver-haired men and I recommend them unreservedly.

White Hot is available to buy at www.whitehothair.co.uk and www.boots.com. Prices start from £12. Join the White Hot community on Facebook (www.facebook.com/WhiteHotHair ) and Twitter @whitehothair.

Supporting Grey Fox Blog

Running this blog costs me well into three figures annually, quite apart from the huge investment of time. I make no money from the blog and, at present, sell no advertising. To maintain independence, I don't ask for anything from the menswear brands I support. After much thought, and at the kind suggestion of a reader, I'm giving readers the opportunity, should they wish to do so, to contribute something towards these costs. 

The last thing I want anyone to feel is an obligation here, but if you wish to do so there are two possibilities -

1. Buy one of the new Age of Reason/Grey Fox collaboration pocket squares. These are made in very limited numbers and Ali of Age of Reason is kindly contributing part of the takings to Grey Fox. See more about the collaboration below in yesterday's post. The squares can be purchased here - Grey Fox in Rust and Grey Fox in Blue.

2. The second option is to donate via Paypal. This can be done here on the Contact page.

Whether you're able to contribute or not, thank you very much for your support of this blog.

The Age of Reason/Grey Fox silk square at the design stage

A reader asks - how do I dress now that I'm past 40? (Part 2)

Image unknown

This continues from my the first part of this post here, where I was responding to a reader's query about how he should dress once past forty.

My reply reflects my own thinking over the 18 months since I started to write this blog. I have no definitive answers, and my thinking is still developing; so ask me this question again in another 18 months and you'll probably have a different answer.

As I said last time, older men see style in binary terms - a choice between either young men's fashions or the shapeless neutrality so often bought by men once past forty. We see nothing in between.

The answer for me is looking for style with a twist. In reality, the older man, choosing carefully, can buy into the younger/fashionable/stylish (whatever term you want to use) end of the market without looking like mutton dressed as lamb. Younger styles tend to be slimmer-fitting and therefore can look better-fitting than the baggy, all-enveloping clothing adopted by many men in later life. Colours and patterns may be bolder, giving interest to the neutral look so often adopted as we reach middle age.

Image The Sartorialist

Here are a few general ideas -

• Make sure clothes fit well. Avoid jackets which are too large over the shoulders or too long in the arm. Find trousers which aren't too baggy around thigh and backside - and are the right length. Use your local tailor to have anything adjusted which isn't quite right. 
• Go for slimmer fits if you can. If your body shape doesn't allow this, make sure the clothes fit closely but comfortably.
• Buy as good quality as you can - I save up most of my buying for the sales. 
• Plan your wardrobe - avoid the impulse buy. Do you really need those pink chinos? What will they go with? When will you wear them?
• Start with basics - a dark suit, blue blazer, summer jacket, chinos, jeans, brogues, suede shoes, casual shoes, a few casual and formal shirts, neutral knitwear. Build from these basics, ensuring that you can interchange without clashing styles or colours, but have a few bright signature pieces (such as a fair Isle jumper or floral shirt, perhaps) to wear with jeans or trousers.

Here are a few of my favourite images, some of which I've used before, to give inspiration.

Image The Sartorialist

Image The Sartorialist

Image Hackett 

Image Catwalking

Oliver Spencer

Richard James

The Sartorialist

Fashion and the older man - Grey Fox gets on his high horse (a grey, of course)

The new journal, Menswear Insight, kindly asked me to write a piece on timeless style for their April 2013 issue. The finished product turned into a gentle handbagging of much of the fashion industry for failing to cater to the needs of the older man.

This view was driven home for me when I spent an hour or two yesterday trying to buy a pair of slim-cut, summer-weight, tailored trousers. I looked everywhere in a major shopping centre (Kingston upon Thames). All I could find was jeans, chinos and the odd pair of trousers which were cut so slim in the calf that I could hardly get them on, let alone off (and I'm slim). I'm hoping that a trip into central London will turn up what I want in Hackett or somewhere similar.

This adventure reinforced my view that there is, on our high streets, a dearth of classical, reasonably-priced yet well-made and stylish clothing suitable for the mature man of style. I talk about that in this article.

Alan Paine SS13 advertising campaign

To read it, see here on the Menswear Insight website, or here in the digital format of the magazine (see page 13). Have a look and see what you think. I'm sure you'll respect my view even if you disagree. I'd be happy to hear from you by e-mail (contact above) or by comment below.

By the way, Menswear Insight is much more than just an industry journal, it's an excellent read for anyone interested in style. I would be ideal for those for whom GQ, Esquire etc, don't hit the spot in terms of mature reporting of menswear fashion and style.

A reader asks - about brogues

A reader e-mailed me recently with this question about brogues (wing-tips) -

Hello Grey Fox,

New reader, newly turned 40, really enjoying the blog!  Some interesting thoughts on there.

Anyhow, I have always liked stout Loake brogues like the Chester so decided to treat myself, however, when I try them on they don't look quite right - it all seems a bit imbalanced in a full length mirror.  I'm tall/slim and favour a slim dark jean.  Is it possible that stout brogues work better with stout frames, or do you think a slightly wider regular cut jean would work better?

BF.

I replied as follows - 

Many thanks for the comments.

I find my Loake Chesters are slimmer and more elegant than many and should be fine with a taller, slimmer frame. It may be that you previously wore even slimmer shoes (Converse maybe?) so it’s a question of getting used to the new look.

I agree that some chunky, Commando-style soled brogues feel and look heavier and chunkier (particularly with slim jeans); but that is part of the look, so I think it’s worth sticking with it. Get somebody to take a photo; I’m sure it’ll look fine.

Best wishes,

 GF.

The reply?

Thanks for the reply.  You are wise indeed - I have lived in converse for the last 5 years!  Time to move on  methinks - James Murphy can get away with sneakers, jeans, black jacket and white shirt forever more but I am bored of it now :)

Thanks again

BF.

The Sartorialist

Grey Fox's Loake Chester brogues